In the search of decent trailer wire

J

Joshbot007

Location
Central PA
I bought a submersible trailer light kit on amazon 2 years ago and the lights work great but the wiring sucks! The wire gets corroded inside and spreads down the whole wire like cancer. Instead of stripping it just rips in half and when it does strip the wire is so corroded that solder won’t stick to it. It seems this poor quality wire is also found at the auto store. Anyone know were to find good quality wire that will last many years or how to pick out good wire vs crappy wire? My lights are fine but the whole trailer needs rewired unfortunately.
 
J

Joshbot007

Location
Central PA
I do but the insulation on this wire is so bad that it cracks in a season and lets water in. I seem to be having super bad luck with trailer wire in the recent years. I want to buy better wire but idk how to differentiate it from the junky stuff
 
J

Joshbot007

Location
Central PA
Jcary85 said:
Get tinned wire. I bought mine from McMaster Carr. I still can’t find a 4 pin connector with tinned wire though. If anyone has found one please post a link!
Click to expand...

Great idea! I have already an account with McMaster Carr too :). Would definitely be interested in a better connector, my current one has corrosion down into it, I don’t even ride in salt water and take the ski out 10ish times a season :mad:
 
augustaf

augustaf

Location
central florida
Yes, please consider using marine grade tinned wiring. Read the propaganda below which I c/ peed - and also consider passing that info on to the good folks at MSD.
Ancor Marine Grade Primary Wire is manufactured from tinned copper stranding for maximum protection against corrosion and electrolysis. Ultra-flexible (Type 3) stranding helps prevent fatigue due to vibration and flexing. Ancor's proprietary premium vinyl insulation stays flexible even in extreme cold (-40° F/ -40° C) and resists salt water, battery acid, oil, gasoline, and ultraviolet radiation. The wire's exclusive insulation is rated at 600 volts, 221° F / 105° C dry and 167° F / 75° C wet, and is engineered to withstand heat and abrasions. Exceeds all UL 1426, US Coast Guard Charter boat (CFR Title 46), and ABYC standards.
 
E350

E350

Site Supporter
Location
Sacramento Delta
I just rewired a flatbed trailer with electric brakes and did what augustaf suggests. When I rewire our jet ski trailers I will also do what augustaf suggests. I like using 12 gauge wire. It is not needed for its electrical capacity. Rather, I use it because it is heavier and thus resists physical abuse better than 14, 16, or 18 gauge wire.

If you are looking for something simpler this is what E-Trailer has. They are a great company to deal with:

https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=Marine+wire&furl=-vw-1-pg-Wiring
 
smokeysevin

smokeysevin

one man with a couch
Location
Houston
Ancor has multi connector tinned wire as an option. Its all in a single insulated package though so for things like running lights or reverse lights it would be tough to add things in series.

On the connections, I prefer solder and adhesive lined heat shrink because of done properly, there is no way for water to wick up the cable and corrode.

I prefer solder vs crimps because I have found that they are less likely to come loose. Just my experience. I will be the first to tell you I probably messed up doing my crimps but after redoing a full harness because of corrosion at joints, I won't do it again.

You have to use adhesive lined heat shrink, the standard stuff can still let water in. Heat it until it shrinks and squeezes some of the melted glue out.


Sean
 
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