Super Jet Installing New Mods

H

Hab

Location
Dubai
This is a Surf ride super jet build, its a 2015 superjet.
I already sent the jetski for reinforcing and what i found weird is its not possible to reinforce the bottom and half the sides of the hull.
I asked why and they told me its plastic and will not benefit reinforcing with carbon fiber and cost you more for no reason.
I took his word and told him to reinforce the top sides where its already fiber glassed reinforced, under the hood lip, all the way in the inner top nose and the handle pole mount bottom and top.

EDIT: Also shortening the stock handlepole 2.5 inches for now

After the reinforcing is done i will install my mods i received today from Blowsion, which include....

Factory Pipe - Yamaha B-Pipe Exhaust Kit
Limited ( THE ONLY MOD THAT IM STILL WAITING FOR TO GET SHIPPED SINCE THEY ARE ALL OUT OF STOCK)


Blowsion Girdled Head Kit

Primer Kit - Mikuni Dual
Flow Control Valve - Pro Series
Blowsion Steering System without Turnplate

Blowsion Shortened Turnplate

Blowsion Handlebars - Blaster & Sport Class

Handle Pole Spring - Yamaha Superjet 1996+

Blowsion Carbon Ride Plate D-CUT - 2008+ Superjet

Solas Yamaha Magnum Pump 144mm

ODI Xtreme Grips Black (130mm)

ODI Aluminum Lock Ring Set

Blowsion Billet Throttle Lever
Hood Strap Kit
Handle Pole Limiting Rope



My question is should i install all these Mods after reinforcing is done or should i wait for the exhaust kit which might take 2 weeks to a month and do it all together?
 
Last edited:
2thelake

2thelake

Location
Mashpee Massachusetts
just bang everything out on the handpole out starting with the shortening of it. i just did mine and it was pretty simple. i used 1/4" 20 stainless steel phillups screws with nylock nuts..(i fogot to put washers on them) we will see what happens. your gonna have to take the old spring out to put that new one in. when i put my pole back in with that bowsion spring i tightened the bolt end too tight by cranking on it with a socket wrench too much and my pole was stiff ( it would stay in any position i moved it to) just back the bolt end out a little bit and then put tighten the other nut when you think the pole is free moving enough......flow control i would wait till the B pipe and idk about that magnum pump cuz i dont have one on my rn sj. you can put the head kit on but you might want to look around the forum for peoples advice on running dual cooling. i still havent figured out dual cooling. it seems like so many things dictate whether you should run dual cooling like if you have a different head, what kind of gas your running, compression on your cylinders, tapping the pump in the right place, getting enough back pressure on the pissers with restrictors...what a headache.
 
H

Hab

Location
Dubai
2thelake said:
just bang everything out on the handpole out starting with the shortening of it. i just did mine and it was pretty simple. i used 1/4" 20 stainless steel phillups screws with nylock nuts..(i fogot to put washers on them) we will see what happens. your gonna have to take the old spring out to put that new one in. when i put my pole back in with that bowsion spring i tightened the bolt end too tight by cranking on it with a socket wrench too much and my pole was stiff ( it would stay in any position i moved it to) just back the bolt end out a little bit and then put tighten the other nut when you think the pole is free moving enough......flow control i would wait till the B pipe and idk about that magnum pump cuz i dont have one on my rn sj. you can put the head kit on but you might want to look around the forum for peoples advice on running dual cooling. i still havent figured out dual cooling. it seems like so many things dictate whether you should run dual cooling like if you have a different head, what kind of gas your running, compression on your cylinders, tapping the pump in the right place, getting enough back pressure on the pissers with restrictors...what a headache.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the informative response, what if i install the spring later after shortening and installing the pole, would it be a hassle?
 
2thelake

2thelake

Location
Mashpee Massachusetts
It's not that big of a hassle if you got two sets of hands. Just unscrew that bolt out of the nut and washer side and then take a flathead and hit it with a mallet against the bolt to drive it out. It might help if the second set of hands messes with the spring with another flathead while you drive it out. Once it's out just put the new spring in and bang the both through it with the mallet with another set of hands messin with the spring with another flat head. Once you line it up with the threads just bang it one more time with the mallet and then use the socket wrench to screw it through the threads
 
Vumad

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
If you use an aftermarket head with the stock pipe, then you are going to need the ada conversion bracket $30 to bolt it together. i dont think ypu need dual cooling with an atermarket head and stock pipe. know that your pipe manifold probably wont come tapped for dual cooling so plan to have that done, or run parallel cooling instead.

I not sure why you would shorten the pole and put it back together without the new spring, but as far as difficulty, you are doing the job twice, except the new spring will have more tension and will be harder whenever you do it.

I dont think you mentioned the steering mod. The new superjets have less steering throw than the old ones. Upgrading it, or i guess reverting it? Will require a bracket and one of the older cables. a friend of mine got the bracket, and it has terrable corrosion resistance, i dont think its annodized, i would stay away From that model, hopefully something new is on the market.
 
Vumad

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
If you run singe cooling to a head with a dual cooling setup, then just tee or wye the 2 lines out of the head to one pisser. They will restrict themselves in that way. Having too much cooling is one thing thats not that big of a deal, but if your lines out are bigger or more numerous than your lines in, you wont have any pressure in the system, so you will get air pockets and hot spots.

If you still have too much waterflow, go back to the stock pisser. Its only about 3mm vs the ada pisser 8mm. That will slow down the flow and let the motor fill up.
 
H

Hab

Location
Dubai
i noticed today i needed to make some holes for the turn plate to be installed to the pole, and also i noticed the big difference with the handle bars i bought compared to the stock ones i have,
the comparison is significant im starting to think i got the wrong handle bars for the ski...
 
Vumad

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Blaster and sport class bars are different than stand ups.

The turn plate depends on what you bpught. Somethong like a umi plate is a direct replacement for stock. The bearing systems have to be bolted on.
 
H

Hab

Location
Dubai
Vumad said:
Blaster and sport class bars are different than stand ups.

The turn plate depends on what you bpught. Somethong like a umi plate is a direct replacement for stock. The bearing systems have to be bolted on.
Click to expand...

SO is it possible to use this handle bar for ski or is it just a waste?
 
Vumad

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Post a picture or the link to the item you purchased. b1 and x2 bars dont work on a stand up. Riser bars are different than sport bars. Sport bars look like they are from a dirt bike. I think 1-1/8" riser bars canwork on both...
 
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