Super Jet Le RN big bore 850 + color change build

[d_moss]

Last year running a ported 701 with R&D dry pipe was fun. But alas I want more. So Blowsion and all their dang catalogs they send you just sit around and temp. So I have since ordered up their 850 sleeves and pistons.

The 98 sj hull i have was painted rather well and was originally built for racing. I guess that's why the hood has flames on it. But I'm not a flamer kind of guy so I wanted to repaint it. I'm leaving the turf on because its mint and I don't want to spend another bill redoing it just to paint under something you will never see.

Stripping the hull sucked.... steering cables are a pita to get out.

I am trying my luck at reinforcing the hull. Mostly because last year at the crystal clear waters of manBear lake Idaho I did a nose stab. Who would have thought that in five feet of water you would hit the rock on the bottom. So that cracked the nose a bit and blistered the inside of the hull.

I did like about 6 layers on the handle pole mount and i don't even know how many on the nose. Plus two strips per side on the deck seems. I wanted to used the 3'' wide stuff because i thought it would be easier to manage and jam in the crack. I'm also using 3:1 epoxy resin from the us composite store. Go ahead pick and make fun of my first reinforcement job (please tell me what I'm doing wrong). I am also at a lot for what to do about the bottom of the inside of the hull. I would like to make it cleaner looking but besides sand paper nothing seems to clean it. This is the first run and I plan on going over the whole sides when this sets up tomorrow with wide cut to fit pieces. Would two layers on the sides be enough?

? as my ski sits it weighs 155.X lbs with all the bottom stuff. Pump/plate/grate/shaft/prop/bearing housing ect. Does this sound about right? or is the hull chuck full of water?

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[d_moss]

I got the cylinder with the sleeves back from the machine shop. I thought I was done porting the cases but now I think I want to do a little more. And of course the cylinder needs a ton of porting . I guess I will leave the exhaust port were it is and not trim it on the top to fit the cylinder. Lower port timing makes for more braps right? It bugs me like that but oh well. If i had it to do over I would have welded up the cylinder a bit with the sleeve out so I could match it smooth.

Like most folks I like prices with stuff. So this is not a cheap motor by any means and if it sucks I will be disappointed.

I traded a dry pipe for the 760 motor so about $400
sleeves $280
Pistons $300
wrist pin bearings $40
machine work $280
gaskets/seals $80

dont have the head yet but thats about $300 ada super bore.

I had all the porting tools so I wont add that in and I also had the resin and glass too. Again If I do it again I could do it cheaper now that I know a few things.

 

[d_moss]

This is what I got done today. I need a new nose piece though So I guess I will be searching for one.

 

[jetpilot08]

I like that blue what kind of paint did you use. I also liked the red too.

 

[d_moss]

It was Dupont, with sealer, color, two coats of clear. It was expesive lol $170 for materials. But my friend sprayed it for close to free, that was much appreciated.

 

[d_moss]

finally got some more parts!

This is a prototype pole mount I will try and make. It will have two holes for adjustment. Since I have never had a lowered pole mount this way I can try both and see it if i can tell a difference. Not sure if I will make it out of AL or SS.

Now i just need my motor back from the powder coater, and an ADA superbore head and cold fusion fat bar turn plate. Then I can pretty much put it together after my new B pipe shows...

 

[MCrider]

nice, good lookin ski man

 

[Pablo]

man, that's a helluva nice paint job. luvin it.

 

[steve-uk]

looks good man, make sure you dont remove that sticker on the back of the pole tho.....

 

[d_moss]

looks good man, make sure you dont remove that sticker on the back of the pole tho.....

lol its still there.

Its extra funny you had it in canada with all the french folks.

 

[Iland Trader]

That is a nice paint combo, Ive always thought a blue/black two tone would look nice.

 

[d_moss]

 

[d_moss]

ada super bore head with seadoo 951 44cc domes thank you nuklear ada was out for a couple months so this gem took a bit to get.

 

[d_moss]

Now with the candy blue

 

[mydixiewrecked]

Sick, love the blue

 

[d_moss]

Port work I did.

I hit the exhaust port with the glass bead blaster and it makes it look so smooth and pretty. I Might do the same for the intake ports. This big sleeve does take away a lot of volume in the intake ports. So I hogged out as much as I had patients for.

 

[crazy4sand]

Nice ski

 

[d_moss]

This is how I ported my b pipe manifold. The head pipes are at the powder coater still. So I will post pics of those later. This is a normal router bit with an 1/8th inch wheel thingy on it. This bit came in a kit that goes from flush to I think 3/4 in 1/8th inch increments with different size wheels. My first manifold i router-ed out small bits at a time. But the second manifold I wasn't scared and just cut the full half inch of the bit in one shot. This makes a near perfect circle and hogs out an 1/8th in by half inch section of material in about 30 seconds. Something a carbide burr would take at least 15 minutes to do. The router bit eats though aluminum like butter and doesn't even get hot. Then I finished the lip out with a normal carbide burr, then sanding twisted barrels. I gasket matched the two ports and just sanded the casting flaws on the insides. I didnt enlarge the tunnels really. The bottle neck is at the flange that needs attention.

 

[d_moss]

Yeah problems! So the pole i bought is an old x metal pole i guess and the hole the cold fusion turn plate bolt goes through is way bigger than the oe style bushings. the hole is about a half inch bigger than the bushings. so i have no idea what bar adapter was previously used and i guess i will either weld the hole shut and re drill or make a bushing.... dumb..

Yeah! more problems! So blowsion is very vague on their big bore pistons and of course give you no real instructions on what you will have to do to get honda cr 500 pistons to work. They just said here are the sleeves, here are the pistons and you will need this spacer plate too.

First problem the cases need to be bored WAY past the sleeves if you want to not modify the pistons. I did not want to separate my cases pay to have them cut more and then find out they need epoxied or the oil groove in the bottom of the transfers is important. so I cut the bottom of the pistons to the same height as stock 760 piston. Makes more sense to me anyways. Luckily there is a groove about a quarter inch from the bottom of the skirt and i used that as a guide line. Cut off wheel and orbital sander they were flat. I left just a hair of the skirt edge to measure the flatness around the skirt. I took a pic and you can see the faint line where the groove is in the bottom of the skirt.

Next problem with the spacer plate at .125 in and two .020 base gaskets and 42cc ada super bore domes (seadoo 951 domes) the pistons hit the inner part of the domes. LAME. so i added two more base gaskets that brought the squish to outer .048in and toward the inner part of the dome to .035 in. Better still to tight. I had the domes cut to the correct angle to fit the piston and took a tiny extra off Squish is now about .065 outter to .067 inner . barely an angle towards the center. The 4 dumb base gaskets are required to get the port timing decent. Blowsion needs to build a thicker spacer plate and possibly raise the intake ports on the sleeves. But yamaha seems to have it wrong in the first place. stock motors dont even let the piston drop all the way out of the way of the exhaust port. or go to the bottom of the intake ports.

two base gaskets and spacer plates

pistons hitting the case

 

[Matt_E]

Well, to be fair - that's the kind of knowledge/know-how you typically pay a motor builder for. Without that, you have to figure it out yourself.