Mag Pumps/Driveline/Trim Questions

9

9tyfiveblaster

Location
floatn around
Hey guys I wanted to put up a post to go through some stuff I have been researching and see if I can learn a little.

So as I have posted in other post I have recently acquired a B1 Blaster and I am going to do a ground up resto on it. I am sorting out the components I want to use for the driveline. As for motor when I do the build it will have a built motor (twin) by one of the top motor builders so it will have good power. I will of course discuss some of the driveline stuff with him including prop. As far as use this will be a lake boat for playing with the occasional running of the buoys.

The boat currently has the one piece Schredmaster intake grate and ride plate on it that I think I will keep on it.

So to start out with lets talk pumps. I will get a mag pump question is size and brand. One thing I don't want to do is any hull mods. I want all bolt on stuff. The best I can tell I can put a 148mm pump in without modding anything. But I can't really find anything that says I should go to a 148mm for any real advantage with any twin short of a 1200 fire breather especially for the lake. Any thoughts on the 144 vs 148 debate?

Then there is Solas vs Scat Trak. It appears most say Solas just deal with the bearing clearance issues during setup and your good to go. So so far I am leaning toward a Solas 144 mag unless the brain trust here can talk me out of it. The Solas is cheaper but if there were and significant advantage the money wouldn't matter.

Next up is the setback. I have acquired a JCRacing 2" pump setback kit that I think I will install. So there is that going in there too. Not sure if it will work with a 148 so more reason to stick with a 144?

Now onto stuff I know nothing about. Pump shoes? Leave it stock. Or put something else in it?

Reduction nozzles and trim? Educate me. Back in the day (long long ago) I remember always wanting trim on my Blaster. Nowadays you guys have trim on all these stand ups for doing flips and such. What kind of trim systems and reduction nozzles are best on Blasters for say running the buoys? Is it needed?

Not to leave out the midshaft. OEM or aftermarket? And the couplers. What seems to be the best?

Basically if you guys could build your perfect driveline from front to back for lake riding and some fun around the buoys what would you use?

Thanks for the input guys!
 
ksarge91

ksarge91

Location
King of Prussia, PA
Talk to your engine builder to figure out powerplant size before deciding on pump size but unless you're building something gnarly you'll be fine with a 144. For messing around on the lake and running some buoys I'd skip the set-back pump, no reason to change to shoe and I'd pass on trim on a blaster unless you have a system laying around.
 
Jhucke

Jhucke

Location
Wisconsin
9tyfiveblaster said:
Well I do have a trim lever does that count as a start:)
Click to expand...

Have you ever ridden a stock hull superjet with trim? It's a total waste of time, pretty much does nothing but stick the nose up a little higher when you jump boat wakes. This enables you to land on your back constantly, just annoying. Rig up a CATS system if you feel like it, otherwise spend trim money on more motor IMO. Others may have different opinions.
 
scottie mac

scottie mac

X-
Skat pumps...... you get what you over pay for. Solas is a great value, but they don’t like high rpm running and eat bearings. I’ve had 5 that ate bearings. And, I would guess that there are very few people who have put together as many pumps as we have over the years. I had two of them clearanced, still ate bearings. Again, most of our riding is WFO going around bouys, not your normal brap, brap, flip, flip stuff that goes on in the freestyle world. I could see how in that scenario, the solas would be much better in terms of longevity.

Size? 140-144mm. My full on race, 8mm pwervalve blasters still ran a 140 set back skat. Unless youa re going to a BIG HP triple, stick to the 140 or 144. 140s aren’t in vogue now, so you might be able to find one on the cheaper end. If not, the 144 will work fine.

Shoe, Chris Haggest has a new pump shoe that opens up the intake tunnel a little on the blaster (one of it’s flaws). He also makes the normal ride plate, sponson, tubbies, etc. Handling is all personal opinion. If you like the shred, stick with it. If not, Haggests’ stuff is usually spot on. That is what I am going to.

Driveshaft, if you end up using a set back pump, your JC 2 inch set back isn’t going to work. The shaft will be too short. Finding non set back 140s is tuff.

Midshaft, stick with stock, they work fine. Just make sure your alignment is correct. Seen many a ski with little to no power eat driveshaft splines because of mis alignment.

Coupler, pick your poison. I always use ADA because Brooks is a friend and he does good work.

Hope this helps. Keep us updated on the build. I love Blaster build threads. Gets me excited to get off my a$$ and work on mine.

Scottie
 
9

9tyfiveblaster

Location
floatn around
scottie mac said:
Skat pumps...... you get what you over pay for. Solas is a great value, but they don’t like high rpm running and eat bearings. I’ve had 5 that ate bearings. And, I would guess that there are very few people who have put together as many pumps as we have over the years. I had two of them clearanced, still ate bearings. Again, most of our riding is WFO going around bouys, not your normal brap, brap, flip, flip stuff that goes on in the freestyle world. I could see how in that scenario, the solas would be much better in terms of longevity.

Size? 140-144mm. My full on race, 8mm pwervalve blasters still ran a 140 set back skat. Unless youa re going to a BIG HP triple, stick to the 140 or 144. 140s aren’t in vogue now, so you might be able to find one on the cheaper end. If not, the 144 will work fine.

Shoe, Chris Haggest has a new pump shoe that opens up the intake tunnel a little on the blaster (one of it’s flaws). He also makes the normal ride plate, sponson, tubbies, etc. Handling is all personal opinion. If you like the shred, stick with it. If not, Haggests’ stuff is usually spot on. That is what I am going to.

Driveshaft, if you end up using a set back pump, your JC 2 inch set back isn’t going to work. The shaft will be too short. Finding non set back 140s is tuff.

Midshaft, stick with stock, they work fine. Just make sure your alignment is correct. Seen many a ski with little to no power eat driveshaft splines because of mis alignment.

Coupler, pick your poison. I always use ADA because Brooks is a friend and he does good work.

Hope this helps. Keep us updated on the build. I love Blaster build threads. Gets me excited to get off my a$$ and work on mine.

Scottie
Click to expand...


Thanks Scottie for the input.

So it sounds like a setback Skat Track 144 is the way to go and sell the JC 2 inch setback?

On the pump shoe you mention Chris Haggest? Who is this? Where do I find this shoe? No fiberglass mods to install it I assume?

What about reduction nozzles, trim etc? What are your thoughts on that stuff?

I plan to do a build thread this fall. Just trying to figure out what I want and get everything. Thanks for the help!
 
scottie mac

scottie mac

X-
You can run the JC set back, you would just need to have a driveshaft made. It would essentially be a 3 niche set back (2 with the JC kit and 1 with the set back pump). IMO, I’d go set back 140, but you’ll probably find a 144 much easier.

Chris Haggest is ProWatercraft Racing - www.prowatercraftracing.com or search them on FB. No mods to run his shoe. Knock out the stocker, clean up the excess glue, glue in new one.

Stock reduction and steering nozzles are fine. I used Pro Tec trim on my skis, so you’d an go with their reduction and steering set up as well.

SM
 
iQRTurbo

iQRTurbo

I have a Skat Mag aluminum one piece housing 12 vane in very nice shape complete with prop, shaft and even CATS if interested
 
V

Vortex

Location
Southeast
If you wanted trim for racing, you want pro tec trim imo. More effective on a sj but I could see a use for it off the line on a blaster. Have to add a trim tube to do it right and that means disassembly of the engine and pump

3" setback pump would be interesting, probably would turn awesome.

Btw, the stock pump does have some advantages, mainly the alignment pins built into the housings. Some of the heavier one PC mag pumps are not so easy to install and align. On a sj you have to have the hull upside down to do it, so a blaster would be probably done while titled on its side. Slight hassle.
 
9

9tyfiveblaster

Location
floatn around
Ok so lets say I stick with the 144. Scottie and Vortex you both mentioned running both the JC 2" and a SKAT setback for a total of 3".

So given the options what are you guys thoughts on these options.

A. Run a set back SKAT mag 144 for 1" of setback

B. Run the JC setback and a standard SKAT mag pump for 2" of setback

C. Run the JC setback and a setback SKAT mag pump for 3" of setback

For option B. I have the driveshaft that came with the JC spacer that should work and I could just buy the standard SKAT pump.

For option C. I would need to have a driveshaft made. Would you guys think there would be that big of a performance difference to go to a 3" setback as opposed to 2"? Also what about steering cable extenders? Just stick an extra one in there?

What would you guys do?

On the Protec trim system I am guessing you can't find that new anymore? Or at least I didn't see one.

Thoughts on the Schredmaster intake grate ride plate combo?
 
V

Vortex

Location
Southeast
I'd probably go with option a or b. C would be more customizing and extra time.

You can buy parts for pro tec trim but they do not sell the kit anymore.
 
V

Vortex

Location
Southeast
9tyfiveblaster said:
Are all the parts available to complete the assembly on the trim system? Or are some out of production?
Click to expand...

They still have the trim ring and steering nozzle, cable, and most of the small parts. The reduction nozzle is not made anymore.

You also could get the drop trim kit made by thrust innovations, I think even solas still has a trim kit
 
scottie mac

scottie mac

X-
If you are going the 1100 conversion, then definitely go 144 on the pump. Seeing that the triple conversions have way more torque than twins, the more water volume you can get in front of the prop, the better. I’d go option c, but it will be expensive. Custom driveshafts are high dollar. To make life easy, the best option would probably be the non set back skat mag 144, with the JC racing 2 inch set back kit. Is this as good as 3, no. Will you be able to tell the difference???? Probably not.

SM
 
9

9tyfiveblaster

Location
floatn around
Ok so I think I have pretty much nailed down what I am gonna do for the pump.
I think i will run this setup

Prowatercraft racing pump shoe
JCRacing 2" setback
Skat Mag standard pump (non setback)
with stock components behind that and not do any trim unless of course somebody thinks I should do it! I will have it tore all the way down so that would be the time to make it happen!

What about props? What would be a good prop to run behind a modded 1100 Kawi? Mainly talking brand. But I will take suggestions on size.


Thanks for all the help guys. Your knowledge is a big help!
 
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