Max static timing for a long rod 5 mill on a enhanser & av100 fuel?

[masterblaster]

I know the log rod has longer dwell time at TDC,using a enhancer and a rad flywheel,I will set it with a light.what is the max degree of static advance I could get away with using av100 fuel,primary surf ride ski but once in a while top end blasts for 10 to 15 secs

 

[masterblaster]

where the techies when ya need them? lol

 

[yamasaki]

i recommend 38 degrees static advance. HIGHLY.

 

[QJS]

It isn't the static timing you need to worry about, its the timing at your torque peak both the RAD flywheel and the enahancer advance your timing slightly. Be careful.
Chris.

 

[SUPERTUNE]

Try starting @ 24 degrees, no more until you do a plug check.

 

[masterblaster]

thanks chuck,was thinking 22 at first,does the long rod not really have that much effect on advance?

qjs,I did mean total timing sorry.just wondering how many degree advance on the stator it will be with this setup to achieve 24? what rpm would be best to see this advance on a msd

 

[SUPERTUNE]

thanks chuck,was thinking 22 at first,does the long rod not really have that much effect on advance?

qjs,I did mean total timing sorry.just wondering how many degree advance on the stator it will be with this setup to achieve 24? what rpm would be best to see this advance on a msd

When using aftermarket components like your Rad flywheel, you must use a timing light to set desired timing. Never just guess how much to move the stator from stock.
I've seen some really screwy timing over the years with different combination of parts, even rebuilt stators sometimes can alter timing too.

 

[masterblaster]

I have a light to use,just wondered what most have set the stator at with a rad FW. Ive heard many diff opins on them,some say they are factory made retarded for safety,others advanced,Ed told me he had seen some of them 6 deg off.

So the long rod has no negative effect on more advance then,even with the longer dwell time at tdc.

 

[Watty]

I don't think it really matters that it's a rad flywheel. Use the light to see what your actual timing is. Once you get that spot on, the ignition will do the rest. If you're guessing, you'll have no real idea where the max timing is holding at a certain rpm.

Start low, and work your way up as you go by checking plugs and piston wash. You'll most likely get to a point where the engine starts to produce more heat and doesn't make any more power. An infrared temp gun really helps here. Has worked well for me anyway.