- Location
- California
Just wondering if anyone has modded their stock exhaust to run drier, I've been reading up a bit on it, just wondering the pros/cons and how much it actually helps. I have a welder so I've been thinking about tryin it...
650/X-2 modding the stock 650sx exhaust
- Thread starter waterbox
- Start date
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
This question has been answered more times than {Do they still make those things } has.
Joker
...chaos? Its Fair!
- Location
- La Porte, Indiana
Lol wfo. there is a thread on here about modding the exhaust to get more top end and it has pics to go with.
Ice and aspirin heals any wound
Ice and aspirin heals any wound
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
http://www.pwctoday.com/f21/kawi-stock-650-exhaust-mod-instructions-148631.html
I linked it in the mods list so I can add it later. I need to tidy that thread up a bit.
I linked it in the mods list so I can add it later. I need to tidy that thread up a bit.
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
That just your opinion Kevbo, however wrong it may be
When done correctly the pipe mod makes a noticeable difference in the way the ski runs, the 650 engine in my 300SX conversion ski is stock other than a 44 carb, jetsport intake and a pipe mod, I didn't even extend the pipe length on it, it walks the dog on my 650SX conversion ski which has a Coffman pipe, TR racing head @180lbs compression, dual resonators with rear exhaust and a 44 Mikuni carb and reed boosters.
When done correctly the pipe mod makes a noticeable difference in the way the ski runs, the 650 engine in my 300SX conversion ski is stock other than a 44 carb, jetsport intake and a pipe mod, I didn't even extend the pipe length on it, it walks the dog on my 650SX conversion ski which has a Coffman pipe, TR racing head @180lbs compression, dual resonators with rear exhaust and a 44 Mikuni carb and reed boosters.
- Location
- California
So you are essentially converting it to run the way an after market exhaust would run? Does it just increase RPM's or does it help with low end at all?
Is the 650sx not tuned at all? How is that possible that next to no mods out performs the heavily modded one? Or do you mean your top speed is higher, not necessarily the entire rpm range?
- Location
- Loveland, Colorado
I tryed a mod pipe compared to my westcoast. The high ends felt similar but the mod exhaust felt like less throttle response and less low end compared to the westcoast. Not trying to discourage you just letting you know how it worked for me.
- Location
- California
For sure man thanks, I'm just wondering about the draw backs to making it run drier, I hear you can melt couplers and stuff because it gets so much hotter, so just trying to decide if its work it.
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
Your stinger should lightly sizzle water at the most. If it sizzles quickly, it's too hot. If it doesn't sizzle quickly, then you wont melt the couplers. That is, as long as you have water in the exhaust air. Couplers melt quicker to dry air than wet. It's unlikely you can have the air dry w/o having the stinger get extremely hot that you wouldn't notice it over heating. The silicone couplers are rated for like 400 degrees of wet heat. You will know that your exhuast is too hot unless you just skip testing it.
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Not sure how its possible, the motor in the 300SX is a bone stock motor out of a TS, it has a pipe mod, a bad bones resonator, no waterbox, a 44mikuni carb and a jetsport intake manifold, fugging this rips, out of the hole, midrange and top end , I am kinda pissed because that motor was in my ski last year, I gave my son my engine and built myself another one, the motor in my ski is tuned to a T , it just won't hang with his.
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
Could be the weight of the ski and the weight of the rider. 300 is much smaller, no? If you each ride your own skis, that thing could be dragging 100lbs less.
do the waterbypass mod and stretch the stock cone 3-4in. if you can weld its a free mod and as you can see the diffrence between stock mod and a/m pipe is arguable. get a 44m mikuni if you can find an a/m intake for it or 38m and have the stock intake port matched. theres a very good thread called turn your stocker into a 47mph... look in the x2 mod sections on both here and pwc
- Location
- California
So you can some what "tune" how much water runs through the exhaust with the size of water fittings you use correct?
Joker
...chaos? Its Fair!
- Location
- La Porte, Indiana
or you can use an adujustable water restrictor.
http://optimaracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=204_213_271&products_id=1306
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
You can also do it just by adding T-fittings before the pipe. If you put a T b/t the head and the pipe and add a second pisser for the T you added, you will have reduced the flow and the pressure to the pipe, and as a result reduce the amount of water in the pipe and increase the temp of the pipe.
Reducing the water in the pipe improves throttle response by decreasing pressure in the pipe, allowing better airflow. However, removing that water also increases the temp of exhaust gases, when can cause over heating and change the pipe performance. Hotter air is less dense and moves faster, making the pipe effectively shorter. Cooler air is slower air, making the pipe effectively longer. Hotter isn't better. It's a tuning thing. The exhuast gases should be the right temp to correctly effect the airflow to give the proper performance. That is why you lengthen the pipe when you dry it out doing the mod. Dryer makes faster air, which makes the pipe too short. You then increases the length of the pipe so that it is the appropriate length for the velocity of the soundwave that creates the pressure.
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