Blaster Motor ran wild even with plug wires off and key out.

[Jpass]

Last weekend my versi-plug got stuck open when we were hanging in the shallows of my local lake. I noticed my ski was sitting low in the water. When I opened the hood the water was about an inch or two above the bottom of the cylinders. I hit the bilge and cleared the versi-plug and all was well. Ski ran fine the rest of the day.

Today I put it on the hose for a minute and then when I went to rev the throttle to clear the waterbox she ran wild at about half throttle. I pulled the key, nothing. I yanked the plug wires, nothing. I then folded the fuel line to the engine. She ran another 30 seconds. The motor finally stopped when I revved the throttle.

I didn't check the front stator cover, or pull the ebox yet. I plan on doing that tomorrow.

The motor was barely warm to the touch once she shut down. The same with the exhaust. I was shocked at how it stayed running for so long.

Anything I should check besides the stator cover and ebox?

 

[Matt_E]

Go to the tech FAQ section and look at the stickied thread about runaway motors.

 

[Marcgraham27]

its an air leak

 

[Jpass]

Go to the tech FAQ section and look at the stickied thread about runaway motors.

Thanks. I'll look for an air leak.

 

[dmpus]

runaway motor, you may run too lean. Your spark plugs get red from the high detonations and ignite the fuel without spark. In that case wide open the throttle and flood the cylinders.

 

[Jpass]

ran it again today. It never ran away, but I only ran it for a few seconds. I noticed lots of air bubbles coming from the carb nipple at the return line. Got foamy when I revved the motor. Brand new clear lines on everything. Ill cut it back and try it again I guess.

 

[Twinturbostang]

All you have to do when that happens is grab the throttle and pull it wide open and the motor will turn off. As long as the keys out

 

[Jpass]

All you have to do when that happens is grab the throttle and pull it wide open and the motor will turn off. As long as the keys out

Yeah I figured that out. Now I just need to stop the air leak at the return nipple off the carb. Gonna work on it this week.

 

[swapmeet]

Man I hate air leaks. I chased one for awhile I believe it was at my intake mani.

Its a little bit of a PITA, but if you can't get it to run right try a leak down test.

 

[Freakrider]

Aftermarket fuel lines sux and many of them are 1/4 inch instead of oem 6mm which fit better .

 

[swapmeet]

Yeah, I run 5/16" Tygon. Its transparent but fits tight.

 

[Jpass]

Aftermarket fuel lines sux and many of them are 1/4 inch instead of oem 6mm which fit better .

I got the line from my mechanic and have it on both of my skis. So far everything has been fine. I was thinking of using my heat gun on the line after I reconnect it to the return nipple on the carb. I'm hoping a little heat will shrink it around the barb and will seal better. I am also going to try a larger zip tie as well. Worse case scenario, I get some different fuel line I guess.

 

[MADMAT]

I got the line from my mechanic and have it on both of my skis. So far everything has been fine. I was thinking of using my heat gun on the line after I reconnect it to the return nipple on the carb. I'm hoping a little heat will shrink it around the barb and will seal better. I am also going to try a larger zip tie as well. Worse case scenario, I get some different fuel line I guess.

I have been using the 1/4" colored fuel line for years...no problems...but you do have to have dual small zip ties on the ends.....just like OEM.....the 2 small zip ties seal it nice.

 

[swapmeet]

LOL I always feel like i'm suggesting someone kiss their cousin when I recommend this, but I safety wire all my fuel lines.