- Location
- marion ohio
Just like the title says would like some good info on how to repitch a prop. I don't want tosend it to impro's. I've heard they take for ever. I've gotta 7/18 and I need more low end.
Custom/Hybrid need diy repitch
- Thread starter 102nd7
- Start date
- Location
- amarillo ,tx
On greenhulk there was a link to a pdf that you could print off a gauge to do it dont remember exactly who brought it up on here
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
- Location
- amarillo ,tx
- Location
- marion ohio
Thanks
DAG
Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
There is a ton of info over on greehulk. There is a guy that even had a DIY hitch mount prop bender so you can test and tune at the lake. There is also a .pdf floating around that you can print out yourself, however, it's not useable b/c of how it's formatted on 8.5x11, I couldn't get it to come out correctly on 11x17. Ended up makeing some on heavy gauge 22" translucent Mylar. I have a few extra if anyone wants them. Asking $10 and ship/pp. PM for details, not trying to derail the thread just listing options. 
- Location
- marion ohio
Ill take 1 if it works with 155 props
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
Got a gauge coming from DAG, interested in trying some repitches (from shore)
http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=20995 Is a link to the hitch setup to DIY repitch.
http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=20995 Is a link to the hitch setup to DIY repitch.
- Location
- marion ohio
Just so you don't mess up your prop just know that the trailing edge is 1000 times easier to repitch than the leading edge. And according to most the leading edge has a greater impact on bottom end. Trailing edge is more top speed.
- Location
- marion ohio
Another helpful hint that I found out is try to focus on the outside circumference edge not the hole blade. Good luck and hope that helped
NVJAY775
My home away from home.
- Location
- Gardnerville, Nevada, United States
The guy that re pitches for me also mentioned that the prop will start to soften after 3 bends (re pitches) Food for thought.
DAG
Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
metal does not soften from bending...they harden
- Location
- central florida
here is the very informative link to greenhulk, complete with 2 meg pixel pics, how to instructions, but you still need a prop gauge and a 24" adjustable wrench (cheap at Harbor freight) http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=20995
impeller pitch gauge: $130 retail
impeller pitch gauge: $130 retail
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NVJAY775
My home away from home.
- Location
- Gardnerville, Nevada, United States
It's like bending a wire over and over. It gets softer. Impros says the same thing only re pitch 3 times max. Although knowing my luck, you were being sarchastic and I misread it and choked lmao! Also you can only re pitch so far off of your root angles as I understand.metal does not soften from bending...they harden
- Location
- USA
Just send it to the guy that pitches props for me and NVjay. http://www.wcporting.com/
If I remember it was somewhere around $25 plus shipping, just contact him, his name is Kevin.
DAG
Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Not being sarcastic, my trade is in metal forming. (not props thou). Bending the prop "work hardens" the piece up until it reaches its yield point. At which point the material become ductile, necks, then fails. With that being said its not the number of times a prop is repitched its how far its away from nominal, and the process the prop went thru to get there. If the prop was only bent 1 direction 15' at a time I bet you could repitch it a dozen times. for a bad example
Most available impellers are too steep for what we do and most people tend to go up rather than down when they buy one. Nearly all modern units (except Dynaflys) are cambered and have a low leading edge angle. Raising the trailing edge will unload the pump without hurting anything. Large hubs are more difficult to work than small hubs so you need to select them more carefully to begin with. The problem with Greenhulks method is our props dont have enough room for a big cresent to go lower in pitch. Maybe a modified Ford or monkey wrench but who has one of those anymore. I chuck the hub (top to bottom) in a soft aluminum jaw vise and work the blades with an aluminum stick and 2lb hammer. It takes some practice but you can find huge gains from small 701-760 engines. Larger low port and PV engines can usually pull the steeper props.
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