Blaster need help with a factory b pipe getting too hot

[extreemthrottle]

o.k. i realize this has been posted before, but i've gone threw all of the listings and took the time to try all the suggestions.

what i have is a 61x bottom end and a 64x topend, in my blaster 1. single carb setup, greater head, with 40cc domes running approx 165 psi in each hole. factory b pipe with a stainless limited chamber with dual cooling. i ran this same setup on my original stock 61x motor before with no issues.

i've gone threw the pipe two or three times to make sure i have'nt missed anything, pulled out the adjusting screws, ran a welding tip cleaner through the holes until they were clean, blew out everything with compressed air . i've double and triple checked the plumbing, in and out of the pipe. i have turned the bottom screw out over one turn and the top screw out more than one turn, but still the chamber is sizzling way too much. the motor seems to be running at a good temp but the chamber will not cool down enough. i have it to where the first part of the chamber (closes to the head pipe) is the only part that really sizzles, the rest is barely sizzling.

could it be the head is not moving enough water the the head pipe? its the only difference from the stock motor other than the larger displacement.

i'm getting very frustrated with the whole thing and watching as summer is coming to an end without a resolution in sight.. really don't know where to go from here, so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated..

 

[SUPERTUNE]

Post a diagram of how your running the waterlines.

 

[extreemthrottle]

would be better if i just type it out, (it would be worse if i drew it).
both cooling lines from the pump into the bottom of the exh manifold. then out of the top of the head with two lines, front line to pisser with a T for the stinger. rear line from top of head to bottom of head pipe, out of the top of the headpipe to the pisser. keep in mind the water here in s. florida is about 82-84 degrees right now.

i'm trying to think of anything that could cause this. maybe i have the exhaust manifold to cylinder gasket in wrong? don't think i do or that could cause anything. or maybe the head isnt flowing enough to the headpipe. i tried restricting the leaving cooling lines one at a time. first the one from the front of the head, then tried the one from the top of the headpipe. did'nt seem to make a difference. the only thing i did notice is that it takes about 20-30 seconds for the water to come out of the pisser from the headpipe. it used to do that on the old motor also though.
i'm at a freakin loss here.

what if i took one of the cooling lines from the pump to the bottom of the headpipe first? i could split the other line from the pump to go to the bottom of the manifold..
what do ya think?

 

[BombThreat]

I havent read your previous posts, but have you checked the water lines for a blockage? Possibly a small pebble is lodged someplace? We had one get stuck right inside one of the 90 degree fittings on the exhaust manifold, causing a heat issue. Remove one waterline at a time and try blowing threw it.

 

[SUPERTUNE]

There is two more reason reasons that you run hotter than a Superjet...
1, it's a waveblaster, you ride it with a lot more on the throttle than you would on a Superjet= more heat.
2, a wave blaster stainless chamber will run hotter than the aluminum Superjet chambers= more heat.
Waterline routing is fine.
Run the bottom pipe adjuster 1 turn out.
This will give you some sizzle at the chamber closest to the headpipe. This is somewhat normal for a hot-rodded engine setup.
You could pressure check the engine as well.
In a waveblaster pull out battery and tray, take off the 2 lines from the pump through hull fittings, connect them together with a butt splice.
take off the two top head outlet hoses and make up a hose with a 'T' and then connect to each fitting on the head and then pressure check with a gauge at the 'T' fitting. Should hold 15 lbs and NOT leak a drop.
If you pass this test, now check supply lines...
Reconnect the lines at the back of the hull from the pump through hull fittings, now hook up a hose to the 'T' that you have on the head and pressurize with the hose with water and then use a flashlight and look into the pump and make sure both water feeds are blowing plenty of water into the pump.
Using a restrictor at the top headpipe outlet will help cool the chamber a little too, don't do this until your out 1 1/2 turn out with the adjuster screw.

 

[Dustin Mustangs]

I think I am right in that the only thing that cools the chamber are the bleed holes in the head pipe. You can test the flow through those by plugging one fitting with your thumb and blowing through the other one while leaving one screw open at a time. With all closed it should hold pressure. That being said, I imagine you could get the same symptom from a fuel starved (or improperly tuned) engine that had proper cooling.

In my experience (albeit colder water temps), you can run the adjustment screws all the way or almost all the way closed on a dual cooled blaster and still not get any sizzle if everything is working right.

 

[masterblaster]

sounds like he checked all that with the screw holes,he has a supply issue,air will blow through a water line that has a odd shaped rock wedged in the pump fitting or exh mani 90,or any other along the way but will restrict water enough to overheat the pipe or motor or both sometimes.check these first. 30 secs is way to long of a delay to get water out of the pipe,should be more like 5 with decent flow

 

[extreemthrottle]

i'm going to put all the advise to work today. thanks for the input and the direction..

 

[extreemthrottle]

o.k. so i have gone through all of the cooling lines blew out everything with water and compressed air, checked for leaks or cracks in any of the lines and have found nothing. i even took the cooling lines off of the top of the head, tee'd them together with a hose fitting and back flushed it into a bucket to see if anything came out. did my best to pressurize the cooling system and look for any leakage, still have found nothing, and still the head pipe gets too hot and the chamber sizzle way too much. even with the top and bottom screws out 2-3 turns..

i realized today, that the motor is also getting too hot as well. not like sizzling hot but hot to the touch. plenty of water coming out of the pisser too...WTF!!!!!!

i got home today and decided to run the ski on the hose and see if the chamber and or the headpipe got hot. everything was running perfectly on the hose, the motor, which i expected beacuse of no load on the motor, but the headpipe and chamber were both nice and cool.

so im wondering if the exh manifold is to blame for this? its a 61x manifold on a 64x cylinder. its port matched so it has plenty of flow. it seems im trying to find the ghost in the machine!! i'm thinking its a problem from the manifold back..

this is really starting to get frustrating as i watch whats left of summer slip away..
looked at the clearance on the prop to wear ring, looks good there, all the cooling lines are 3/8, no kinks in any lines...

HELP!!!!!

ANYBODY HAVE ANYMORE INPUT ?

 

[extreemthrottle]

i have decided to take the second cooling line and make it 1/2" instead of 3/8". going to route that all the way to the manifold.

anyone have any input or any more suggestions?

 

[BombThreat]

have you checked the headpipe adjuster screws for good water flow? possibly one or more are clogged? Ive had the top adjuster screw boss portion of the headpipe be defective from the factory, wasnt letting any water flow. Also are the gaskets water flow cutouts matching the engine parts water jacket outlets?

 

[extreemthrottle]

i have checked the water flow on the head pipe, even took out the adjuster screws and ran a welding tip cleaner through the holes and made sure of the flow.

i'm guessing the gasket you reffering to is the exhaust manifold gasket. i did match it up to the cylinder and manifold before i put it together..
i cant remember what the manifold waterjacket looks like on the factory perf. anyone got a picture?

i guess i'm going to pull it all back apart, check the exh manifold make sure i have the all clear..

 

[extreemthrottle]

well, ive pulled the exhaust manifold off, as well as the rest of the cooling system. found...........nothing....:banghead::261::grumble::cussing:

nada! cant believe i found nothing wrong, clogged or otherwise. not much left to look at so i decided to go with larger cooling lines from the pump forward. instead of the oem size of 3/8" o.d. i tapped out the pump for larger fittings, put a larger through hull fitting, and tapped both cooling lines to the bottom of the exhaust manifold all to 3/8" i.d.
since i had the exhaust manifold off. i also decided to take the gasket and mark out the waterjacket on the manifold and using a dremel tool and a couple of bits, opened it up quite a bit on the vertical part of the waterjacket. i took off around a 1/2" of material on the vertical part, then i just cleaned up some of the casting imperfections on the inside too.

i really believe i have exhausted every other possible avenue in this cooling system. once i get it back together and tested, i'll post up the results... thanks for the input..

 

[SUPERTUNE]

Has the head been replaced? A weeping headgasket leak will cause it every time, the only ways I have found the problem is, 1 replace the head, 2 a visual inspection of the head, deck, and headgasket/o-ring conditions, 3 cap off the incoming water lines to the engine, then use a 'T' fitting to bring the 2 outlet fittings on the head to 1 line, connect this line to a vacuum pump w/ gauge and pump down engine water jacket to 28" inches, make sure it holds.
Now start engine with the idle screw turn out, hold throttle to idle for 30-35 seconds, then nail the gas a couple of times while watching the gauge, if you loose vacuum, you know you have a combustion or exhaust internal leak.

 

[extreemthrottle]

Has the head been replaced? A weeping headgasket leak will cause it every time, the only ways I have found the problem is, 1 replace the head, 2 a visual inspection of the head, deck, and headgasket/o-ring conditions, 3 cap off the incoming water lines to the engine, then use a 'T' fitting to bring the 2 outlet fittings on the head to 1 line, connect this line to a vacuum pump w/ gauge and pump down engine water jacket to 28" inches, make sure it holds.
Now start engine with the idle screw turn out, hold throttle to idle for 30-35 seconds, then nail the gas a couple of times while watching the gauge, if you loose vacuum, you know you have a combustion or exhaust internal leak.

thanks for the info. i'll have to try to find a vacuum gauge that will work and a way to pump it down. hhmm, you might be on to something here.. i did deck the head just enough to get it perfectly straight and used a brand new set of orings for it, but i guess it still could be leaking.

 

[SUPERTUNE]

I just use a automotive vacuum pump for sucking down AC units.

 

[masterblaster]

doesnt take but a min to pop off a ada head, just so you know,if you decked the cylin because you had a prev blown oring in the same head,the wear is usually in the head shell where the back side of the domes contact it,I ran into this once,the tinyest leak will cause severe overheating,the crush clearance is tiny,if its off your gonna have issues for sure

 

[extreemthrottle]

doesnt take but a min to pop off a ada head, just so you know,if you decked the cylin because you had a prev blown oring in the same head,the wear is usually in the head shell where the back side of the domes contact it,I ran into this once,the tinyest leak will cause severe overheating,the crush clearance is tiny,if its off your gonna have issues for sure

good to know. i only decked the head just to make sure i had even contact all the way around. i did'nt know about it causing overheating.. thanks!

 

[extreemthrottle]

update!!

so i confirmed that the head must be leaking (thanks for all the help with it). so i got a stock head and gasket and put it on so at least i could go riding, i decided to check compression to see where it was at with the stock head, and to my dismay the #'s were 135 139!! wtf! i think i need to get the oem head gasket instead of the one i have. but i didnt think it would be off that much.

does this seem right to anyone?