krawler98
Always wrenchin'
- Location
- Roanoke, VA
I have an xmetal pole on my aquabot, and I'm looking for a steering setup that will fit the pole and allow me to run fat riser bars. Any suggestions?
Need steering for my xmetal pole for fat bars
- Thread starter krawler98
- Start date
ProSouth
Seriously, Don't be a dick.
- Location
- kawasakis suck
rrp, i run it on my xmetal pole. if you have the new xmetal pole you wont have to modify it any, but you will have to cut a lot of chin pad away for riser fat bars. i just didnt run a chin pad. Im lazy
krawler98
Always wrenchin'
- Location
- Roanoke, VA
Sounds good. Any others for comparison?
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- Location
- Long Island
i just installed one the other day. ill put up pics tomorrow. i had the older x metal pole so i had to drill the 4 holes and bore the center hole to fit the rrp base plate.
I run the cold fusion fat bar steering. It uses the oem bushings so you never have to worry about bearings. I will say it a different feeling compared to a bearing set up, but for simple inexpensive steering it works awesome!
I did have to drill out the center hole, but not the 4 holes.
I did have to drill out the center hole, but not the 4 holes.
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
Just picked up the ADA steering. Still have to get the fat bars for it. But a nice setup
- Location
- Cruising Around
WDK FTW. Simple, compact, highly corrosion resistant, very smooth operation, huge selection of bars. I've had UMI,RRP,Cold Fusion, XMetal. No comparison imo.
- Location
- Charlotte NC
if you want a bearing system, get something like the atp system.....sealed bearing....much better
- Location
- Cruising Around
Much better than the sealed bearing WDK? How?
- Location
- Charlotte NC
i said to get something with a sealed bearing like the atp............just using the atp system as an example......
BrightE's
Paul
- Location
- Seattle, WA
Don't go Blowsion, the plate interferes with the chinpad mounting column. Im just now figuring out... :-(
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- Location
- Tri-Cities, WA
Yep. Had to take the grinder to the turn stop/chin pad post to clearance it for the turnplate.
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BrightE's
Paul
- Location
- Seattle, WA
On top of that I'm finding out you have to cut into the chin pad if you bolt a phat clamp on. I'm thinking it is time to get an ADA fat plate.
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- Location
- Tri-Cities, WA
I didn't. Just put a 1" nylon spacer on top of the post and used a longer bolt.
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BrightE's
Paul
- Location
- Seattle, WA
- Location
- Tri-Cities, WA
BrightE's
Paul
- Location
- Seattle, WA
Nah, I honestly wouldn't have known the pad was raised just looking at it. Good to know that's a safe route to take. Thanks.
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hornedogg79
dodgin' bass boats
Instead of boring out the hole at the current center then grinding the turn stop post or turn plate for clearance..... Offset the bore so the circumference of the new larger hole is no closer to the post than the original smaller hole. This will position the turn plate further back and eliminate the need to grind on your pretty new parts.
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speedysprocket
Alex
- Location
- Chesapeake, VA
Then you'd have to drill and tap four new holes to hold the plate in after you found a machine shop to bore that hole off center... It was really no big deal grinding the stop. I did it to mine and that stop is a lot easier and cheaper to replace if you wanted to than the hole base plate...
hornedogg79
dodgin' bass boats
My xmetal adjustable didn't have the 4 holes. OEM bushing style ftw.
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