I have a 1997 kawasaki 750 sxi dual carbs. I recently bought 2 2.5 inch hot products tornado filters, when I put them in it runs really sluggish and doesn't have near as much power, also this ski is all stock. Any ideas on what I could do to help this????? and if tuned right while this ad any power???????
New aftermarket air filters having carb issues on dual carb 750 sxi, please help!!!
- Thread starter Cody
- Start date
- Location
- Ahwahnee, CA
1) Adding air filters alone won't add power in my experience
2) Reducing the amount of restriction by removing the OEM spark arrestor will affect pop off pressure and you will likely need to adjust the needle/seat and/or pop off spring.
2) Reducing the amount of restriction by removing the OEM spark arrestor will affect pop off pressure and you will likely need to adjust the needle/seat and/or pop off spring.
- Location
- Ahwahnee, CA
I'm not sure if your ski has mikuni or keihin carbs... I have never messed with a keihin. Either way, Shouldn't be too difficult to perform the labor. You will need a pop off pressure gauge.
As Im not familiar with the 750 Kawi, I can't offer up a starting point for the jetting/ pop off pressure. You might try to do some searching on here or pwctoday.com.
Hopefully someone with more Kawi experience can help.
As Im not familiar with the 750 Kawi, I can't offer up a starting point for the jetting/ pop off pressure. You might try to do some searching on here or pwctoday.com.
Hopefully someone with more Kawi experience can help.
- Location
- seattle area, Wa
when you installed the flame arrestors/adapters in place of the OEM unit you greatly increased the amount of air supply to the engine. If you increase the air supply you must also increase the fuel supply or you will run lean.
depending on your particular setup you might be able to get away with opening up your bottom and top carb screws slightly OR you might need to rejet them up a size or two.
very simple to do and there are tons of threads on this subject. do a quick google search and read up
depending on your particular setup you might be able to get away with opening up your bottom and top carb screws slightly OR you might need to rejet them up a size or two.
very simple to do and there are tons of threads on this subject. do a quick google search and read up
SXIPro
JM781 Big Bore
- Location
- Here on the 'X' mostly
If you are gonna ride hard and do tricks that involve taking on water (subs, stabs, failed rolls and backflips) put the stock airbox back on. Otherwise you are going to constantly be having water ingestion issues. If you are gonna run buoys, leave them on and rejet your carbs.
- Location
- Highland Village, TX
+1 for pop off, read the mikuni manual, it describes this situation exactly.
- Location
- Highland Village, TX
www.mikuni.com/pdf/sbn_manual.pdf
Magyar68
Really!!!
- Location
- Lewisville
here are the manuals http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?thre...uides-–-wiring-diagrams-–-software-etc.74013/
If its hard to start or doesn't idle correctly, its Pop-off almost guaranteed. Lived this nightmare myself, SXi has Keihin Carbs and you need to cut the springs, you need to beg, Borrow, or Steel a pop-off Gauge to perform it correctly. I know pwctoday has the carb rebuild guide.. the end talks about cutting the spring, think i needed 20-25 with stock exhaust. Also you will run lean on the top end, and those adjusters will need some amount of adjustment to compensate for the increased airflow. As for removing the flap, my Pro has no flap and when they were both stock the Pro was no louder than the SX with the flap. Good luck
If its hard to start or doesn't idle correctly, its Pop-off almost guaranteed. Lived this nightmare myself, SXi has Keihin Carbs and you need to cut the springs, you need to beg, Borrow, or Steel a pop-off Gauge to perform it correctly. I know pwctoday has the carb rebuild guide.. the end talks about cutting the spring, think i needed 20-25 with stock exhaust. Also you will run lean on the top end, and those adjusters will need some amount of adjustment to compensate for the increased airflow. As for removing the flap, my Pro has no flap and when they were both stock the Pro was no louder than the SX with the flap. Good luck
SXIPro
JM781 Big Bore
- Location
- Here on the 'X' mostly
You'll end up filling your motor with water. Why do you want it to be louder, to give more ammunition to the people trying to ban jet skis?
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
Adding filters reduces carb signal. You need a lower popoff. Not necessarily because you have more air or need more fuel, but because you changed thd vaccuum.
SXIPro
JM781 Big Bore
- Location
- Here on the 'X' mostly
If by 'little' you mean inexpensive, no. Power costs money. Pipe, nice prop, etc are gonna give you some decent improvements in power. Little/cheaper things like having your flywheel lightened, just give you the tiniest bit of more brap. Even some expensive stuff doesn't realy gain you much, like an MSD enhancer.
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
How modifications affect your reliability depends on your definition of reliability. If by reliability, you mean the ski starts and runs good, then that's just about keeping things in good working order, cleaning them, etc.
If by reliability you mean long crank and piston life, then every modification you make reduces that definition of reliability. Your filters technically add more power, and reduce engine life, but the amount is so minimal its negligible. You just have to decide what amount of engine life you are willing to trade.
For me, I am willing to accept that my high compression head, pipe, lightened flywheel, etc, increase my peak RPM by 1000rpm and place more force and heat on my pistons, crank, etc. I believe a setup like this is good for several years, a few hundred hours, unlike a stock boat that might run every summer indefinitely.
You must decide how you define reliable.
My advice is look up the IJSBA rules for what mods you can have, and start with stock class. Move on to limited mods when you are ready. I realize you may not be racing, but it still applies.
If by reliability you mean long crank and piston life, then every modification you make reduces that definition of reliability. Your filters technically add more power, and reduce engine life, but the amount is so minimal its negligible. You just have to decide what amount of engine life you are willing to trade.
For me, I am willing to accept that my high compression head, pipe, lightened flywheel, etc, increase my peak RPM by 1000rpm and place more force and heat on my pistons, crank, etc. I believe a setup like this is good for several years, a few hundred hours, unlike a stock boat that might run every summer indefinitely.
You must decide how you define reliable.
My advice is look up the IJSBA rules for what mods you can have, and start with stock class. Move on to limited mods when you are ready. I realize you may not be racing, but it still applies.
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
Pipe, head, prop. You need to planyour prop purchase based on what mods you expect to have. A prop for your stock motor might not be the one you want after you get a pipe and head. Do some research. A good place to start is the solas application charts. Stock, limited and mod on the solas applicatiom charts are for ijsba racing classifications, so look those mods up as i mentioned previously.