Newbie SuperJet Build

Lando

Lando

Location
Bozeman, MT
Hey guys I'm new to the forum and very new to standups. Just started riding last summer and was immediately HOOKED! I should've started this build during the long Montana winter but got a late start this spring. I've completely disassembled the ski and just recently got it back from paint (big shout out to Bozeman Auto Body). I got it home and painted the ends of the pole. Then just last night put one coat down of Bilgekote in the engine bay. 2nd coat hopefully tonight. It's starting to warm up and need to get this thing done... any advice for reassembly would be great, thanks guys!
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Lando

Lando

Location
Bozeman, MT
SUPERJET-113 said:
Looks like your on the right track starting with a nice clean un-abused RN hull. The paint looks super sweet and you must be a pro painter with that nice booth! Anyhow, looking good man!
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Thanks, yeah the entire ski was stock other than the piece of life jacket they glued to the side tray as turf haha! I wish I could take credit for the paint job but some buddies did at the body shop they work at.
 
Pro-pulsion

Pro-pulsion

Location
Ontario, Canada
If you decide to use a heavy duty pole spring, install it with the pole and bracket off of the ski first. The first time I installed one with the pole and wiring set up to be in the hull I spent hours fighting to get that spring in. With the pole and bracket off, you can hyper extend to make the install go in minutes. There are also a bunch of little free mods you can do to make that ski handle much more responsively and just more fun. In stock form they are great, but once you get faster steering response and change a few little things here and there, it will be a blast :)
 
Lando

Lando

Location
Bozeman, MT
Pro-pulsion said:
If you decide to use a heavy duty pole spring, install it with the pole and bracket off of the ski first. The first time I installed one with the pole and wiring set up to be in the hull I spent hours fighting to get that spring in. With the pole and bracket off, you can hyper extend to make the install go in minutes. There are also a bunch of little free mods you can do to make that ski handle much more responsively and just more fun. In stock form they are great, but once you get faster steering response and change a few little things here and there, it will be a blast :)
Click to expand...

I havent purchased a heavy duty spring but it sounds like a good idea! Thanks for the heads up. What free mods can I do?
 
Pro-pulsion

Pro-pulsion

Location
Ontario, Canada
There are a good few, blueprinting the pump will make it much more efficient. Basically all that means is take a rotary tool like a Dremel and grind out any of the casting bumps etc to make the vane section smooth and more open. There is also removing the center rung from the intake grate, this will help it scoop more water where the center rung has a tendency to displace the water creating air pockets and cavitation. You can dill and tap a new hole closer to the steering nozzle to give you faster steering response and I believe you can move the little pivot ball on the steering turn plate out further to again give faster steering and I think more throw. There is a good range of things you can do while it is empty right now. This is my build thread, it might have some good info for you...

http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/1996-round-nose-superjet-project.106380/#post-1224209
 
Lando

Lando

Location
Bozeman, MT
Pro-pulsion said:
There are a good few, blueprinting the pump will make it much more efficient. Basically all that means is take a rotary tool like a Dremel and grind out any of the casting bumps etc to make the vane section smooth and more open. There is also removing the center rung from the intake grate, this will help it scoop more water where the center rung has a tendency to displace the water creating air pockets and cavitation. You can dill and tap a new hole closer to the steering nozzle to give you faster steering response and I believe you can move the little pivot ball on the steering turn plate out further to again give faster steering and I think more throw. There is a good range of things you can do while it is empty right now. This is my build thread, it might have some good info for you...

http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/1996-round-nose-superjet-project.106380/#post-1224209
Click to expand...

Awesome thanks for the info! I have heard about the center rung removal and plan on doing that until I buy a new intake grate.

My ride plate is in bad shape with 2 cracks in it at the bottom corners. Id like to do a D cut starting at the cracks but I'm afraid the D cut will be too big. How precise do I need to be on the the dimensions of the cut? Thanks guys!
 
Pro-pulsion

Pro-pulsion

Location
Ontario, Canada
Well, the D is not my preferred style but that part is all just personal preference, so is the size. The typical thought though that seems to be popular is to get a 1 quart paint can lid, set it on the plate and trace it so that you are only using 1/3 of the lid, the rest sits off the plate in the air. This way you won't have too large of a cut out and go larger if you wish. Some guys like a half a can lid worth of D cut, again it is all personal preference.
 
Lando

Lando

Location
Bozeman, MT
Pro-pulsion said:
Well, the D is not my preferred style but that part is all just personal preference, so is the size. The typical thought though that seems to be popular is to get a 1 quart paint can lid, set it on the plate and trace it so that you are only using 1/3 of the lid, the rest sits off the plate in the air. This way you won't have too large of a cut out and go larger if you wish. Some guys like a half a can lid worth of D cut, again it is all personal preference.
Click to expand...

Haha that first line has got me shaking my head ;)

I think the half lid cut wont even make it to the cracks but I'll check it out tonight, thanks!
 
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