- Location
- Spring Lake, MI
I've been working on this project for about 6 months now and feel like I've got something to offer the general public. What you're looking at is a clamp on and bolt on airbox bases that uses oem screens. The airbox top uses oem bolt spacing and has been redesigned to be lower profile and improve airflow into the carburetor. Base and tops are printed in petg. I found brass threaded inserts in both m5 and m6 that work wonderful with the plastic.
- The clamp on base angles the airbox top at 15 degrees and should clear all heads on stock stroke engines. 8mm+ would need clearance around the water ports as needed. I had access to dasa 49mm and ninja 50mm carbs and both had a clamp on diameter of 2.780". This is a tight dimension that would need to be checked for proper clamping force. The design can be modified for different diameter carb tops. If the clearance is too sloppy, overtightening of the clamp can crack the base. Pictured below is on an et967 with dasa 49mm carbs.
- The bolt on carb base angles the airbox top at 10 degrees and gives the same clearance as the clamp on base. Pictured below is a 61x cylinder with 8mm stroker plate. I found some knurled press-in brass "compression limiters" to get enough torque on the m6 screws without the chance of overtightening the base.
- the airbox top has a reduced profile to better fit most hulls. The rear is radiused and base profiled to the rubber screen to improve airflow. Flanged button head screws have excellent grip strength compared to using loose washers. The smallest cross sectional area of the inlet is about 40% larger than a 48mm carb.
I've been impressed with the strength and flexibility of petg and have tried to design these parts to reduce the chance of splitting from vibration. Smooth curves, fillets, and thick walls were used. I've broken a few covers on purpose to make sure I've got good layer adhesion. The bolt on base is quite simple and foolproof, whereas the clamp on base has the variable of different brand carbs having different diameter tops. If it were rubber and hose clamp it wouldn't be an issue. At some point I can have a database of sizes and be able to custom make them for the best fit. I can only assume the 2.780" is a standard but will vary from there.
As far as pricing goes, I've got about $24 total in materials for each complete airbox and feel $40 retail is reasonable. That will be the same or slightly cheaper than a used oem single airbox or pod style filter. $10 flat rate shipping. So for $90 you'll get two complete airboxes with screens and hardware shipped to your door. However, if you've already got the oem screens, I can take $10 off on each airbox. That's how much it cost me to bulk buy them and would rather save them for others that don't have them. I'm very interested in your criticism and possible adjustments before I begin printing. I've had a few local riders spend big bucks because of water intrusion and there is limited options when using aftermarket carbs. Hoping these will save some engines from early destruction.
- The clamp on base angles the airbox top at 15 degrees and should clear all heads on stock stroke engines. 8mm+ would need clearance around the water ports as needed. I had access to dasa 49mm and ninja 50mm carbs and both had a clamp on diameter of 2.780". This is a tight dimension that would need to be checked for proper clamping force. The design can be modified for different diameter carb tops. If the clearance is too sloppy, overtightening of the clamp can crack the base. Pictured below is on an et967 with dasa 49mm carbs.
- The bolt on carb base angles the airbox top at 10 degrees and gives the same clearance as the clamp on base. Pictured below is a 61x cylinder with 8mm stroker plate. I found some knurled press-in brass "compression limiters" to get enough torque on the m6 screws without the chance of overtightening the base.
- the airbox top has a reduced profile to better fit most hulls. The rear is radiused and base profiled to the rubber screen to improve airflow. Flanged button head screws have excellent grip strength compared to using loose washers. The smallest cross sectional area of the inlet is about 40% larger than a 48mm carb.
I've been impressed with the strength and flexibility of petg and have tried to design these parts to reduce the chance of splitting from vibration. Smooth curves, fillets, and thick walls were used. I've broken a few covers on purpose to make sure I've got good layer adhesion. The bolt on base is quite simple and foolproof, whereas the clamp on base has the variable of different brand carbs having different diameter tops. If it were rubber and hose clamp it wouldn't be an issue. At some point I can have a database of sizes and be able to custom make them for the best fit. I can only assume the 2.780" is a standard but will vary from there.
As far as pricing goes, I've got about $24 total in materials for each complete airbox and feel $40 retail is reasonable. That will be the same or slightly cheaper than a used oem single airbox or pod style filter. $10 flat rate shipping. So for $90 you'll get two complete airboxes with screens and hardware shipped to your door. However, if you've already got the oem screens, I can take $10 off on each airbox. That's how much it cost me to bulk buy them and would rather save them for others that don't have them. I'm very interested in your criticism and possible adjustments before I begin printing. I've had a few local riders spend big bucks because of water intrusion and there is limited options when using aftermarket carbs. Hoping these will save some engines from early destruction.
