Piston wash

14hrs tpe 1105
Full spec 49’s
1- gallon of 110
4 -gallons of 93

40:1 skicraft

thoughts
 

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Location
dfw
Cooler combustion temps will usually leave less buildup on pistons and combustion chambers. Your oil can play a big part in what you see. I would tune it a little rich of peak power and not worry about it.
 
Pics are crap. Looks rich for the pattern but the darkness and grittiness of the carbon tells me hot. Looking at the underside of the piston can tell you alot also. You can slip through the intake with an inspection camera.

I find that small changes will show on piston wash very quickly. Less than 20 minutes. I'll get some pics of mine when I get home if I remember. It is what I would consider perfect piston wash.

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Imo how it should look. Critique as you wish. I can take it

If your ring is exposed like people seem to think and it's still running. You have a guardian angel and should try a triple flip.
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Location
Plano, TX
The tpe pistons you have are coated so you won’t really be able to see a good wash like normal. Teflon coated on top I believe. That’s a down side of the coated ones


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Yea the pics kinda suck. No matter what lighting I try . They keep coming out poopty.
Just a reflection off the cylinder . Absolutely nothing wrong with the pistons
 

88kawi5fiddy

pew pew lazers!
Location
So Utah
Yea the pics kinda suck. No matter what lighting I try . They keep coming out poopty.
Just a reflection off the cylinder . Absolutely nothing wrong with the pistons
oh good.

Well, in my unprofessional opinion your wash looks a little lean to me. I like to see the "clean fingers" from the transfer ports to be a little larger than yours.

I like black/ brown on the crown, with the "clean finger" extending about 1/3 to 1/2 way to the middle of the piston. The fingers are clean, due to high velocity fuel/air being shot over the piston, cleans the carbon off.

And I use plugs. Black oily = probably let it idle after your wide open run. but since this is a big 1100, you dont really get a ton of wide open on it.
black non-oily = running well but has some responsiveness/power on the table.
chocolate syrup brown on ceramic electrode and ground electrode = pretty good, a TINY bit of power left on the table
light brown ceramic / ground electrode = nearly optimal, but i dont run them this close, cuz im a bitch and dont like buying new pistons/top end if anything goes wrong
light brown ceramic / grey-white electrode = lean, will start eating a lil aluminum off the top of the piston.
gray white everywhere = boom boom holes deto, preignition time.

110 for me, I run purple VP 110 leaded, and the chocolate syrup brown plug has a bit, to a lot of an orange tinge to it, when running straight 110. may not be noticeable with 20% 110 mix.
 
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