Questions about Painting.

Shane_744

Choppin' it up.
Ok, I have a 1993 Waveblaster I am halfway through teardown. I got this for $1000 with trailer! Guy didn't know what he had. Runs perfect, lower hose on waterbox is leaking but not a big deal. I have aftermarket rideplate/intake grate and a UMI steering setup waiting for install.

I am working on the old (Sano?) ride turf now. I plan on tearing it down all the way and taking the parts to a local auto body shop. I am not going to try and paint myself, no way! I already talked to the guy and he gave me a quote of $400-500, whole ski, hull and everything. I am just doing one color and then will add a graphics kit. I told him he would need to fix hairline cracks and chips on edges/bolt holes.

I have searched the board but with limited painting experience it's kinda confusing since 10 guys can paint 10 different ways. I just don't want to pay for the paint job and it be crap down the road.

Questions

1. Any specific paint or primers I need to tell the painter to be sure and use?

What primer will work?

What type of paint?

Clearcoat?

2. What about hairline cracks and chips around bolt holes and edges? Could I sand these and help on the labor? Grit number?

3. Any sanding I can do to save on labor?

Thanks for any help.
Shane
 

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ive used ppg one stage paint on two skis now and it has turned out great and has held up really good i used ford ultra white about the brightest white you can get very easy to do too
 

cmeripper26

Ripper26
Location
Connecticut
If your going to scuff up the gel coat real smooth, you can shoot your primer coat with a two part epoxy with a mid temp activator, assuming your hooting in your garage or paint tent. As far as your base coat you should use a urethane based auto body paint. Your epoxy based primer works as a primer and a minor filler for all the hairline sanding scratches. For your clear coat if you are clear coating Nasson Finish which is a dupont product makes a urethane based clear which works really well. If you do shoot with these kind of auto paints be sure to wear a respirator. You can check my ski out under ski build ups forum 05' SXR 800 summer 08' build
 
Location
ANGOLA
If your going to scuff up the gel coat real smooth, you can shoot your primer coat with a two part epoxy with a mid temp activator, assuming your hooting in your garage or paint tent. As far as your base coat you should use a urethane based auto body paint. Your epoxy based primer works as a primer and a minor filler for all the hairline sanding scratches. For your clear coat if you are clear coating Nasson Finish which is a dupont product makes a urethane based clear which works really well. If you do shoot with these kind of auto paints be sure to wear a respirator. You can check my ski out under ski build ups forum 05' SXR 800 summer 08' build

i would do most of this but not the epoxy primer my self. i would use a two part urethere for more flexablty. dont prime the whole thing unless you have to. make sure its sanded very good and most hair lines come back if you cant sand them out first.
my 2 cents
 

cmeripper26

Ripper26
Location
Connecticut
Epoxy based primers will flex as the gel coat does but will also act as a buffer to contain the gel coat from those hairline stress cracks that tend to show up in the gel coat after some hard riding from the fiber glass flexing a bit. Epoxy based autobody primer is the way to go, with it you get the best of both worlds, as its a primer and filler.
 
If your going to scuff up the gel coat real smooth, you can shoot your primer coat with a two part epoxy with a mid temp activator, assuming your hooting in your garage or paint tent. As far as your base coat you should use a urethane based auto body paint. Your epoxy based primer works as a primer and a minor filler for all the hairline sanding scratches. For your clear coat if you are clear coating Nasson Finish which is a dupont product makes a urethane based clear which works really well. If you do shoot with these kind of auto paints be sure to wear a respirator. You can check my ski out under ski build ups forum 05' SXR 800 summer 08' build

Epoxy based primers will flex as the gel coat does but will also act as a buffer to contain the gel coat from those hairline stress cracks that tend to show up in the gel coat after some hard riding from the fiber glass flexing a bit. Epoxy based autobody primer is the way to go, with it you get the best of both worlds, as its a primer and filler.

Yep, what he said ^
 

Shane_744

Choppin' it up.
Thanks for the help guys.

Ok, to sum it up...

Primer: Two-part exopy based with medium temp activator

Base: Urethane based

Clearcoat : Nasson Finish (Dupont)

I'll have a chat with the paint guy and see what we can come up with.

One or two more questions.
I am about done with the teardown (minus pulling the motor and some wires).
What would be a good sand paper grit to smooth everything up so i can have it somewhat prepped for the painter?

How far do i need to sand to?
In some chips i can see three layers. Burple, cream color and then the fiberglassing.

Also, what is a good cleaner for the old stickers. I used xtreme goo off to remove the old turf. Worked good but it doesn't seem to want to take off all the residue from some older stickers. I am sure sanding will remove these.

I know it's alot of probably easy questions but you guys are helping me out greatly.
 
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cmeripper26

Ripper26
Location
Connecticut
Your final sanding before primer should be a 400 or 600 grit which will give you just enough texture for the primer to fill and adhere but will still feel smooth. As far as removing decal residue, just use acetone and a rag. You don't have to use a Nasson finish clear coat just have to be sure your using a urethane based clear with the urethane based paints. If you want to repair your minor dings you can either use a light weight body filler or even better if you use a fairing compound. This all depends on how big the gouges are?
 

Shane_744

Choppin' it up.
Gotcha. There is no damage bigger than a dime on the whole ski. I can only think of one spot where that is. It's in really good shape. There are a few hairline cracks here and there but nothing that cant be repaired easily.

Thanks for the help.
 
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