Reassembling superjet engine - Use Anti-Seize or Thread lock?
- Thread starter menatep
- Start date
Cannibal
Tasty Human
- Location
- Summit Lake, WA
Having been in the automotive industry, there have been a lot of different views on the standard silver anti-seize vs the copper. Some shops only use one. Some shops only use the other. A very high end performance car shop I worked in only used moly based lube for spark plugs, anti-seize was strictly forbidden. I've heard something about galvanic corrosion when using copper anti-seize on aluminum. I have personally never had an issue using any of the options, so I don't really have an opinion either way.
I'm interested to hear what others have to say.
I'm interested to hear what others have to say.
- Location
- savannah/hilton head
i use anti seize on stuff like the starter bolts, case bolts i use blue lock tite head and girdle i dont use anything cuz my chit all ways needs to come apart for something.
- Location
- Raleigh NC\Lake Jordan
They are for different purposes. I put locktite on things that shouldn't come unfasened like case bolts, cylinder bolts, anything on the engine essentially. I put anti seize on the rest
Cannibal
Tasty Human
- Location
- Summit Lake, WA
The loctite vs anti-seize is going to be a matter of opinion. If you ride fresh water, corrosion isn't really a big deal, so I'd assemble the engine like the book says and put loctite and anti-seize everywhere it specifies for each. There are surf riders that use anti-seize everywhere because corrosion is a major concern when in salt.
I ride in fresh water.
Manual has these specs...
- Loctite 271 (RED) for 7 engine mount brackets bolts, exhaust bolts, and some 4 engine mounting bolts...
- Loctite 572 (WHITE) for 6 cylinder body bolts, 10 cylinder head bolts, 8 crankcase bolts, coupling nut, impeller and coupling.
- Loctite 242 (BLUE) is to be used only on the reed bolts, Ride plate bolts, and reed valve bolts.
Those of you who claim to use anti seize on all bolts, you don't have problems with bolts falling out?
Did anyone substitute Loctite 572 (WHITE) for Loctite 242 (BLUE)? Loctite 572 is pretty much the equivalent of a pipe sealer.
Manual has these specs...
- Loctite 271 (RED) for 7 engine mount brackets bolts, exhaust bolts, and some 4 engine mounting bolts...
- Loctite 572 (WHITE) for 6 cylinder body bolts, 10 cylinder head bolts, 8 crankcase bolts, coupling nut, impeller and coupling.
- Loctite 242 (BLUE) is to be used only on the reed bolts, Ride plate bolts, and reed valve bolts.
Those of you who claim to use anti seize on all bolts, you don't have problems with bolts falling out?
Did anyone substitute Loctite 572 (WHITE) for Loctite 242 (BLUE)? Loctite 572 is pretty much the equivalent of a pipe sealer.
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Your post IMO is probably the rule of thumb: salt vs. fresh water.Most of the skis and engines l'll put together over the years have been with locktite and anti-seize where it specifies.And never had any issues.l always think about vibration and having to dig those bolts and screws out from under the bedplate.l ride fresh water 90% of the time.
The engine l got for the stunt from xscream uses 1211 3bond on the exhaust manifold bolts.That was new to me.
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- Location
- Texas
I was thinking of using this. I read about it a few months ago here on The X.
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80632-Thread-Sealant-Teflon/dp/B000HBNTGY
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80632-Thread-Sealant-Teflon/dp/B000HBNTGY
227
Its all about the surf!
- Location
- Oceanside, CA
Bro I ride 100% surf and I ride a lot, approx 3 times a week all year. I Anti sieze EVERYTHING threaded on my ski, Case bolts, head bolts, carb bolts, motormount bolts, even tiny odi grip bolts, I mean EVERYTHING with silver Antisieze. I HAVE NEVER had any bolts vibrate lose EVER. Even though it says Lubricant on the bottle, Anti sieze is not a lubricant, its a corrostion inhibitor that if any thing gums up and acts similar to blue locktite.
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Copper anti-seize is for iron parts subject to high temps, not good for watercraft. Silver (zinc) anti-seize is general purpose and suitable for aluminum since it (zinc) is lower on the galvanic scale. Long bolts never need loctite because they stretch a lot and will always have tension. Only short bolts can benefit from loctite because they cannot stretch much and any movement and fretting between parts will remove tension making the bolt loose. Its best to keep water out than to deal with once its there so white teflon thread sealant is best for long bolts, I use it on everything. Plus you want to be able to re-torque head and exhaust bolts after the first heat soak. Yamahas' recommendations are ideal but I have never found a need for loctite on the engine. BTW, use less torque at first if you butter up the threads and bolt heads because they will be easier to turn.
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I put marine grease on everything, 100% salt or brackish water riding only. If you torque and align 
correctly you should almost never have to worry about something loosening.
I only use locktite(red, never blue) on things that I don't want loosening. i.e. Pole bolts and steering nut.
correctly you should almost never have to worry about something loosening.I only use locktite(red, never blue) on things that I don't want loosening. i.e. Pole bolts and steering nut.