Repairing loose insert for pump
- Thread starter Ashauer
- Start date
- Location
- Long Island
are you planning on cutting the tray open at all? if not what i would do esp if your shortening the hull so you will have fiberglass work to do is figure out where that insert is located exactly on the top side of the tray take a smaller hole saw and cut out the fiberglass above the insert and pop it out from the bottom up. Then replace the insert if needed, epoxy it in place and then glass back over it . you will never see it under the turf and you wont have to repair the pump area and repaint.
I wasn't planning on cutting the tray, but I've thought about what you said and taking a hole saw on the top side of the tray. What brand of epoxy should I use to glue it in and where would I get a insert. The ski is getting new paint so I'm not worried about ruining it. Also the ski is part carbon/fiberglass.
Last edited:
- Location
- Long Island
ok sounds good yea cutting open the top side is def the best way i could think of bc the inserts are normally set into the fiberglass mold but not 100% about a 24-7 hull. Alot of people on here swear by west systems g flex or just use thickened resin with cabosil. make sure you lightly grease the new bolt, screw it flush with the top of the insert ( grease will stop bonding to the treads of the bolt or insert) and use gflex or resin to seal it over. Then once its dried fix the tray. no paint work needed and should be an easy fix
tokarzl
itching my arms
- Location
- Here and there around NY
In order to get to the bolt you will need to get access into the tray. Just cut out a square or circle in the tray above the bolt, save the piece you cut out so you can put it back. You can use an insert off of another hull or just use a block of SS drilled and tapped to the correct size and pitch. Make sure you take the old adhesive material out and scuff it to accept the new adhesive. Put grease or wax on the bolt when you run it into the block so that glass or epoxy will not stick to it. Put a nice "bead" around the block so it will seal but not get all over the threads. Once you have it in place (I would recommend bolting your pump in so it is correctly aligned!!!) you can cover the block with more adhesive. Make sure it’s smooth with no sharp angles so you can put a layer of glass or carbon over it to secure it properly. (optional but recommended)
Once it is cured you can then apply a layer of glass or carbon on top depending on the material the hull was made with will decide the resin (or just use epoxy) ...... if you do not have access to fiber glassing materials just adhesive will take care of it but for an unknown amount of time.
If indeed you can get your hands on epoxy resin and milled fibers this is the easiest option. Mix epoxy and hardener to manufacturers spec, mix well, add milled fibers (fiberglass dust, please wear a mask) until it is the consistency of peanut butter. Apply it as mentioned above^^. After its "green" not fully cured you can add a layer of fiberglass to seal it off and keep it in place.
I would not recommend purchasing cheap polyester resin from Home Depot, Lowes, Advanced Auto.
After you are completed inside of the tray you can take that square you cut out and re glass it in.
Remember always scuff areas will gel coat or paint so that the resin will adhere to it correctly. Any supplier like us composites, Merton’s fiberglass, west marine will carry these products
I use Fast Hardener epoxy resin, 1/32 milled fibers, and a 7-12 oz cloth for inserts.
hope this helps good luck, don’t be afraid its just fiberglass they make more every day!
Once it is cured you can then apply a layer of glass or carbon on top depending on the material the hull was made with will decide the resin (or just use epoxy) ...... if you do not have access to fiber glassing materials just adhesive will take care of it but for an unknown amount of time.
If indeed you can get your hands on epoxy resin and milled fibers this is the easiest option. Mix epoxy and hardener to manufacturers spec, mix well, add milled fibers (fiberglass dust, please wear a mask) until it is the consistency of peanut butter. Apply it as mentioned above^^. After its "green" not fully cured you can add a layer of fiberglass to seal it off and keep it in place.
I would not recommend purchasing cheap polyester resin from Home Depot, Lowes, Advanced Auto.
After you are completed inside of the tray you can take that square you cut out and re glass it in.
Remember always scuff areas will gel coat or paint so that the resin will adhere to it correctly. Any supplier like us composites, Merton’s fiberglass, west marine will carry these products
I use Fast Hardener epoxy resin, 1/32 milled fibers, and a 7-12 oz cloth for inserts.
hope this helps good luck, don’t be afraid its just fiberglass they make more every day!
baxt3r
BBQ
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
So, what's the procedure for doing this if you don't want to go from the top and returf?
- Location
- Long Island
Baxt3r id say try to push up the insert put some epoxy in the hole under the insert, try to line it up the best you can pull the insert back down as tight as I could. Let it set then try to work the bolt loose and pray haha