Reverse Gel Coat?

Midlake Crisis

Site Supporter
Location
Bakersfield, CA
I am re-shaping the bond rail and nose on my now rockered SN, I have built up reinforcement on inside and out. I am not expecting professional results. After the shaping is complete, can I just brush on 2 or 3 thin layers of epoxy resin to seal up pinholes from fairing compound and smooth out rough glass surface, then sand the resin and prime and paint?
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Yes. Don't use the cheap chip brushes as they can drop bristles. The nicer chip brushes are about $1.50 and don't fall apart. Cheap ones are fine for layup but you don't want to have to sand bristles out of your finish.

You can also use epoxy mixed with talc instead of fairing compound if you so choose. Talc will not leave pin holes like microspheres but sands easier than cabosil.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
$0.50 harbor fright brush on the left. Great for layup, but drops lots of bristles into finish during epoxy coating. I used to use an exacto knife to pick them out while it was still wet enough to not leave marks.

Right is $1.50 brush made for epoxy. Doesn't fall apart although not a bad idea to have that exacto knife handy just incase.

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Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
@Midlake Crisis

I'm not sure if you have to order supplies or have a composite dealer local. Talc = talcum powder = baby powder. You can get talc at any store. Might come out a tad greenish due to the fragrances added but nothing a good primer job won't fix.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Thanks Vumad! I may just get this thing done by Spring.

You're welcome. I'm happy to help out. I haven't worked on my projects much since I got hurt. I haven't really been able to get much done. I enjoy living vicariously through the projects of others. Plus, I genuinely like helping people.
 
At the stage your at I'd shoot a coat of 2K primer on it. It high build so it will naturally fill most of the pinholes. It will also give you a solid color so you can see how good or bad your work is. Then you would sand the primerwith a light grit sandpaper by hand to see the smaller imperfections. Then iether improve on the shape or if its ok then fill the rest of the pinholes. The pinholes are easiest found in primer rather than anything else.

For pinholes use Fast N Final. Its not sticky or goey. Its spreads easily into pinholes with your finger. Dries fast and sands easily. It comes white but i learned from an old pro that if you tint it with chalk line chalk its easier to see where you smeared it so you dont miss a spot before your final prime.

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Midlake Crisis

Site Supporter
Location
Bakersfield, CA
Interesting - I am really surprised at the Fast N Final - I would have assumed it wouldn't hold up in wet conditions, thanks for the input. I got quite a bit done tonight on shaping the nose cover so it won't be too long til I start trying your guys' tips.
 
The only thing that should be getting wet is your clear coat. Your color coat and your primer coat and any filler or glass or whatnot should never see or touch water. Fast n Final is just for pinholes. Its a minute ammount trapped inbetween inner layers.
 
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