- Location
- south carolina
what are the best screw settings for low - mid range power? mainly a surf boat, so top-end isn't important. it's a mod chamber. thanks
setting factory pipe up for low-mid
- Thread starter clkwrkorg36
- Start date
- Location
- Muskegon Michigan
Im wondering the same thing but i have the limited pipe. I have heard that you can open all the settings a 1/2 turn out. What are you guys running?
Thanks
Mike
Thanks
Mike
When I had a mod pipe on my 701 I opened the middle screw 1/2 turn
- Location
- Great North West
It is custom to every ski, that is why there are 3 screws that have a lot of adjustment. Differing pump pressure, incoming water temp, motor temp, water line routing, there are so many factors. Go to factory pipes web site and read their tuning page, They will give you the overall theory. They have way more time tuning head pipes than anyone. Just for your info I am running triple cooling at 30psi on a sport port with 35cc ada. In 50degree water best bottom end 1/4 turn out on top screw, bottom and middle are closed.
FlightPlanDan
Don'tTrustAfartAfter50
- Location
- Crescent Beach, FL
Factory pipe recommended settings for low end worked well for my wifes bone stock ski.
They did not work well for mine..(lots of bolt-ons)
Trial and error sux...mostly because of the bottom screw.
I feel for ya.
They did not work well for mine..(lots of bolt-ons)
Trial and error sux...mostly because of the bottom screw.
I feel for ya.
Octane_114
LeT tHe gOOd tImEs RoLL
- Location
- Charleston S.C.
best for bottom end (i have all kawasaki's) is bottom and middle closed. top open. start at 2 turns out fully open, then turn (close) it down. be sure to check temp. it you're not running a jetworks water valve, it will give you a little extra. 1 of the best mods i think. you will notice it!
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raytherace
Canadian Brapp Dealer
- Location
- St-Ray Beach, QC
This setup was succesfull for me
https://www.wamiltons.com/pdfs/WamMod.jpg
https://www.wamiltons.com/pdfs/WamMod.jpg
- Location
- Idaho
The top screw on the headipe will move the power band lower in the RPM range. The screw on the bottom of the headpipe will move the power band in the upper RPM range. The RPM range in which the pipe will "come on" will be different for every boat. It is best to try a combination of all three screws when setting up your pipe.
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SkiDiggity
formerly kawirider142
depends what you are running, mine are both at 1 1/2 turns on the top out and closed on the mid and maybe like 1/2 turn on the bottom. one of mine both are closed on the mid and bottom and just have the top open and it runs great!
raytherace
Canadian Brapp Dealer
- Location
- St-Ray Beach, QC
top of the head to bottom of the headpipe. other top head to outside and the top headpipe to the outside like draw on the picture. and both from the pump into the manifold.
Octane_114
LeT tHe gOOd tImEs RoLL
- Location
- Charleston S.C.
that's how I run mine
- Location
- michigan
Maybe some guys buy the pipes used, but it says right in the directions on were to start. bottom screw closest to coupler is the screw for top end. mid screw being mid range, and top screw being low end. i usually start by closing both bottom and mid screws and just open top. But like many have stated every ski is dif.
masterblaster
X-H2
This guy sounds like he knows what he is talking about,I find this to work the best also for low end power and response,Although The amount of turns out a given screw is on a particular head pipe means very little once you are open more than 1/2 to 3/4 turn.The pressure you supply to the b pipe has a HUGE effect on how the power band comes on. the pressure you supply is effected by a few things,from the size pump fittings all the way up to if you plum the pipe on its own cooling line,to the pressure on the jetworks valve and the size restrictor you use in the other side of the y split from the stinger overboard. I also find that setting your top screw to the perfect spot where the screw is down just enough to give you a really fine spray mist makes the best response,this is usually less than 3/4 turn out. I hook a garden hose necked down to fit the lower cooling inlet,I use the cooling line out of the ski with the y fitting and restrictor and jetworks valve installed to set for that sweet spot. put a gauge on your cooling line coming out of the head pipe and find your default pressure with your ski in water and nose into the dock and full throttle or if your brave ride it with the hood off to get a true reading. even certain cylinders and heads effect pressure as well as the size and number of cooling fitting you use on them.
One of the days we were tuning the true performance 965,on a newly ceramic coated headpipe,I found out some retard threw in the tumbler and got polishing balls all inside the water jacket....after riding a few min on couple b pipe water screw settings,all the sudden the power came on MUCH better for low end and responce.I noticed I had lost cooling to the top pisser,the one coming off the y split to jetworks valve. took it in and found that a bead had gotten stuck in the top cooling line and totally closed it off. This increased the pressure in the headpipe and made a huge diff. Some others there thought the diff was just cause the pipe heated up and the water box dried out. Ive found that with a jetworks valve,riding around testing low end response and power,they dont open much at all,same test nose in to dock at full throttle blips with jetworks valve disconnected from stinger. check when flow starts..I find a resrtictor on the jetworks valve useful as well. Ive heated the pipe up with almost completly closing all screwss and disconnected the stinger water completely to see if it makes anywhere near as much diff as more water pressure using restrictions to the head pipe outlet with the top screw open and it just doesn't even come close...some people just refuse to get it...try it for yourself.... you will lose some top end and a few rpms but your motor will come off bottom and mid HARD.The motor doesnt stay on the pipe up top,thusly if you or someone else rides your ski and wrings its neck wide open,the motor makes WAY less heat and is way less likely to seize with this kinda pipe setting...win win in my book if you could care less about ever racing.
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