Ski Tuning

Location
Oregon
I am newish to the standup jet ski world and have had to rebuild my ski a couple times now, but have never known how to properly tune it to maximize efficiency. Does anyone know where I can find out more about tuning my ski? I have searched the forums on this site, but haven't seen anything that goes into depth on the subject.

Also, my current ski doesn't have a primer so I consistently squirt fuel into the engine to get it started every time I want to ride. I was thinking of installing a primer, but noticed many of the professionals don't use a primer. Is there any specific reason for this?

Thanks in advance for any assistance.
 
Location
dfw
Most basic tuning can be accomplished with a tachometer. Make sure to start with modest compression and ignition timing. Its easy to really hurt response and acceleration with too much pump load so make sure its turning enough rpm. The pipe will determine where that rpm needs to be. Stock Kawasakis and superjets need to turn in the high 6000s, a wet pipe typically needs to be around 7000. Dry pipes need more than that, race boats with raised ports turn 7700. You can use a tachometer to set the carburetors main circuit. Find peak RPM on glass water then open the top screw to slow it down a little. This setting will often give good response and a safe full throttle mixture. Set the pilot jet by how well it responds from 1/4 throttle. They usually need to be sputtering rich in order to get the best response. If it sounds clean then its probably too lean. The bottom screw is for idle only, that can be set out of the water. Close it until the engine races then open to slow it back down. The pump loading is very important but also the most difficult and/or expensive since you have to bend or change the impeller. Chokes and primers are for cold starts, they may not be on a "pros" ski but its getting primed and started in the pits.
 
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Location
Oregon
How would you go about finding the peak rpm while riding the ski? Would you not need to look at the tachometer while the ski is running? What do you mean by "too lean" and "sputtering rich?" What is pump loading? So there's no specific reason I shouldn't install a primer?
Most basic tuning can be accomplished with a tachometer. Make sure to start with modest compression and ignition timing. Its easy to really hurt response and acceleration with too much pump load so make sure its turning enough rpm. The pipe will determine where that rpm needs to be. Stock Kawasakis and superjets need to turn in the high 6000s, a wet pipe typically needs to be around 7000. Dry pipes need more than that, race boats with raised ports turn 7700. You can use a tachometer to set the carburetors main circuit. Find peak RPM on glass water then open the top screw to slow it down a little. This setting will often give good response and a safe full throttle mixture. Set the pilot jet by how well it responds from 1/4 throttle. They usually need to be sputtering rich in order to get the best response. If it sounds clean then its probably too lean. The bottom screw is for idle only, that can be set out of the water. Close it until the engine races then open to slow it back down. The pump loading is very important but also the most difficult and/or expensive since you have to bend or change the impeller. Chokes and primers are for cold starts, they may not be on a "pros" ski but its getting primed and started in the pi
 

Half flip95

Formerly pondracer95
Low speed jet in combination with the low speed adjuster. Skis that pull hard start easy. Primers are helpful when you take on water and need to get that thing fired or if the ski hasn’t been ran in awhile.
 

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WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
One of the main differences between the Mikuni performance carbs and the stock carbs is the low speed circuit, stock carbs are designed to meet emissions, they can be modded for other purposes, the performance Mikuni carbs are designed for performance and flow a lot more fuel in the low speed circuit.
 
Location
dfw
What is the pilot circuit?
I don't think you will find what you need on the internet without getting some experience first. Finding someone to teach you how to tune and maintain a ski is the easiest way. I started on my own with some general aeromotive tech courses out of highschool. Then spent a couple of seasons tuning, porting, and often melting pistons. That was 30 years ago. Now my skis run well enough and last a very long time.
 
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WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
I was lucky enough to start out on 440's and 550's back then it was pretty simple, nose the ski against the bank, set the high speed to get the highest pitch out of the engine then come out about 1/2 richer on the high speed screw , set the low speed for the best idle then set the mid screw to get the transition circuit dialed in, no dicking with jets or popoff springs because 44NNs didn't have replaceable jets.

Then along came the SBNs and you have a myriad of options , four different needle and seat sizes , too many pilot and main jets to count and four different strength popoff springs. Get a Mikuni tuning manual, read it and understand how the carb works and which circuit does what before you start turning screws and messing with jets, spings and screw settings.

 
Location
Oregon
I appreciate all the assistance. I assume pretty much all carbs are tuned the same way and are they the only thing you can tune?
 
Location
Oregon
I don't think you will find what you need on the internet without getting some experience first. Finding someone to teach you how to tune and maintain a ski is the easiest way. I started on my own with some general aeromotive tech courses out of highschool. Then spent a couple of seasons tuning, porting, and often melting pistons. That was 30 years ago. Now my skis run well enough and last a very long time.
I was afraid of that. I don't personally know anyone that participates in this sport that could help me so I've always resorted to this site to learn more. I was going to attempt to figure it out on my own, but it seems more complicated than I was expecting. It would be nice to know someone that could personally teach me and would be willing to help.
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
Simply put get a note pad , slowly turn in your high and low adjusters and carefully count the number of turns, lets say for instance you are at 3/4 of a turn out now, write that down on the note pad or you can write it inside the hood of the ski with a sharpie, now you have your baseline settings that you can always go back to.

Once you have the adjusters returned to the baseline settings, then you can start playing with the settings , as long as you are turning the screws out , its pretty hard to mess anything up as you are adding fuel to the mixture and you can always go back to the stock settings.

In your case I would start with the low speed screw, turn it out 1 full turn from where it is now, see how it cranks and runs at that setting , most stock Yamaha skis are set way too lean on the pilot screw , sometimes you can come out a turn to a turn and 1/2 from the stock settings on the low speed screw and fix the starting issue plus it will pull better off the bottom , just realize when you do this that it will also affect the idle and you may have to turn the idle adjuster in as well to get the idle correct.

How far you can turn it out depends on where it is set at now, lets go back say we are at 3/4 turn on the low speed screw, one turn out is 1 3/4 , a turn and a half is 2 1/4 , regardless you never go past three turns or the adjuster will fall out while you are riding the ski.

The basic rule of thumb is that if you need to go more than 1 turn out from the stock settings you need to put in a bigger jet size. This applies to both pilot and high speed screws. This pilot or low speed adjustment does have some impact on the high speed adjuster setting but it is minimal, at most you might want to go 1/8 to 1/4 turn in on the high speed after you get the low speed set, most times I leave the high speed adjuster alone and it runs fine.

On the jet sizes this can be confusing but lets keep it really simple , lets say you have a 70 pilot jet and you can get it to run and start well at 2 turns out, you can leave it there or you can go up one size on the pilot jet to a 75 pilot and readjust the low speed screw.

Of course with the bigger pilot it will be too rich at 2 turns out so you have to lean it out, you do this in 1/4 turn increments, turn it in 1/4 see how it cranks and takes off, go another 1/4 turn, when you get to the point where it bogs taking off you have gone too far, back it out a 1/4 turn and retest it.

There are other funky jet sizes in between 70 and 75 like a 72.5 , leave those alone, they are half sizes and you don't need to be that precise, thats what the adjusters are there for.

I have seen numerous skis that came in and were hard to start even with the choke on go from nearly running the battery down to start the ski to cranking before you could get your finger off the start button without using the choke just by doing this small amount of tuning on the carbs.
 
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WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
I probably could adjust it by ear on the trailer and make it run correctly, but yeah I have been doing it for a minute now.
For the issue he stated what I posted will work.

Teaching someone to properly tune a ski is a bit like feeding a baby, you can't start them out on steak and potatoes or they will choke to death.
 
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