Stock 62t ignition voltage draw

mr.fixitman760

mr.fixitman760

if it aint broke, dont fix it
Location
St. Clair, MI
I'm running stock 62t ignition with enhanser on my 850 BAM, I noticed this problem last season but couldn't find out what's causing the draw, basically I put the battery in the ski and can start it multiple times with no issue, let it sit for a day with the battery connected and it's still good, but I let it sit for a week, push the button and nothing... battery reads .018 volts, thinking it was the battery I charged it up and let it sit on my bench for 4 months solid, drop it in the ski and it fires right up with no hesitation... has anyone had an MSD box drain their battery before? I've tried everything else I can think of, I have the exact same ignition setup in my SN and can leave the battery in it for weeks on end and fires every time, the battery in it is on its 3rd straight season without charge, any suggestions are appreciated!
 
jetpilot36

jetpilot36

Location
Fort Worth
what kind of battery? and did you disconnect the negative cable and check for a voltage draw? I would disconnect the negative cable. get a small 12v light bulb with the socket and two wires on it( like a glove box light or something) and touch one end to the battery negative. touch the other end to the disconnected negative battery cable. if it lights up, you have a draw. now disconnect stuff one by one until you isolate the draw. (bilge, enhancer, start stop switch, etc)
 
mr.fixitman760

mr.fixitman760

if it aint broke, dont fix it
Location
St. Clair, MI
So I tested the ignition and there's no draw but when I test the bilge pump I get the battery voltage, yet the pump dosnt come on unless I flip the switch, I'm totally confused as to how that works
 
OCD Solutions

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
I have seen a failing bilge switch pass enough voltage to drain the battery but not actually turn the pump. It's a high resistance short.

A failed rotary switch is what actually got me started on the path to making my own switches.
 
mr.fixitman760

mr.fixitman760

if it aint broke, dont fix it
Location
St. Clair, MI
Now that makes alot of sense, but I'm using the blowsion switch that mounts under the start/stop, is it possible that could be making contact somewhere to cause this?
 
OCD Solutions

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
Yes. I had one of their original switches and found that the insulation broke down on the wiring running up the handpole and was my battery drain. I was able to cut out and splice in a new section of wire and get another year out of the switch...and it was already over 7 years old at that time.
 
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mr.fixitman760

mr.fixitman760

if it aint broke, dont fix it
Location
St. Clair, MI
Ah I see, well I guess I'll be leaving it disconnected until I really need it but when I get some spare time I'll look into tracing it and see if I can fix it, but thanks alot for the advice!
 
OCD Solutions

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
No problem. CPI uses a paper filiment in between their conductors which traps water and starts to rot the rubber insulation over time. Best to look for the joint where they splice on the extra length and replace it from there.
 
Dartman

Dartman

Location
usa
if your battery drain doesn't go away after disconnecting the bilge switch
replace the rectifier/voltage regulator
if a diode goes bad you will have a slow battery kill
 
augustaf

augustaf

Location
central florida
OCD Solutions said:
No problem. CPI uses a paper filiment in between their conductors which traps water and starts to rot the rubber insulation over time. Best to look for the joint where they splice on the extra length and replace it from there.
Click to expand...
Sadly, most vendors now sell an inexpensive model CPI switch which is not really suitable for frequent submersion. Better switches are available from CPI, I have some in use for almost 25 years that are still like new, recycled on several skis- pics on request.
Below is a switch sold by www.mcmaster.com, submersible, somewhat affordable, also fits the Blowsion h/p bracket but has short leads:

Pendant Switches with Cable
6944k12p1s.png

D
Already wired, these switches are ready to operate your mobile machinery. Switches spring back (momentary) except Style D, which stays switched (maintained).

(C-J) Sealed switches withstand dirt, water, and corrosion. Color is black except Style F, which is yellow. Styles C-E are IP68 rated for continuous submersion in water.


Cable

No. of
Circuits Before Switching,
Circuit Is Industry
Designation Amp Rating @
120V AC/ 24V DC Max. Voltage,
AC/DC Lg. Wd. Ht. Lg. AWG Each
Sealed Switches
(D) Push-Button (On/Off)











1 Off 1 NO 5/15 120/28 1 7/8" 13/16" 5/16" 1 1/2 ft. 16/2 6944K12 $80.89


Product Detail
Pendant Switch with Cable, Push-Button (On/Off), 1 NO, 5 Amps @ 120V AC
Each
In stock








 
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