SXR sxr factory dry pipe oilleaking from coupler

[tjlikegofast]

hey guys i got a factory dry pipe on my 11 sxr, ever since day 1 withthis pipe there has always been oil leaking from where the coupler slides over the pipe. anyone figured out a way to stop this?? i have a oil towel just sitting in my hull to keep oil from staining my ski, but am getting tired of seeing the nasty black oil everytime i open the hood, wondering if u might have any sugestions

 

[TheBuzzard]

thats just the way those dry pipes are on the sxr. once the O-rings start leaking at all, the black crap just runs out. thats why the blue silicone sleeve over the joint. without that, the oil sprays everywhere. what O-rings did you use? the very soft garbage ones or the hard good ones?

 

[djkorn1]

Those dry pipes suck. Tighten down your coupler with a ratchet not a screwdriver.

 

[TheBuzzard]

Those dry pipes suck. Tighten down your coupler with a ratchet not a screwdriver.

thats not how it works and those dry pipes are great for creating power.

 

[wanderer1]

Get a 650SX coupler,When you assemble chamber to manifold don't grease the O-Rings,use windex to slip them together. And the soft orings don't last long like Buzzard brought up.

 

[tjlikegofast]

i bought brand new from fpp. so its the oem rings, there is nothing to tighten down just a silicon coupler slips over seam.this pipe is brand new and has done it since first ride. didnt know if there was something to do to fix this. do they make an oversized couplet that i can put 2 band clamps on to secure coupler in place

 

[Texan33]

I have the similar problem on my 11' SXR. I'm looking for a tighter silicone sleeve for better seal.

Wanderer1, aren't the 650sx sleeve like 4" in diameter and the dry pipe sleeve are 3.75"?

 

[TheBuzzard]

the silicone sleeve is not designed to seal anything, it just stops the oil from blowing in all directions. back in the day, we would pack the O-rings and grooves with silicone and that lasted a lot longer. it also made the whole pipe more rigid, which made them crack even more that they already do.

 

[Texan33]

the silicone sleeve is not designed to seal anything, it just stops the oil from blowing in all directions. back in the day, we would pack the O-rings and grooves with silicone and that lasted a lot longer. it also made the whole pipe more rigid, which made them crack even more that they already do.

I should have be more clear on the "seal" part but hey. Your message just gave me a different idea. Thanks, Buzzard.

 

[jetpilot808]

http://www.jetskisolutions.com/inst..._Solutions_Type_4_8_9_coupler_kit_and_st.html This is a great solution to your problem, just did mine and so far so good.....it's solid. Summit racing has great selection of silicone couplers. And this is the stuff I used for filling the coupler with... https://www.google.com/#q=copper+ga...cp.r_qf.&fp=b04c6ef103dbc8a4&biw=1093&bih=558

 

[two81's]

If you have an oring supplier near you, you could get an oring with a higher durometer(I think) number. Durometer would be the hardness of the oring.

 

[restosud]

make sure pipe is mounted correctly.try pushing it forward when you tighten the head mounts to compress the rings a bit.also use a 650 coupler with 2 hose clamps and good to go

 

[Mentzel]

I used one wide clamp in the middle. Seems to work. Why FP did not use a flange and gasket is beyond me...

 

[just joe]

Zero clamps, zero oil, 2 seasons on same coupler and going strong. Set up the pipe alignment correctly as everyone says (I pulled the motor and did it on a bench). Then when you are back in the ski, the most important part - the exhaust hose fit to stinger. Given the shape of the pipe, the stinger has a lot of leverage on the coupler/o-rings. Manipulate the exhaust hose until the stinger slides in without any up/down/right/left force.

When installing the o-rings I wipe them, the coupler hose, and the pipe with acetone. I then use a little exhaust silicone (dark gray stuff) in the groove, on the o-ring perimeter, and on the inside of the coupler hose.

 

[IceRocket1286]

A lot of people would run a kawi 650 coupler with some hose clamps to contain the oil. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I think that is the model of ski used. Look on pwtoday, a thread pops up every so often on it. There is no way to completely stop the leaking, it is just the nature of the design. This is the same design used on the XPL 951 twin pipes (If I remember correctly) and is actually a good setup. Alignment is HUGE in the longevity of the O-Rings. Do not be afraid to open up the hole in your stainless bracket with the rubber damper to move the damper so it is lined up appropriately without flexing too far in one direction. I have found that this helps a lot. Aligning the stinger portion of the pipe is critical as well. Mock it up without the gas tank in (if your ski is apart) so that you can comfortably reach the waterbox and adjust it accordingly.

As far as O-Rings go, I went to a local store that specializes in custom seals and took them my 3 FPP O-Rings. They brought me 20 of each ring and I walked out paying about 35 bucks for the whole lot. I still have a bunch and I generally replace the O-ings every time I take the pipe off because it is easy enough to do. Make sure you get BUNA-N type O-Rings for heat and fuel resistance.

Lastly the dry pipe hits way better and makes more power than the wet pipe. I love the wet pipe but I love the Dry pipe way more, no questions asked. It is a bit more maintenance but I really don't mind it as I do not put the hours on it that I use to.

Before I forget- make sure you run a girdle kit with the dry pipe or you an kiss your cylinders goodbye much sooner than you'd think!