tdc indicators

Pablo

sqeez bth levrs & lean bk
Site Supporter
Location
georgia
what's the best gauge/tool to use to determine tdc? can i use a compression gauge and just watch the compression hit it's max? i was looking on the web for one of those dial indicators for tdc. i've never used one, so i don't know what the dial is measuring for tdc. northern tool used to sell one of those stick looking kind but they don't carry it anymore. none of the other local autoparts stores have one listed on their website?
 

Pablo

sqeez bth levrs & lean bk
Site Supporter
Location
georgia
i'm a liar...i forgot o'reilly autoparts. they have one listed, but don't show a pic. i'll have to call them tomorrow. i wanted to pick one up so i could try and install my TL this weekend.
 

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.

Attachments

  • Picture 130.jpg
    Picture 130.jpg
    53.8 KB · Views: 70

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
micrometer and dial gauge are two different things.
that plier mount thing is cute. ill stick with a magbase


The magnetic base works well but you have to mount the engine to a flat metal table for it to work.

The clamp-on style base will work anywhere and even with the engine installed in the ski.
 

Pablo

sqeez bth levrs & lean bk
Site Supporter
Location
georgia
Watcon sells the same part. Using that tool and a degree wheel is the only way to find EXACT TDC. You can get very close(enough) with a dial indicator or a degree wheel alone, but it'll never be exact.

how important is it to be precisely exact? i'm installing my first TL and have never adjusted the timing on any ski. if i need to get the mack daddy indicator i'll do it or is it just a matter of getting pretty darn close to tdc and then adjust the timing relative to that marking?
 

crammit442

makin' legs
Location
here
how important is it to be precisely exact? i'm installing my first TL and have never adjusted the timing on any ski. if i need to get the mack daddy indicator i'll do it or is it just a matter of getting pretty darn close to tdc and then adjust the timing relative to that marking?

You'll be fine with just a dial indicator. You could be MORE precise using a stop and a degree wheel, but for our purposes I think it's close enough. It's also difficult to use a degree wheel that's big enough to be super accurate with the motor still in the boat. I've fooled around with a large degree wheel with the motor on the bench and have always found my dial indicator/piston height measurements to be just fine. You'll find a spot at about TDC where you can move the crank slightly and the dial indicator won't display the movement. I just eyeball the center of that and use it as zero. You'll be within a half degree or so.:veryhappy:
 

D-Roc

I forgot!
what total loss system are you running? Like Crammit said, a dial indicator is probably close enough. When i used the degree wheel i would guess at TDC and zero the dial indicator. turn -10 degrees and read the dial. turn +10 and read the dial. if your exactly at TDC the dial indicator will read the same both directions. Problem is each degree is almost too big and you can fudge the numbers to read the same just by turning it to the leading edge or trailing edge of the 10 degree mark. Good luck, and take your time. What kinda curve are you going to run?
 
Last edited:

Pablo

sqeez bth levrs & lean bk
Site Supporter
Location
georgia
what total loss system are you running? Like Crammit said, a dial indicator is probably close enough. When i used the degree wheel i would guess at TDC and zero the dial indicator. turn -10 degrees and read the dial. turn +10 and read the dial. if your exactly at TDC the dial indicator will read the same both directions. Problem is each degree is almost too big and you can fudge the numbers to read the same just by turning it to the leading edge or trailing edge of the 10 degree mark. Good luck, and take your time. What kinda curve are you going to run?

I'm starting to figure it out. The degree wheel sounds like the way to go. I can't get a tdc indicator locally except for one i found at my local yamaha dealer and he wanted $96 for it!!! Said it was "real nice." I said it won't get used enought to warrant $100. If i can get away with using the degree wheel i'm gonna try it.
This is my first TL and virgin voyage into timing changes. I bought an old school one from Goose. Not sure if TL is the way to go for my ski, but i thought i'd try it for $300 and find out. If it turns out to be too much trouble i'll just get an enhancer/lightened flywheel combo.
 

D-Roc

I forgot!
TL is the way to go on any ski IMO but whether or not an old anolog used system will be reliable is another thing. If you get a degree wheel you will still need a dial indicator or a micrometer with a end you can probe into the spark plug hole to touch the piston. i think i paid 25-35 bucks for my dial indicator and just drilled out a old br8es to hold it.
 
Top Bottom