Freestyle Thrust EZ pull vs EZ-Flow pro

So the question is...

Anyone tried both types? Ez trim system (the original) vs Ez-flow pro.

Which one is preferred?

What are the exact differences?

What are the ups and downs on the different versions.

All thoughts on the matter is welcome.
 
flow pro has a slightly different trim ring that allows for more throw before water pushes out the side.other than that all else is the same.
 
When your pump is hanging out so far it's liable to get hit... I would rather have a plastic steering nozzle crack then a metal piece bend or break.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
 

THRUST

ThrustInnovations.com
It depends on your application. If you're running a freeride/superjet type application the classic is the way to go. If you're trying to do new flat water variations like 540's and combos the tighter tolerance PRO is our recommendation.

Chirs
 
It depends on your application. If you're running a freeride/superjet type application the classic is the way to go. If you're trying to do new flat water variations like 540's and combos the tighter tolerance PRO is our recommendation.

Chirs

I currently have the pro trim but would like to test out the classic. Can the parts be purchased to convert the pro to a classic without purchasing the entire trim system?
 
it looks like the pro has less degree of travel,tighter turning tolerances and less blow by at full turn. Can the pro ver be used as straight pull without the pulley and get the classics angle of trim with a little grinding?
 
ask tyrant1919 my old riding buddy. i watched him on both before he turned traitor and moved back east. my opinion is you will notice nothing on a gutless power package, but 1000cc + MAY be noticable. i have the old easy pull and clamped a piece of silicone hose on the reduction nozzle with a coat hanger and tightened up those clearances. i went from an 87mm 62t nozzles to an 84mm 65v nozzles with the fns removed and got way bigger flat water air. the old easy pull clearances could be tightened up with a bunch of jb weld/epoxy, since all the fancy machine work that lightened the ring, made it leak pressure like a siv. bad design and probably why the pro model came out, but like i said, unless you have big power, you probably wont notice anything. if you dont have enough power, you need all the throw you can get out of a nozzle to get flips around. with big power, trim is only needed for plowing a fat setup wake. you spin too fast and over rotate if used for the flip.
 
i like the 65v nozzle as well,I just bought another one to to work on the solas pump tuning again,before I throw in the 148 mag and start figuring it out for this kinda motor setup.Never seen one with the fins removed? how much does that loosen it up?The 5 deg anlge seems to give a smooth transition to the trim,I have a couple older straight pull thrust trim and xmetal trim,that dont seem to work as good,as the gp760,early gp800 trim rings with the built in rubber blow by tabs. takes alot of grinding to get good angle on that one though..Its motor setup for surf and boat wakes,so some extra angle helps with flatwater tinkering
 
my -4.3 freak sucks ass for plowing a flat water wake and the 65v nozzle barely fits under the tray. i even had to mod the top bolt and spacer to get it to clear. with the ez pull you get 1/2 the throw due to the wheel. with power you dont want throw, except for plowing and with gutless you cant get enough. i'm just going to use the 155 nozzle with the oem flow guard on my 155 mag pump and 1200 build since all these aftermarket high dollar trim systems are a joke. the $100 cables last 5 minutes , and i can build cables in 5 minutes for basically nothing. the levers are of the worst design for throw and a $10 bike lever on ebay is 10x better. the fins in the reduction nozzle add to water friction behind the veins and reduce water volume also. not needed on big motor freestyle skis but may help stability by straightening the water on gutless rec boats that get drag raced more than flipped or rolled.
 
Location
Off Site
When my cable breaks, I like making a pinch bolt (similar to a bmx bike or mountan bike brake). It seems to last a lot longer then the factory design. I 'll have to look into making my own cables and reuse the existing housing. Thanks for the info on the veins too, good to know.

Note:
I found a place that sells extra long cables for tandem bikes, around $8.00+ shipping :
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=28680&category=3974
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom