in this post i will not try to bring up stuff that was extensively been brought in h2o but rather will try to giv tips that i had to discover on my own while doing my first winter project (http://x-h2o.com/showthread.php?t=75562) or tips specific to post 08 superjets and in contradiction with whats on the forum.
Cooling, reinforcement, msd install, paint info are very well detailed in Tech section.
Wamilton.com has pdf instructions for mat and foothold prep and install
Search forum for Dcut ride plate and noozle bore.
no need to change impeller in first stages. post 08 are good. use cash on something else
on 08s, no carb plugs to drill. Easy carb screws removal.
Reinforcement: No flank/sides ribs to cut flush. No worries regarding pipe clearance after heavy reinforcement.
Post 08 superjets have already -2" vs pre 08. Take that in consideration when pole shortening.
Enough clearance for b pipe
3rd hole on turnplate has to b widened to b able to use outest point on oem plate. Do da "noozle bore" mod (search in tech section)
Reinforcement: Need to leav and foam over da front plastic nose cover bolts.
B4 35 cc cones had 150 psi ,after had 180.
MSD: slight difference from pre 08 but no stress, follow instructions and use supplied extra connector.
I couldn't taper bore the nozzle as is had an inverted cone shape on the inside. Am no pro but could only straight bore. I need confirmation on that. Maybe its just me that suck.
Once removed, I changed the 8 carb bolts as they are a bia*ch to remove. C pic.
Cannot unbolt ebox through 2 big screws. Remove 4 small screws and hammer to twist/flip sideways mounts for access to hidden screw to open box. Marine grease up everytn incl silicone joint when puttin back togeter so that no water comes in.
Don't plan to use aftermarket engine head (blowsion in my case) and keep the carb oem tube cover intact. Either use reed spacers or aftermarket flame arrestors. I had to cut a chunk of my carb black tube/cover thingy to be able to fit back.
Don't stress about which jet to use... There is not a big difference between 135 and 130 high or 75 and 70 low. You will just have to compensate by closing (if highest figure)/ opening (lowest figure) a bit the main or pilot jet.
I plunged every corroded by salt bolt in vinegar for a couple minutes and scrubed salt using toothbrush. Rinse w clear water. All my bolts were like new after this.
WD40 every bolt when putting back. Silicone the ones on the bottom of craft. Loctite the ones that came w pipe, the ones connected to steering. Grease up after install all the bolts where water will not reach while rinsing.
F pipe easy to install if you work ur way from waterbox coupler to engine manifold.
It was my first engine removal, in fact was my 1st everythin removal... I wish I had a camera so dat I could lookup where everythn went back. The biggest advice I could give is to take detailed pics of everyth while removin in case you are learnin while doin (or undoin) and if its your first time. That will help a lot when stuck putting everythn back together
Cooling, reinforcement, msd install, paint info are very well detailed in Tech section.
Wamilton.com has pdf instructions for mat and foothold prep and install
Search forum for Dcut ride plate and noozle bore.
no need to change impeller in first stages. post 08 are good. use cash on something else
on 08s, no carb plugs to drill. Easy carb screws removal.
Reinforcement: No flank/sides ribs to cut flush. No worries regarding pipe clearance after heavy reinforcement.
Post 08 superjets have already -2" vs pre 08. Take that in consideration when pole shortening.
Enough clearance for b pipe
3rd hole on turnplate has to b widened to b able to use outest point on oem plate. Do da "noozle bore" mod (search in tech section)
Reinforcement: Need to leav and foam over da front plastic nose cover bolts.
B4 35 cc cones had 150 psi ,after had 180.
MSD: slight difference from pre 08 but no stress, follow instructions and use supplied extra connector.
I couldn't taper bore the nozzle as is had an inverted cone shape on the inside. Am no pro but could only straight bore. I need confirmation on that. Maybe its just me that suck.
Once removed, I changed the 8 carb bolts as they are a bia*ch to remove. C pic.
Cannot unbolt ebox through 2 big screws. Remove 4 small screws and hammer to twist/flip sideways mounts for access to hidden screw to open box. Marine grease up everytn incl silicone joint when puttin back togeter so that no water comes in.
Don't plan to use aftermarket engine head (blowsion in my case) and keep the carb oem tube cover intact. Either use reed spacers or aftermarket flame arrestors. I had to cut a chunk of my carb black tube/cover thingy to be able to fit back.
Don't stress about which jet to use... There is not a big difference between 135 and 130 high or 75 and 70 low. You will just have to compensate by closing (if highest figure)/ opening (lowest figure) a bit the main or pilot jet.
I plunged every corroded by salt bolt in vinegar for a couple minutes and scrubed salt using toothbrush. Rinse w clear water. All my bolts were like new after this.
WD40 every bolt when putting back. Silicone the ones on the bottom of craft. Loctite the ones that came w pipe, the ones connected to steering. Grease up after install all the bolts where water will not reach while rinsing.
F pipe easy to install if you work ur way from waterbox coupler to engine manifold.
It was my first engine removal, in fact was my 1st everythin removal... I wish I had a camera so dat I could lookup where everythn went back. The biggest advice I could give is to take detailed pics of everyth while removin in case you are learnin while doin (or undoin) and if its your first time. That will help a lot when stuck putting everythn back together
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