Other top maintenance tips

[two81's]

I thought it would be a good idea to start a threads on tips and tricks that make repairs or servicing our skis easier. I looked but couldn't find one.
One of my ideas that I can think of is a tool to aid in installing fuel tank, battery and waterbox straps. I took a long flat head screwdriver and cut a grove in the flat end. This way you can put the loop of the strap in it and use this to push out into its clip or bracket.

I hope i'm not the last guy with this idea for a tool. What other ideas does everyone have.

 

[Armored snuffy]

Subscribed.
That is a good idea. I'm sure there are plenty of tips and tricks out there that people could share.
I've used a bungie strap hooked to my handlebars to hold the tank straps up and out of the way while I put the tank in. And this may seem silly, but while trying to feed another line, like a bilge switch, down the pole into the engine compartment use lube. Like wd40. Everything always seems to be better with lube.

 

[Vumad]

Don't replace broken parts with crap used or generic new crap.

Get off the dollar and buy something that wont be broken in a week.

Edit: I do want to add that I haven't forgotten what it is like to be a struggling college student or similar. Ride in your means, but try not to cut corners, it costs more in the long run.

 

[two81's]

Here is the screw driver I was talking about. It took me 5 years to think of this.

The bungee cord is a great idea. Never thought of that. I always try to wedge them between the handle pole and bracket.

Any other good ideas? Come on people

sent from my awesome Samsung tablet

 

[two81's]

That's the only reason my old kawi's are always down because of eBay parts.

 

[Vumad]

Lubricate everything after a salt ride. I use WD40 on anything I don't touch (engine, pole bracket) and silicone on everything I do touch (bars, latch).

Loc-tite or anti-sieze on everything, everytime.

Always put a lubricant, such as anti-seize on all new hardware, even for test fitting. Dry stainless bolt + dry stainless nut - lube = cold seizure.

Properly clean everything you touch. If you take a single bolt out, brush the threads and lube/loc before reinstall, every time.

Don't run generic TCW3. It is oil. If you run cheap oil, and are not sure, mix it 10:1 in water in a glass jar and shake well. if it doesn't separate (like cooking oil would), it's crap, change oils.

If you don't have a superjet that came pre-mix, block it off and switch to pre-mix asap.

Don't let fuel sit. It looses octane after a few months, and the ethanol destroys everything.

Buy the right tool as soon as you can afford it. Buy a pop-off gauge while you are at it.

Not a mechanic tip, but do not exceed you skill level and always wear the right safety gear. It will save your ski. It will save you.

 

[Vumad]

When making an electric connection...

Use shrink wrap connectors. Cram Silicone into the connector after you crimp but before you heat. Heat from outside to middle, forcing the silicone into the connection. Do not over heat, the silicone can boil and off gas, don't rush it. If you like this method but don't like the shelf-life if silicone, dielectric grease works well too.

For the absolute bullet proof connections, do the above, but then use another piece of shrink wrap twice the size of the shrink connector, and put silicone in it, heating outside inward.

Put dielectric grease on battery terminals exposed to salt.

Buy sealed batteries. open lead batteries are for couches.

Never leave colored annodized aluminum exposed to sunlight. It fades and fades fast.

Two-tone turf doesn't last as long as solids (before looking tore up). Use solid turf in the tray, and 2-tone turf on the sides of the tray and on the bumpers. The solid will hold up better to your feet, but you can get the look in the less abused areas.

Certain colors fade and change colors quickly. Choose accordingly.

If you are going to sand, paint, anything, invest in a respirator, they can be had as cheap as $40. You can't buy your health back.

 

[Vumad]

Best kept secret in home maintenance...

Chem dip... Available at most car parts stores for about $30 for a gallon. Makes heavily corroded parts or gummed up carb parts like new again. Brush off as much as you can before soaking and keep covered and the one gallon will last a very very long time.

http://www.berrymanproducts.com/pro...rryman-chem-dip-carburetor-and-parts-cleaner/

While on the subject of carbs, don't use metal wire to clean carb jets. Use nylon wire, like the stuff a toothbrush is made of. Rip one out of a soft bristle deck brush.

 

[phreeride215]

Lubricate everything after a salt ride. I use WD40 on anything I don't touch (engine, pole bracket) and silicone on everything I do touch (bars, latch).

Loc-tite or anti-sieze on everything, everytime.

Always put a lubricant, such as anti-seize on all new hardware, even for test fitting. Dry stainless bolt + dry stainless nut - lube = cold seizure.

Properly clean everything you touch. If you take a single bolt out, brush the threads and lube/loc before reinstall, every time.

Don't run generic TCW3. It is oil. If you run cheap oil, and are not sure, mix it 10:1 in water in a glass jar and shake well. if it doesn't separate (like cooking oil would), it's crap, change oils.

If you don't have a superjet that came pre-mix, block it off and switch to pre-mix asap.

Don't let fuel sit. It looses octane after a few months, and the ethanol destroys everything.

Buy the right tool as soon as you can afford it. Buy a pop-off gauge while you are at it.

Not a mechanic tip, but do not exceed you skill level and always wear the right safety gear. It will save your ski. It will save you.

Fuel goes to crap way faster than a few months, All fuel should be pre mixed right away, which seems to help a little to prevent it losing octane, and if you have to buy fuel with ethanol, it should be treated with star-tron or marine stabil when you mix it. If you have the option of paying extra for non ethanol fuel at the gas station, airport, or marina... do it!! Ethanol will absorb moisture out of the air, and begin to corrode the inside of carbs if left sitting for two weeks.

 

[btonns]

Fuel goes to crap way faster than a few months, All fuel should be pre mixed right away, which seems to help a little to prevent it losing octane, and if you have to buy fuel with ethanol, it should be treated with star-tron or marine stabil when you mix it. If you have the option of paying extra for non ethanol fuel at the gas station, airport, or marina... do it!! Ethanol will absorb moisture out of the air, and begin to corrode the inside of carbs if left sitting for two weeks.

I agree with you on this. We use Valvtect Marine Fuel at the marina I work at. Here is a link to where you can buy it. http://www.valvtect.com/marina_search.asp

 

[lightweight]

Chase all bolt holes even if it looks clean. Use CLR on corroded parts also works great on carbs. The most important : if it looks like you gonna cut your hand have you buddy hold it. LOL

 

[orangefinger]

-disconnect your battery after each ride
-drain all water and leave engine bay open when stored in garage..no fumes at start up and dry engine bay
-secure fuel tank straps ( waterbox side ) with zip ties
-seal gap on cylinder where girdled stud enters cylinder

 

[MADMAT]

Check every bolt and everything everywhere every day!

 

[kx454]

Let your ski warm up before you pin it to win it

If you ride a Yamaha, purchase a 3"-8" hole saw and proceed to drill it through the bottom...Not only does it look good, but it helps load the pump better for flips

Drink at least 10 beers after a good day of riding

 

[subhard]

-disconnect your battery after each ride

Why. There shouldn't be a drain when left connected

 

[Armored snuffy]

Let your ski warm up before you pin it to win it

If you ride a Yamaha, purchase a 3"-8" hole saw and proceed to drill it through the bottom...Not only does it look good, but it helps load the pump better for flips

Drink at least 10 beers after a good day of riding

You mean drink at least 10 beers before a good day of riding.

 

[blaster800]

Why. There shouldn't be a drain when left connected

... I have seen a starter solenoid and starter motor engage all by itself, continue to crank untill the cables melt , it was at that point it was noticed and disconnected , just shy of flames . BTW , do a search on how many cars that are parked in the attached garage of a home burn the house down ??? ...... A LOT ! . Its just a good precaution to disconnect the batt when possible , Im sure others have seen the same thing happen

 

[Dmac80sc]

Here is the screw driver I was talking about. It took me 5 years to think of this.

The bungee cord is a great idea. Never thought of that. I always try to wedge them between the handle pole and bracket.

Any other good ideas? Come on people



sent from my awesome Samsung tablet

Watcon Sells a tool exactly for that.

 

[two81's]

Mine was free. Found the screwdriver. Had the grinder. I guess great minds think alike