Freestyle Total Loss Water proofing

[vitalikol]

Does anybody try to put Total Loss in SJ electrical box ? Will it fit there at all ? Any other watertight boxes ? Got Total Loss for my ski and heard lot about problems in salt water. Just want to prevent it from start

 

[Matt_E]

ATP Flame Total Loss. Fits in the stock SJ ebox.

While it is possible to saltwater-proof your MSD Total Loss, it's not nearly as easy as the ATP system.
If you really want it bomb-proof for salt, ditch it and get the ATP Flame.

 

[vitalikol]

I got this one with motor I bought. Don't want to spend more money for another ignition, just to waterproof this one

 

[Matt_E]

Sorry.....you could pay JSS to proof it for you, or you could search on here and do it yourself. (There have been threads on this topic)
You will need to be very very thorough or you WILL have issues.

 

[loictahiti]

yes you can and should put all your Msd ignition component in GP or GPR(i don't remember) electric box , it fit properly and it will be salt water proof

happy new year

 

[vitalikol]

Thanks for your input

 

[loictahiti]

I 'll try to find witch box is

 

[loictahiti]

yes I found it

go to my french friend website here

sorry is in french , but don't need translator to see pic ;-))))


http://www.jetparadise.net/t1975-boite-etanche-totall-loss?highlight=boite+electrique+GP

 

[junkyardj]

masterblaster made a nice box to put his msd in but ive used a msd with a oem box all i did was run the wire's into the box and used all the oem components relay,coil ect.. ill try and find the link for you

the brain wasnt in the box but all the wiring and all the guts were and thats the stuff that counts imo

 

[GIL]

Keep it simple! Lots of di-electric grease, keep everything sprayed down w/WD40 or equivilent, leave the hood OFF when storing ski (so it can dry out under hood), solder every joint, smear 1211 on every solder joint, use adhesive lined heat shrink on every soldered joint, and use more di-electric grease! If you ride salt all the time, re grease all connectors once a month or so for preventative maint.
Gil
ps-I spend 8 hours everytime I set one up so that there are no issues on the water and by spending 8 hours setting it up-I 'usually' don't have issues. lol

 

[Waternut]

the brain wasnt in the box but all the wiring and all the guts were and thats the stuff that counts imo

I disagree. The brain is the MOST important part and also the most expensive. Everything else can be diagnosed and fixed/replaced for next to nothing and probably from your random box of misc parts. You toast the brain and you'll be out a couple weeks plus however much time it took you to figure out it was the brain that was bad in the first place.

I made a waterbox box out of polycarbonate last year before Daytona. Here is a thread I started regarding it. Mine was a little big but it worked great. There are other ideas in this thread that are better too. http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/66729-Sealed-total-loss-box

 

[D-Roc]

i goop di-electric grease around the wires that come from the brain's epoxy. just in case moisture trys to get in there when its cooling down after use. so how many brains have people gone thru, i wasted a used brain and am still on my new replacement. 3rd season.

 

[BombThreat]

die-electric grease all the connections and make sure all your connections are soldiered/heatshrunk.

 

[steve-uk]

ATP Flame Total Loss. Fits in the stock SJ ebox.

While it is possible to saltwater-proof your MSD Total Loss, it's not nearly as easy as the ATP system.
If you really want it bomb-proof for salt, ditch it and get the ATP Flame.

I got this one with motor I bought. Don't want to spend more money for another ignition, just to waterproof this one

for the amount some people pay for used MSD systems you could sell your system and buy a brand new Flame for a few dollars more

 

[augustaf]

I got this one with motor I bought. Don't want to spend more money for another ignition, just to waterproof this one

Is "this one" analog with the plug in modules or digital with dip switches in back?

 

[JetManiac]

Keep it simple! Lots of di-electric grease, keep everything sprayed down w/WD40 or equivilent, leave the hood OFF when storing ski (so it can dry out under hood), solder every joint, smear 1211 on every solder joint, use adhesive lined heat shrink on every soldered joint, and use more di-electric grease! If you ride salt all the time, re grease all connectors once a month or so for preventative maint.
Gil
ps-I spend 8 hours everytime I set one up so that there are no issues on the water and by spending 8 hours setting it up-I 'usually' don't have issues. lol

No issues in saltwater?

 

[Waveblaster785]

The previous owner of my ski made an aluminum box that mounted to the stock ebox mounting hardware. It's awesome, I really don't understand why people leave their ignitions wide open to the elements.

 

[tightithrash]

Keep it simple! Lots of di-electric grease, keep everything sprayed down w/WD40 or equivilent, leave the hood OFF when storing ski (so it can dry out under hood), solder every joint, smear 1211 on every solder joint, use adhesive lined heat shrink on every soldered joint, and use more di-electric grease! If you ride salt all the time, re grease all connectors once a month or so for preventative maint.
Gil
ps-I spend 8 hours everytime I set one up so that there are no issues on the water and by spending 8 hours setting it up-I 'usually' don't have issues. lol

yeah that sounds real simple!!!!! hahahaha sike.

 

[Waternut]

The previous owner of my ski made an aluminum box that mounted to the stock ebox mounting hardware. It's awesome, I really don't understand why people leave their ignitions wide open to the elements.

For the same reason you see so many crusty corroded stock e-boxes. Out of sight, out of mind. Then one day everything tanks. Don't get me wrong... If I didn't ride 99% fresh water, I would make another sealed box that fit in this hull. As it stands though, I plan to smear everything with dielectric grease before Daytona and cross my fingers.

 

[GIL]

No issues in saltwater?

The only time I had saltwater issues my dumb azz had smashed the #1 coil's white wire between the t/l plate and mounting bracket and it did not show it's ugly face until I got in the salt. KEEP IN MIND-I don't get to ride the salty stuff but 3-4 times a year which I am pretty sure makes a big difference. I re-grease all of my stuff annually and if I rode salt all the time I would probaly do it monthly. You have to consider the fact that none of my soldered connections can't ever see any moisture due to all that I went thru when doing them. I noticed today when I got back from the lake that everything exposed is looking chalky and I am certain that 5 minutes in saltwater I would have issues as my ski sits right now but I am overdue a fresh top end job so it will all get re-greased when the motor goes back in next month. When I go to the beach I spray the livin crap out of everything under the hood 2 times before it hits the water and then again every night while I am at the beach, come home and clean everything (simple green all over everything, fill engine bay 1/2 full of water and ride across the lake until the versi plug has drained it all out) and then a light coat of aeresol oil all over everything again.

And as waternut said, if it's in a box, it is out of sight and out of mind until it is too far gone! On a plate you see it every time you pull the hood!