Truing a 440 crank

Put my bottom end together the other day but there was a lot of binding so i took it back apart. Took it to a buddy who works at a machine shop and was told it just needed to be straightened out. I'm a little baffled as to how it got bent, as when i pulled it apart it spun just fine, and it was a running motor when i pulled it. I didn't drop it or anything like that. But anyways, this as easy as it sounds? I'm fairly competent when it comes to stuff like this, just wondering if a guy could do it just to get the motor together. Don't want to put too much money into the motor.
 

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I think you're missing something in the assembly. If it fit before, it should fit now. Do the Kawi's have the alignment pins that have to fir into holes into the case? That's the most common issue with assembly that I have seen.
 
When i took the top case off to check it, it appeared that the two center bearings were moving slightly. I believe i put the center bearing pin in the hole, but i guess it could be a possibility that i didn't get it and it got bent.
 
check your center labyrinth seal for proper pin alignment.the 2 outer bearings have a retaining ring to stop crank walk or if you have older style 440 the rear seal plate could be pushing on the rear bearing?
truing a crank requires simple tools but experience to do right
laby seal should not drag on crank.it fits loosely.
 
Exactly how much harder would new seals make it turn? That could be it, but i still might check the run out since i have access to all the tools.
 
not much harder.initial stiction will be higher but once crank spins it just feels like smooth action as long as seals are lubed.
 
Alrighty, with the top half off, if i push/pull the rods the crank will turn, just with more friction, but if put the top case on i can't get enough leverage/speed to turn the crank all the way around. Not sure if that's good way of explaining how much resistance there is, but hopefully it helps.
 
The resistance should be the same whether the case halves are together or not. With new seals, grease the shaft and seal really well, then lay the crank in place with seals, lining up center pins, and feel how it spins. There will be some resistance with the new seals. Then assemble case halves but do not use the bolts to pull them together... just lightly tap with a rubber mallet as you line everything up. You will get to the point that there is just a very small gap (1/16" or so) then start carefully tightening the bolts in the correct pattern... a little on each one going around and around until you finally torque them. Check the shaft as you go. If it gets hard to turn immediately stop, you did something wrong... disassemble, remove all the sealant you just put on there (hate that part) and do it again.
 
Ok, im going to try that i think. However there's a crank truing stand at the place i work so I'm going to throw it up there and see how it looks just to be safe.
 
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