Twenty years on one engine....sorta

A PWC is the proof of "rode hard, put away wet"-so how long does an engine last ? Assuming, of course, that you don't sink it or blow it up with mods.

In 1996, I bought the new twin carb SJ 701. I live near water, so since that time, it has been used on average twice a week, often more, in season. I run May-October, water temps willing.

The engine is totally stock except for primer kit. Hull has plate/grate/prop, and a UMI steering kit. Most of my riding is on a river, with some salt. I've ridden surf, but that's a rare treat. The ski has been offshore in New Jersey at Barnegat Light (huge, huge swells), and to Daytona Beach. Even rode with the Mauler, a legit racing champ off Matansas Inlet, Fla. - This toy has not been babied.

I used Mercruiser or Evinrude oil for most of the ski's life, recently going to Amsoil. The Mercruiser is sold at my local boat store...ran 50:1 per instructions. I'd flush after rides, but other than occasional fogging spray and yearly plugs, not too crazy.

Like many of us, I got the dreaded 'bog' two seasons ago. It started only when in a trough of a wave, where you needed to blast over the top. Started and ran fine everywhere else.

We rebuilt the carbs-second time in 20 years...bog still there, got worse over time. This year, Jetski Solutions re did the electrical...the plug wires had turned into carbon at some point....

Bog still there and getting progressively worse...but only when the engine came up to full hot. Rebuilt the Fuel Pump. No change.

Really frustrating, I'd splash, ride for 30 minutes, all good, right up to rev limiter now that the carbs and the sparks were in the right place....but when hot, it would "grab" as if it was fuel starved, or soft seizing. Kinda like you get a 30 minute ride and go home :(

The engine is OE bore. Third set of pistons....every few years we'd pull the block, see the bores still had the cross hatching, and replace the piston and rings.....so stock bore, stock sized pistons.

Still, the bog. Having literally rebuilt everything in line, we went to SBT and ordered a short block. The folks at SBT called and confirmed everything, and a "new" engine appeared in my driveway three days later.

Now, when I say "we", I mean my brother, who while not a professional mechanic, runs a beautiful X2 and trained with a motorcycle shop who drag raced-let's just say he adjusts his own valves on a Ducati Desmo. I'm a helper who keeps track of the 10 mm wrench and buys beer.

It took four hours, but the engine swap was mostly uneventful - We discovered the back left engine mount was in three pieces after hammering it for 20 years. The back lower exhaust manifold bolt is tight to get to, and we got lucky in that the coupler came off with little problem. The air tools were MVP for fly wheel removal.

Working on break in now, did one session yesterday at easy-easy riding. The SBT short block looked good and everything went together OK. The engine fired immediately. It feels good on the break in ride, but of course WOT and the search for the dread BOG will have to wait.

We didn't do an autopsy, but there was no sign of seizure on the pistons...but we could turn the whole thing over by hand. Compression may have been an issue. Our theory is that when the engine came full warm, the rings didn't seal properly and everything else went out.

Some pix of the process. 20 years on one crank. Yamaha builds junk.
 

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JetManiac

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Sounds like your dreaded bog may be a bad charge coil. When a going bad charge coil gets hot it will start loosing output.

Your rebuilt jss stator looks to have the original charge coil. Hopefully I am wrong, but you will find out if your bog is still there soon enough.
 

JetManiac

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and the bog returns ! (well, not the engine, even if it was due) Charging coil is current suspect. Darn !

Only replace it with an oem coil, not wsm or other a/m, they are a waste of time. We have the new OEM charging coil in stock if needed.
 
Thanks to JetManiac for his prompt reply and shipping.

Also thanks to OCD for his experiment with a "tests OK" charge coil and showing how it drops voltage when heated up. I've been chasing this so long I was considering a nice SeaCouch to take fishing.

Not really.

It will be nice to get tired before the ski does, for a change.
 
21 years actually :p I was looking at your pic of the crank...from what I can see on this little phone of mine I'd say your crank seals are well past due for replacement. I'd say they have been faithful enough, 20+ years of life out of them warrants their retirement plan. It sounds to me that when they get warm they start to expand enough to allow air into the crank throwing off your mix ratio making it lean. Your bog could be confused as a lean hesitation, the difference between the two can be very difficult to tell sometimes, more so if you have been hearing it for a long time and keep thinking it is a bog. One other option that may be happening is the progressive crank bearing wear. If the bearings on either outer end are wearing out they will allow the crank to travel opening up a gap between the seal. This will also cause the same conditions as the worn out seals will.
 
I'd agree, but once the new rebuild was run in enough to load, it did EXACTLY the same thing the 1996 engine did, and exactly the same way. I'll report back after the new coil is installed. I'm unhappy with the harness rebuilder, who sent the reman harness back with "all three coils test OK", causing this to be ruled out in error.
 
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The short answer here was "the effing Stator". After installing the new shortblock, and having the same symptoms, but on a newer engine, it was back to the garage, to get the flywheel off again, this time with the engine in the hull.

Two rides later, engine up to full temp, the fresh stator made all the difference. No bog. Not even a little. I'm back to the ski beating me to death till I give up...just the way it should be.

JetManiac shipped the same day. Thanks Chris.

This stupid coil ruined two seasons-and the symptoms it tossed were all misleading...carbs ? Fuel Pressure ? Temp sensor ? Leaky crank seals ? Nope, a part that tests OK....to boot.

..so we ran some tests....

The new-in-a-bag Yam stator tested at 540 ohm.
Spec, per the manual, is 497.7 to 608.3
The old Yam stator tested at 528 ohms-JSS was correct in "tested OK" and they state they don't temperature test.

The new coil was a snowball white, while the old coil has some discoloration. I intend to unwind it to verify insulation failure. In the future, a visible discoloration may be a fail symptom....

To check the coil, it was placed in the oven....and run up to 300 or so degrees, slowly, as to mimic what happens with the engine.

At 265 measured degrees, the coil resistance went up to 718 ohms. As it cooled, the resistance dropped. After a minute it was down to 695, and continued to drop as the coil cooled.

This "in spec" while cold but "out of spec" when hot is the same thing OCD showed in a post where he set up his ignition test rig, the coil fired OK at room temp, until he warmed it to 180 degrees using a heat gun, where the output voltage of the coil then dropped enough not to fire the CDI and plugs properly. This is exactly the same thing (ohm's law) we observed, even though we were testing resistance and he was measuring output voltage. The increase in resistance would decrease the output....and the 20% change agrees with his experiment.

Thanks to everyone, especially my brother, who shall remain unnamed but pretty much sets me up with a Factory Ride, and didn't kill me when we had to take the flywheel off a second time in two weeks. I look forward to many hours this season on the new engine.....
 
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Update : After a break in period, I ran it hard all summer of 2017. Engine never missed a beat, in the Hudson river and off Barnegat Light. Probably 20 tanks in all. Two rides as of date in 2018 (still cold), and runs like a new ski. SBT motor runs very well...no complaints. Might get a new intake grate this year. Off to ride...
 
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