Type 4 install (how to)

[snacksnack]

Not really rocket science but I have herd alot of negative as how to install I thought I would do it and take some pics.

First pics just being the pipe. Second pic is the Heavy duty hose and 2 t-bolt clamps (they are not coming loose nor apart).

 

[snacksnack]

For the first part I installed the pipe with no coupler to make sure it all fit together straight. The lord mounts were all in place and with minor adjustment the coupler area fit perfectly straight with the manifold.

 

[snacksnack]

lastly the pipe and coupler installed and the clamp tightened down, you can see that with all the mounts and clamps it should be nearly bulletproof!!

 

[snacksnack]

oh and one more item I did while it was out add the main jet in the stinger.

 

[snacksnack]

Went and tried it out for a few today and for being a completly stock engine it wasn't the best mod I have done but when the other items come into play it should come around nicely! It has a close to off idle throttle response with a strong midrange and a bit of a weak top end. I'm sure the top end will come alive with the carbs that will be going on lated this week :usa2:

 

[MADMAT]

The other items you will need will be big bore, big carbs, aluminum flywheel, and strainers.

Then that thing should hit good!

 

[sneaky]

make sure the coupler is aligned straight. Make sure there is plenty of silicone in it. and the rubber mounts on the head need to be pulling the pipe towards the front of the motor. how you put it in and out is up to you, i put it on the motor first then put it in, any other way seems way difficult!

 

[snacksnack]

The other items you will need will be big bore, big carbs, aluminum flywheel, and strainers.

Then that thing should hit good!

Yeah pretty much what all it needs :beerchug:

make sure the coupler is aligned straight. Make sure there is plenty of silicone in it. and the rubber mounts on the head need to be pulling the pipe towards the front of the motor. how you put it in and out is up to you, i put it on the motor first then put it in, any other way seems way difficult!

Silicone??? where do you use Silicone??? I did it out of the ski obviously way easier.

 

[sneaky]

use silicone on the coupler, i think to protect the coupler from heat and reduce vibrations. i could be wrong on that part. make sure it doesn't make it's way into the chamber when you put it on tho.

 

[lvnspeed]

Why put a mian jet in the stinger?????

 

[Sospikey]

Why put a mian jet in the stinger?????

To limit/control the amount of water sprayed into the waterbox. It really makes a huge difference!

 

[Sospikey]

use silicone on the coupler, i think to protect the coupler from heat and reduce vibrations. i could be wrong on that part. make sure it doesn't make it's way into the chamber when you put it on tho.

I use hight temp silicone instead of the o-ring that FPP put there. I also did the JSS mod to the manifold, makes it easier to install. Now I can install/uninstall in about 10-15 minutes!

 

[snacksnack]

I use hight temp silicone instead of the o-ring that FPP put there. I also did the JSS mod to the manifold, makes it easier to install. Now I can install/uninstall in about 10-15 minutes!

I had herd of someone not even using the o rings or anything and just relying on the coupler. After installing with no coupler I could not see hardly any reason for the o rings. They barley touched and only would work if there was a constant pressure pulling the pipe towards the manifold. however for safe measure mine has the o rings :loser:

 

[MADMAT]

What is the JSS mod and do you mean you just gooped high temp sili in it and assembled?

 

[SurferSmurf]

those t bolt clamps are a bad idea. i bought a set for mine and they are to wide and grip so good that the will cut into the coupler as it vibrates. you can get it to run and make power but you definitely need more mods.

 

[QuickMick]

What is the JSS mod and do you mean you just gooped high temp sili in it and assembled?

Go to the JSS site and read about it. Johns idea is to file/grind/remove the lip off the manifold side so the coupler slides on easy.
I didnt do this simply because I dont have a problem with mine going off and i like the lip to keep the hose clamp on it.
I use the O ring to keep the pipe from banging the manifold when running.
I also use some 700 degree silicone to help the longivity of the coupler.
I also dont use the water hose, ect hose any more. Only the blue silicone couplers, they seem to last longer. KEEP ONE IN STOCK too.

 

[sneaky]

i used the o ring and high temp silicone. but i also have a jet in the exhaust manifold cooling the coupler to extend life.

 

[Crab]

i used the o ring and high temp silicone. but i also have a jet in the exhaust manifold cooling the coupler to extend life.

I have no silicone and just the black oring and silicone coupler, and it looks great, dripping a little oil when I take it apart is all.

 

[crashski]

I just use the O-ring and coupler also, for the record my coupler out lasted my motor. I bought the ski 3 ½ years ago with the dry pipe on it and haven’t replaced the coupler in that time. I do keep a spare coupler with me and I gave a spare to crab who gave it to someone else. So proper alignment makes all difference in the coupler lasting.

Great write up.

 

[Super Dee]

Went and tried it out for a few today and for being a completly stock engine it wasn't the best mod I have done but when the other items come into play it should come around nicely! It has a close to off idle throttle response with a strong midrange and a bit of a weak top end. I'm sure the top end will come alive with the carbs that will be going on lated this week :usa2:

You mentioned that it wasn't all that great of a mod on a stock motor. I thought I read somewhere on this forum about there being two different type 4 chambers.... a black chamber and a blue chamber. Yours is obviously black in colour, but has it been repainted or is it truely a black chamber type 4?