Waterproof Shur-Stop Switches

[#ZERO]

Has anyone tried using these shur-stop kill switches in the saltwater?

It looks like it would work perfect for doing away with that bulky black plastic switch assembly.

They have a waterproof o-ring design, silver plated contacts, anodized aluminum construction and a U.V. resistant cable; so I'm thinking that it might work great for jet-ski use.

 

[michael950]

Where are they, do they use a lanyard, and how much do they cost?

 

[#ZERO]

Where are they, do they use a lanyard, and how much do they cost?

They sell for $29.95 each at Wakula Racing. http://www.wakularacing.com/Controls 2.asp

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

that looks pretty cool.

its cheap enough, someone buy one and test it in the water!

 

[#ZERO]

I was thinking about using a switch on ether side of the handlebars for run and kill. This would allow me more room for mounting a larger 10-1/2" crossbar pad for protection.

A lot of people make billet lanyards but I'm not sure who makes the best one for saltwater use. I'm going to mount an aftermarket lanyard on the pole or on the dash somewhere with bypass connectors mounted under the hood so I don't have to run it in the surf.

 

[keefer]

If you do away with the "bulky black plastic switch assembly" wouldn't you have to run two? One for start and one for the kill switch. Seems like you would have one on both sides of the bars. Maybe the old bulky three in one switch housing is not so bad after all.

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

Id run just ONE to start the ski.

I havent ran a KILL switch in a few years.

I just turn the idle down a tad. ( and rarely let go)

 

[#ZERO]

There's nothing wrong with my bulky three in one switch housing, I just don't have room for it. I'm going to be mounting a trim lever on my ski real soon and I'm just looking for ways to make more space for my large crossbar pad. I'll have to use an aftermarket lever on each side with a switch on each side so the spacing will be even.

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

where did you get that longer pad bar?

I assume the clamps are the regular UMI ones?

cool setup.

There's nothing wrong with my bulky three in one switch housing, I just don't have room for it. I'm going to be mounting a trim lever on my ski real soon and I'm just looking for ways to make more space for my large crossbar pad. I'll have to use an aftermarket lever on each side with a switch on each side so the spacing will be even.

 

[#ZERO]

where did you get that longer pad bar?

I assume the clamps are the regular UMI ones?

cool setup.

It's something that I made from 1/2" aluminum rod purchased at Home Depot.

I put both ends of the bar in a press to make the rod flatter to fit inside the standard UMI clamps.

Thanx, it's worked out very well and I would never go back to the smaller bar pad.

 

[D-Roc]

cool

 

[Watty]

I'm just thinking out loud here, but wouldnt you be better off using an xmetal turn plate with straight bars and use the chinpad for protection?

It seems that by adding the protection of the bigger crossbar, you are just introducing somthing to crack your skull on!

The only reason I say that is because I don't think I've once hit the crossbar. The chinpad, yes, but never the crossbar.

 

[#ZERO]

I was thinking about going with a shorter xmetal type turn plate with 0 degree bars mounted straight through so I could use make the handlebars a custom length.

I'm also using a big pad with that crossbar but it not shown in the picture because it came lose in the surf. When I had my shorter crossbar pad on I was constantly hitting my knees on the clamps.

I'm all for heavy padding in the surf and don't see how some of you guys are running no crossbars pads with carbon fiber turfed chinpads without taking a chance of getting seriously injured.

 

[keefer]

Yeah, I am with ya on that one. I like lots of energy absorbing squishy padding on any surface that might come in contact with my old body while attempting to do young guy tricks:biggrin: Tried to roll today and nearly jammed my knee into the back of the handle pole. Other than that just a couple of bruises.

 

[marz831]

Maybe I'll give one a try as a blige switch. Do they have a "toggle" type or are the all momentary?

 

[meatball]

if you disable the kill, doesnt the lanyard still needed to be plugged in to be able to at first start the ski and afterwards it doesnt matter? I have a ski with a disabled stop (black/white unplugged) however the start switch is now starting to die too.

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

yes, I have normally ziptied the lanyard post.

My start ( green button) died in GA.

WAB, Ketsair, and MOSQ and a few others rigged the RED stop button as the start switch now.

hehe, I sort of like it better, I think of it as theft prevention.

:sneaky:

if you disable the kill, doesnt the lanyard still needed to be plugged in to be able to at first start the ski and afterwards it doesnt matter? I have a ski with a disabled stop (black/white unplugged) however the start switch is now starting to die too.

 

[#ZERO]

Maybe I'll give one a try as a blige switch. Do they have a "toggle" type or are the all momentary?

This is just a momentary switch that can be used as a start, stop, or maybe for CO2 trim system activation.

The lanyard is just another micro switch bridge between the starter button circuit and something else to malfunction. It's required by law but not something that is regularly checked and if you're in real rough surf it's almost impossible to reinstall.

 

[Idok]

it'd make a sweet bilge switch, but you'd have to hold it on for the entire time....

 

[marz831]

it'd make a sweet bilge switch, but you'd have to hold it on for the entire time....

That's what I was thinking. I like to just let them run all the time.