Waveblaster shaft removal from pump

racerx143

racerx143

Location
Florida
1996 Waveblaster - Doing some periodic maintance and since I have my pump on the bench, figured I'd check, clean, and lube the bearings. Can I press the shaft out from this end (back of ski)? The impeller is still on but it looks like I can press it out to get to bearings and then just press the shaft back in from the long end. The manual is a bit confussing, it shows removing the impeller and pushing from the long end of the shaft and then the next picture shows pressing from this end.. ??? I dont have the spline holding tool or socket for removing the impeller and I dont have any reason to take it off anyway if I can just press it out with impellar on. I want to make sure before I go putting pressure on it. Also, why is the end of the shaft threaded? There was nothing on it and I don't see anything thing that goes on it in the parts diagram. (see pic).
 

Attachments

  • 20180526_153038.jpg
    20180526_153038.jpg
    79.3 KB · Views: 31
Last edited:
blasterdude

blasterdude

Waiting for the ice to thaw!!!!
Location
The Region
You have to remove the impeller first and then press it out from the long end. The shaft and bearings go in from the end of the pump you are showing in the picture. As for the end of the shaft being threaded I have no idea why either because nothing goes on it. Maybe it is done when they mass produce them to make it easier?
 
racerx143

racerx143

Location
Florida
Looking at my manual I am also confussed how to remove the impeller. The one in the book looks like you can get it off with a wrench, from the outside. This is what mine looks like. Who ever had the ski before me had added a lot of aftermarket parts so I am not sure if maybe that is what this is. How do you remove it?
 

Attachments

  • 20180526_160415.jpg
    20180526_160415.jpg
    105.3 KB · Views: 31
///M5

///M5

Location
Guam
racerx143 said:
Do you know offhand which one fits a Blaster? I cant figure out if its the WR007 or WR004
Click to expand...
I think the 007 is the 3 notch, and 004 is the 4 notch. You can be sure by checking the prop model. The tools have a list of prop models they work for.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 
racerx143

racerx143

Location
Florida
I soaked the impeller all week with PB Blaster while I was waiting for the tools to arrive.. heated it up, turned clockwise ( drew an arrow on impeller to show which way I am turning it) and pow... tool just sheered off the lugs.20180602_154655.jpg
 
///M5

///M5

Location
Guam
racerx143 said:
I soaked the impeller all week with PB Blaster while I was waiting for the tools to arrive.. heated it up, turned clockwise ( drew an arrow on impeller to show which way I am turning it) and pow... tool just sheered off the lugs.View attachment 355311
Click to expand...
It can really be a pia, even when there is antiseize or grease on the threads. I find, a sharp hit and a lot of heat on the prop work best. If I apply a lot of force slowly I broke tools.


Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 
racerx143

racerx143

Location
Florida
I bought the tool from SBT, called them this morning and they are sending me a new one at no cost. I am going to put the entire damn thing in the freezer for about half a day then heat the impeller up extra good.. and give it another go when the tool gets here.
 
///M5

///M5

Location
Guam
racerx143 said:
I bought the tool from SBT, called them this morning and they are sending me a new one at no cost. I am going to put the entire damn thing in the freezer for about half a day then heat the impeller up extra good.. and give it another go when the tool gets here.
Click to expand...
You can also use some freeze off on the shaft when heating the prop just to give it more shock

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 
racerx143

racerx143

Location
Florida
I finally got it apart and wanted to share that info. ( I hate threads that don't have a conclusion or solution)

After 5 or 6 attempts of PB Blaster, freezing it overnight, heating with propane, and then striking and leveraging on the impeller removal tool, I gave up on that. I went to a friends auto repair shop and we used an acetylene/oxygen torch at a medium heat and no freezing. We heated it up pretty damn good, not red or glowing but hot and smoking. Don't put your impeller tool on it until your fininshed heating because it will make the tool soft and prone to break. Right off the bat we decided to try to shock it off with an impact gun rather then leveraging on the impeller tool with a wrench so we used the tools backwards. Usually you place the spline holding tool in a vise and turn the impeller tool (reverse thread). We put the impeller tool in the edge of the vise and slid the shaft through it and engaged it into the impeller. I held the pump housing firmly againist the tool while my friend used an impact gun and socket on the spline holding tool. If doing it this way remember to turn it left like a regular thread since you are turning the shaft now and not the impleller. It took about 5 - 3 to 5 second bursts but finally the impact gun broke it loose. Right before it actually broke free we hit just real quick with a tightening shot to shock it and on the next loosening attempt it broke it free. I had been working on this f&@!er for 2 weeks to get it off, Freezing over night, heating and repeat, mainly just hammering on my wrench to loosen it. So don't give up hope.. I was getting desperate, try an impact gun and heat. Good luck.
 
CHRISRACERX

CHRISRACERX

Get Wet
Location
Galloway, nj
If the bearings don’t sound crunchy, there is no need to remove the shaft. Just replace the seals. But taking everything apart you would drive the shaft down through the side where the nose cone was. 1 bearing will definitely come out. The second will probably stay in the vane guide. That has to banged,pressed, tapped, whatever your method may be out. If you replace the bearings make sure you pack them correctly with the correct grease. I use mercury/quicksilver 2-4-C grease.
 
racerx143

racerx143

Location
Florida
CHRISRACERX said:
If the bearings don’t sound crunchy, there is no need to remove the shaft. Just replace the seals. But taking everything apart you would drive the shaft down through the side where the nose cone was. 1 bearing will definitely come out. The second will probably stay in the vane guide. That has to banged,pressed, tapped, whatever your method may be out. If you replace the bearings make sure you pack them correctly with the correct grease. I use mercury/quicksilver 2-4-C grease.
Click to expand...

Water had gotten in and all the grease was milky so I wanted to rebuild it. Rebuilding wasn't the issue, getting the impeller off was the challange.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom