Wet sanding primer

[Pablo]

Do you guys always wet sand your primer? I have just prepped my WDK hood and nose by washing, drying, scuff/sanding with 600 grit, washed/dry again, wiped with tack cloth and now primed.

My priming paint said it's dry to touch in 30" and can be immediately recoated, topcoated or wet sanded. I have 600, 1200, 1500 grit wet sand paper. Do you guys recommend wet sanding? I'm not unhappy with the finish I have with the primer x2 coats. It if will make a big difference in the final product I'll wetsand...if not, I'm gonna skip it. I'm repainting with a single stage, polyurethane (nighthawk black metallic) and then hit it with some clear.

 

[suva]

I do, mainly to knock out all the dirt and whatnot that I get in my primer. I usually don't get much (if any) orange peel in the primer.

 

[txsuperjetfreak96]

blowsion told me to use a epoxy primer sealer, then use green scotch brite pads between coats, fixing to paint my ski so ill c how it goes.

 

[Daralekt]

I usually spray a guide coat, and wet sand my final coat of primer with 400 grit. there is no need to go any finer than 400 before applying base coat.

Ohh and wet sanding will make things easier on you. your sand paper wont clog up nearly as much as it would if you were dry sanding.

 

[cmeripper26]

Epoxy based primers are the best for resisting stress cracks in the gel coat and wet sand great with a 1200 or 1500 grit. U can check out my ski on my page on here. i use epoxy based primers only and wet sand the final primer coat for base coating.

 

[Flash-FX]

Do you guys always wet sand your primer? I have just prepped my WDK hood and nose by washing, drying, scuff/sanding with 600 grit, washed/dry again, wiped with tack cloth and now primed.

My priming paint said it's dry to touch in 30" and can be immediately recoated, topcoated or wet sanded. I have 600, 1200, 1500 grit wet sand paper. Do you guys recommend wet sanding? I'm not unhappy with the finish I have with the primer x2 coats. It if will make a big difference in the final product I'll wetsand...if not, I'm gonna skip it. I'm repainting with a single stage, polyurethane (nighthawk black metallic) and then hit it with some clear.

It's best to follow directions for the material you are using, and DON'T intermix different systems (unless u test/experiment first). All these new paint systems (low VOC) are in some ways better than the old school stuff. As far as primer goes, I've never seen surface prep sanding finer than #400. The substrate needs some "teeth" for the following color coats to adhere to (unless you are using a lacquer base paint that "melts" into the previous layer(s) while blending).

You mention a single stage poly black metallic with a clear finish coat(s)? Single stage is a one and done kinda thing. If clear coating, don't you want to use a 2 stage paint system?

Dry sanding with the finer grades of paper (400-2000) clog almost instantly without water, no problem wet sanding there. If you spend all the loot $$ for good materials, it would be a shame if your paint ended up a disaster. Make sure all moisture and solvents (pre-cleano) have evaporated well before laying down your top coats.

 

[Pablo]

It's best to follow directions for the material you are using, and DON'T intermix different systems (unless u test/experiment first). All these new paint systems (low VOC) are in some ways better than the old school stuff. As far as primer goes, I've never seen surface prep sanding finer than #400. The substrate needs some "teeth" for the following color coats to adhere to (unless you are using a lacquer base paint that "melts" into the previous layer(s) while blending).

You mention a single stage poly black metallic with a clear finish coat(s)? Single stage is a one and done kinda thing. If clear coating, don't you want to use a 2 stage paint system?

Dry sanding with the finer grades of paper (400-2000) clog almost instantly without water, no problem wet sanding there. If you spend all the loot $$ for good materials, it would be a shame if your paint ended up a disaster. Make sure all moisture and solvents (pre-cleano) have evaporated well before laying down your top coats.

I was under the assumption that a single stage still required a clear coat. I know the name "single stage" says it all...assumptions?! I typed 600, but used 400 for scuff/sand prep. I was afraid to go less than 400 for fear of scratch swirls. Wet sanding done...600/1200. Drying now. Thanks for good info FX.

 

[Papnschmilees]

single stage does not get clear coat over top. 2 stage paint does and is also called base coat/clear coat. I just repainted my truck black last summer in my garage. I spent a lot of money teaching myself how to paint. I bought all of the Videos by Kevin Tetz and I could take a look at them again if you want more detailed information.

As per the wet sanding the primer, from what I learned you will need to wet sand that primer before you paint all of the primers that I have dealt with require that they are sanded prior to applying the top coating.

They sell stuff called wax/grease remover that works great for cleaning the surface, then use a tack cloth and you are ready to shoot.

Edit: if you really are going to shoot clear over a single stage paint, i would recommended that you mix the clear and single stage 50/50 on your last coat instead of just shooting clear on it. because if the single stage paint you are using doesn't specify that you can shoot straight clear over it then it can cause you all types of problems related to how it will cure

paint dries from top to bottom but cures from bottom to top

 

[Papnschmilees]

Will you be spraying this yourself? and will you be using a HVLP gun?

 

[Crab]

220, prime, guide coat, 800 knock down the guide coat, base/clear

 

[Pablo]

Will you be spraying this yourself? and will you be using a HVLP gun?

was planning on shooting it myself with a buddies gun and equipment. I bought clear, but if I don't need it...I don't need it. I just made the assumption that even single stages required a top coat of clear. No worries though. It's def. not a show ski. I'm just trying to pretty her up one last time.

 

[Hogggman]

Dont use clear on a single stage bad things can happen. That is the point of it it shines itself . Dont use anything finer than 400 on primer. I am a ASE ceritified painter and paint show cars for a living if you have any questions you can pm me. If you wanted to make sure its smooth you could paint it let it dry for a day than hit it with 600 and re shoot it with a couple more coats.

 

[Papnschmilees]

Thats why I told him to mix the last coat if he wants more shine. but for a jet ski a good quality single stage will do just fine. Only thing with single stage is that is you do really bad on the paint you cant buff it out to make it shine...
when I did my truck I did not do so hot. I had some serious haze on most of my panels but since i used a bc/cc system AND put a ton of clear on it ( 4 coats) i knew i would have enough if i did a horrible job i could fix it.

I then spent the next 2 weeks final sanding the clear and getting it completely smooth.

another tip for you is when you are setting your gun pressure ( to whatever the paint says to use) make sure you are setting it with the trigger on the gun pulled. If you have any questions just as or PM me

 

[yamaslut]

basics:

• prime w/ an epoxy based primer after all the putty work is done
• apply guide coat w/ flat black primer
• sand w/ 220 grit paper
• fill any holes that are left w/ fine putty
• sand w/ 220 grit
• seal w/ epoxy based sealer
• base coat (DO NOT SAND BASE COAT)
• Clear

extra work for better finish:

• wet sand w/ 1500/2000grit
• buff w/ fine cut cleaner
• buff w/ swirl remover

I use a DTM primer that can be mixed to a heavy fill primer all the way to a sealer... The brand is Xtreme by 5 Star. It comes in black and grey depending on your color preference

http://images.google.com/imgres?img...340US340&tbs=isch:1&ei=YVK7S9ykBJ6k9ASUkojRAQ

 

[Papnschmilees]

X2 for Maguires swirl remover. I got the race glaze two stage system for buffing out my truck and that stuff was just about worthless. the swirl remover too everything right out very easily