Surfriding What has been your best and worst experience with crankshafts in your motor builds

Id like to hear your experiences with using various crankshafts stock stroke and strokers in your motor build over the last few yrs.The good the bad and ugly...People can be so worried about what to say on a forum about a product. Sometimes things never get openly discussed,and many more people fall in the same issue unknowingly. Pm me if you feel better about that.There are a few more choices these days. hotrods,wsm,oem,crankworks,adr,falicon,sbt just to name a few. Many times you hear one thing from one group of people and complete other from a diff group. This could be a good way to calculate it all.
 
DSCF3598.jpgDSCF3599.jpgDSCF3600.jpgDSCF3601.jpgDSCF3602.jpgDSCF3603.jpgthis is whats left of my dasa 850 5mm motor after the hot rods rod snapped in half. i didnt build it and i would never use hot rods junk on a 5000$ motor. an old jetski guru recommends having your rods X-rayed before you put them in anything good. sounds like a pretty darn good idea.
 
buzzard...pretty much total destruction..Ive seen quite a few of these carnage shots.quite a few were hot rods,some were not. How many hours was on this crank.Not much good to hear about the Wang ku company that produced hot rods.

Scott..blanket statements dont really help here without a incident to back it up,Im sure the St aug boys have a few of these they could share.Ive heard some very good things about wsm .../Su chi webs and yoko rods. Even some very good reports on sbt cranks in bb and 850 and up motors. youd be very surprised about where all these as well as oem are produced,sometimes in the very same factory with a diff end material produced.Ever looked close a oem crank and the koyo Mag bearing? The rods are the biggest issue on almost all failures im aware of,the quality of the raw material being diff grades of alloy and how well they are heat treated and forged being the biggest problem.Smaller things like Sung chi presses or ming chun webends are far less problematic..To some degree its a numbers game,not all will fail,but many will...

this is a good place to unfold the #s and see how things really are with certain brands....good or bad
 
there were not that many hours on this motor and when i wasnt hitting a flip or roll, i was riding it like a baby carriage. everything looked brand new except the parts that were destroyed or cut in half. like i said, i'm sure that rod had a casting flaw which caused the carnage.
 
oh i know its not all junk. the crank just needs rods, the cyl just needs a sleeve and a bit of mill work. good thing i have a fleet of badass skis to ride. i just kick the dead aside and keep beating. thanks tho
 

shawn_NJ

Chasing waves.
Location
Daytona Beach
If you are looking for past crank issues, last season I had a bearing start to fail on a 8month old new OEM crank in a XS865. I was very lucky and figured it out while proactively changing the wrist pin bearings. The top of rear cyl piston looked like something small went through the motor. Could not find anything on the topend, reeds, or carbs that was missing or damaged, so we cracked open the bottomend and found the crank had a bad/noisy rear cylinder bearing. Ski was never sunk and motor never got wet inside.
 
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seems every now and then the oem cranks crap out with low hours also.riding surf and never getting any water in your motor is a real feat,how did you manage that. Im guessing the epic ign prolly helped those bearings bite the dust alot quicker with random backfires on startups
 
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i had a low hour OEM crank crap out on me last year. when i pulled the head off to change the o rings, i noticed the edge of one piston was eroded a bit. i thought this was caused from 210 compression running old yellow varnish gas i always sucked out of every 440/550 that came thru the bone yard. it turned out to be the bearing cage coming apart on a center bearing. i noticed the crank moved back and forth in the cases a 1/4".when i split the cases, both end bearings slid off and hit the ground. they no longer were pressed on and actually fit loose. since the center bearing cage vaporized,all the balls rolled to the bottom and the outer race dropped down. i've never seen an OEM crank do this.
 

jahimmelspach

Having A Blast
Location
SE Michigan
two seasons ago we had an octane a guy on the other side of the state used to race. it was a true 59mph ski and ran great. bored to the gills, tired, but ran great. well...this is what happened a few weeks after purchase while just crusing. i guess it was too tired and time for a dirt nap. Wasn't much usable on the motor after tear down.

the ski just cut off and had a rough time starting. i got it started again and it ran for a sec them died. I didnt know what the problem was until i stuck my hand in the engine bay and felt a hole in the case..."There's your problem!"

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And I was going to say how good my Octane crank was... No idea how many hours were on it, had to be over 200. It ran on salt water and the bearings were completely shot, one cage had even fallen apart, but nothing ever broke and she ran strong till I retired her. Brand new OEM crank for me!
 
And I was going to say how good my Octane crank was... No idea how many hours were on it, had to be over 200. It ran on salt water and the bearings were completely shot, one cage had even fallen apart, but nothing ever broke and she ran strong till I retired her. Brand new OEM crank for me!

I can't believe that thing still ran with the amount of wear it had on it lol!
 

shawn_NJ

Chasing waves.
Location
Daytona Beach
seems every now and then the oem cranks crap out with low hours also.riding surf and never getting any water in your motor is a real feat,how did you manage that. Im guessing the epic ign prolly helped those bearings bite the dust alot quicker with random backfires on startups

You know what I mean...lol The motor was never swamped. Yes it def got normal surfriding water injestion. And I absolutely agree with you on the epic backfires probably causing the premature bearing failure.
 
Every one knows that an engine will eventually fail. The real knowledge is in the WHY? Is it a material/structural failure? If so, how many cycles till failure? Or was it an impurity in the material or even a treatment issue? Is it a design weakness? If so, what area? Not to insult anyone but I've seen way too many rod failures that were not started at the rod. I don't go to friend who's known a lot of sick people to see what’s wrong with me, I go to a trained professional. If you understand what one tiny spec of rust will do to one ball or roller on a bearing as it is subjected to the forces thrust upon it, the failure may not be what you initially see. I've seen guys say "oh the rod went". No, the rod was fine, it was the lack of good lubrication to the bearing that caused the bearing to stop and freeze in place, the rod had no where to go but bend on itself. Cranks will go. With the force it has to deal with and we are upping that all the time. If you want to cut down the potential loss of a failure then you need to service parts or even replace them before they are bad, but we (me included) wait for it to completely fail then we fix it. Pay now or pay more later.
BTW things like engine alignment will cause massive failures. Is it still aligned after that big nose in? You can buy the best crank but if you don't treat if right it will go to.
 
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