I hope you have done a lot more work since whe you ae in this picture. I recognize that you have said this is an early picture. I thinm your Nose in this picture is going to make a much better batterkng ram than jet ski.
Disclaimer on the following, i am another hobbiest not an expert, but this is what i have for you...
1) i have never worked with carbon, but unless you are going to vacuum bag the carbon, it is probably a waste of money to use. Yoj are likely better off bagging glass than not bagging carbon.
2) i like working with 1208 biax. There is 1708 as well. Biax is a structual glass that is easy to work with, as it is weave sewn to chop. I find woven cloth a little harder to lay flay and you can nlt use chop with epoxy (you need styrene in poly to disolve the starch kn the chop). I also like using conform cloth. This is absolutely not structual cloth, but lays nice and makes for a smoother finish to your job.
I usually use 3:1 epoxy, but i cant say that it is the best.
3) 1208 biax will be kn the ballpark of 1/8" per layer on a wet layup, and half that vacuum bagged. I dont know exactly how much you need, but it is better to over build than under build in my personal opinion.
4) make sure everything is prepped. This includes sanding all working areas with 80 grit paper And cleaning with acetone.
Brush on your resin, then lay your glass on it. Brush on more resin. The resin may take a few moments to penetrate the cloth so dont expect it to look fully wetted out the moment you bush it on, but do not move to the next layer until the previous is fully wetted out. Roll out the air also before moving to the next layers. Put your biax down pretty side up, and if you choose to use conform cloth, you put that down as yoju very last layer.
Couple of extras...
How much cloth you use is going to be dependant kn your application, a surf layup needs to be stronger than a flatwater layup. Do some research.
Plan your overlap. That is a huge repair so yoj will need a lot of overlap. You have to do the research to decide how much.
plan your seams. You should try avoid cutting the cloth, but you wlnt be able to do the entire job with only one piece per layer, so you will need to cut, and you will need proper overlap.
try to do the job all at once for a better chemical bond, but watch your pot life, it is better to do two good layups than one bad one. Also, do not go thicker than 1/4" in a single layup, although your job probably shouldnt be that thick anyway. If you need to do the job in more than one layup, wait for the first layup to pop, then beclme green, whkch is when kt is hardening but still flexible and tachy, you can then start your second layup while the first still has a little life left to it. Otherwise, you need tl sand the gloss off the 1st before you do the second.
for best results, rekove the foam when done, prep the inside of your new glasswork, and layup a sandwich overlap on the inside of the hull.
Lastly, you can use your foam to make a mold on the boat. To do this, you would have to cover your foam with something like bondo, paint, etc. Wax it, pva it, etc just like a mold.
Prep the hull for glass then Tape off the actual hull, then prep the foam like a mold. Do your first layer pretty side down, then the rest all the same. If you did this job right, the glass work you do will stick to the hull but nlt your foamed area then you can simply remove the foam from the inside easily, otherwise you need to grind the foam out.
