Whoa! Ski revs to full throttle!

jetskee

Team Not-As-Ugly-Anymore
Location
Newark, Ohio
Hey, guys, long time no post.

Here's the deal....

Ski ran fine at the end of last season. Winterized it, tucked it away in
the basement, no problems.

I got it out yesterday for the first time, put some gas in, fired it up, and
it revs up just like I have the throttle pegged. I thought "Weird...maybe it's
just burning off all the WD-40 I shot in it at the end of last season?".

So I took it to the lake anyway, and once it was in the water, it seemed OK, even though the idle was very high and I had the idle adjustment all the
way out. So it's still not normal, but I rode for an hour, no real
problems.

Took it out of the water, started it on the trailer, and IMMEDIATELY it revs to full throttle. So, I'm kinda stumped.

What I've checked so far:

- Throttle is working fine, cable is not stuck, the plate in the carb
closes like it should. The spring that holds the plate shut is strong....
even when it pegs at full throttle, it is not sucking open which is what
I thought might be happening.

- Changed spark plugs, just for the heck of it, same problem.

So, does this indicate a gasket leak somewhere? It has to be pulling air
from somewhere, if it isn't coming through the carb. Can it really suck that
much air to rev that high due to a gasket leak?

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
 

ski4

gonzo
Location
cleveland
my 750 did the same thing last year but even worse ran away and luckily mad matt ran up behind the ski and plugged my exhaust cuz it was not shutting of, no matter what
 

keefer

T1
Location
Tennessee
You better find that air leak before you toast that engine. It would be better to do a pressure test and buy a few gaskets as opposed to trashing a good top end. How many hours on that engine?
 

SuperJETT

So long and thanks for all the fish
Location
none
And don't forget, when it revs like that, hit the stop button AND PULL THE THROTTLE WIDE OPEN to kill it. Pulling the throttle stops the air from bypassing the carb.
 

douglee25

m3booooy
Location
South Jersey
Your idle could be set too high, or the carb is set up too lean. Try lowering your idle or richening your carb if you don't find any air leaks. Also, make sure your ski isn't low on gas.

Doug
 

djkorn1

kidkornfilms
Site Supporter
Location
Cleveland Ohio
Check your fuel lines also... air can often leak around the opening... your zip ties could actually be opening up your fuel lines.

When mine did that last year, I just choked it out.
 

Air Gramps

Air Gramps
Location
Virginia Beach
I have a 62T with dual fuel pump pressure line fittings.
I only use 1 and the cap fell off the other. The air leak would cause a run away.

It's lean, you can kill by choking, priming. You have to richen the mixture in.
 

jetskee

Team Not-As-Ugly-Anymore
Location
Newark, Ohio
SJBrit said:
Good question BK - I need to know whether to stock up on resin :)

Ha ha.... not making it to Lanier this year, unfortunately. Too much other stuff going on. New baby on the way, too!


Back to the problem at hand, how can I go about troubleshooting this,
not having a full shop of specialty tools on hand. Any "redneck" ways
of performing a pressure test to find the leak?

I thought MAYBE it might be my primer leaking, but I took it out of the mix last night and that didn't change anything.

I assume the exhaust side of things is not the culprit, right, since air is
being forced OUT the exhaust, not sucking in. I should focus on the
carb-to-manifold and the manifold-to-case gaskets?
Could be a head gasket leaking too, right?

I have a 46mm Mikuni on it, with 115 low and 140 high jets. I was wondering
if maybe the difference in temp/humidity from last fall to this spring
would make a difference, and maybe the 115 is too restrictive and I should put a larger low jet in?

The idle adjust is turned ALL the way out, so it's not that.

And the ski is full of gas.

Thanks for the help, guys.
 

wayne

wannaroll
Location
Mesquite, Texas
my sj did this and it was the front seal on the crank. being a kawi you can change the front seal with out tearing the engine apart. it think the front seal in held in with a plate. the guy at the shop where i had mine diagnosed said that if it was a kawi he would just pull the flywheel and replace the seal, but the sj had to have crank pulled. hopefully this helps.
 

Cane700

Broken Jetskiier
Location
Chicago, IL
You can make an air leak test kit with some rubber and an air pressure guage. Watcon sells the kit ready to go if you don't want to make a set. You will need pull the pipe and carbs and seal the intake and exhaust with the rubber plates. I would also advise pulling the motor from the hull too. if you have dual pulse fitting put a cap on one of the them and pump air into one of them. I can't remember the how much pressure you need to pump in there(I will look it up when I get home) the air pressure should hold for a certain amount of time. If you have a leak you should spray all the seals with soapy water or windex and look for air bubbles.
 
I fought this exact thing two years ago. Put my ski away for four months and whammo this same problem occurred. It ended up being crank seals. My front one had oil leaking behind the flywheel. Pull the front ignition cover and see if there is any sign of oily residue in the housing. The flywheel spins it to the sides or there will be some in the bottom of the housing. I know this is probably something you don't want to hear, but this is my bet on what is going on with your motor.

Did you fog your motor before you stored it? If so what brand of fogging oil. I want to find out what happened also. My thought is maybe WD-40 of some fogging oils have adverse affects on the seals over time. Similar to how an o-ring will swell when put in certain solvents.
 
hey jetskee, post the video that you made a couple years back with that goofy "doe doe doe.... doe.. doe doe" song in it. that was great!....


please?
 
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