SX/SXi/SXi Pro Wow... What a let down after $1,825 spent.

BrightE's

Paul
Location
Seattle, WA
So, here I was, 2 months into my search for a 750sx, the first jet ski I would ever own. I was well on my way to getting a nice ski (after seeing many with a lot of issues). Made the arrangements, drove 3 hours to get the ski, paid the guy $1,825 because of the amazing condition of the outside of the ski, the Wiseco pistons, the Skat Trak, etc. I was excited to finally find a 750sx in good shape with good compression (150 psi on each head). Started up like a beaut and purr'd like a kitten.

So I brought her home and over the last few weeks have been getting to know her more (haven't ridden yet, but went over all systems and parts until I understood their function and level of importance).

In preparing the ski for the Factory Pipe I bought for it, I noticed some fluid in the combustion chamber - of which I posted pics of earlier. No big deal I thought - until I pulled the engine to get off the cheap plastic case valve on the bottom side and the entire engine started oozing this thick, rusty, goop. It went on leaking it until there was a big puddle under the engine on the concrete. I knew I had a problem - and sure enough, after taking apart the engine, the entire thing is shot - rusted goo everywhere. It seems like it wasnt winterized for a few years in a row and just left to sit, soaking up its own moisture.

The pistons need to go, they're worn and burnt to a crisp on top, one of the connecting rod wrist pin bearings is the culprit for all the rust, or at least the start of it - needs new bearing, and a new connecting rod because its pitted. The cylidner walls are either due for a very nice honing, or a 0.5mm+ bore and hone... more $$$

Dug deeper - 2 of the four crank case bearings are making a lot more noise than I'm comfortable with. So they need replaced.

Now I'm looking at having to buy an entire new crankshaft assembly because I can't for the life of me find just the bearings available anywhere, needing two new pistons and everything they come with, and needing to get a bore and hone for the clyinders. Not to mention I need to have every piece of the engine dunked in a hot chemical bath to rid all traces of rust - what a nightmire.

So my first purchase now that started at $1,825 (I know, I overpaid, but I had finally after months of seeing jetski's and walking away because of this or that, had finally found a keeper), is now going to be adding some $700+ just to get it running for more than just the summer - ughh....

There is also pitting or damage where the crankshaft bearings meet the crankcase... not sure if this is going to cause me problems yet (the stock bearings have seals that ride right on top of the pitting), or if I'll get by without needing to get a new case.

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Location
dfw
Clean out all the rust, reassemble, and finish the season. It will probably last a lot longer than you think. If you want to fix it, find a big pin case, and use SBT crank and pistons. Use your old cylinder and head. You may have to file the bottom corners of the liners to clear the larger crank. Always budget in a basic overhaul on any used ski because they ALL have been swamped and neglected at some point.
 
Location
NW PA
you can find whole 750 motors for less than $700 if you want to go that route and be riding in a week, work on that engine in the meantime as a spare engine. It shouldn't take $700 to rebuild the engine, I spent $250 rebuilding a 701 engine and that included going over .25mm + all new pistons rings gaskets etc. You should be able to get on the water for less than $700
 

RivMan

doing something stupid...
Site Supporter
Location
Pinckney, MI
Put it together and ride! Build a spare engine in your spare time, and have it ready if you chunk your current one.

-Rob
 

BrightE's

Paul
Location
Seattle, WA
Thanks for all the positive feedback everyone. I suppose I will just clean and oil the thing - maybe replace that half frozen piston wrist bearing, and be on with it for the summer.

Some of the carbon build up on the pistons is very excessive, and I would like to remove every trace of rust from all the engine components - can you fella's help recommend a particular degreaser/cleaner/carbon remover (or soaker) that I can use before I hit everything with before WD-40ing and greasing everything back up?

The cheap paper gaskets are also nearly impossible to remove - any advice on getting those off without scaring the surfaces with screw drivers and every other tool I take to it before realizing I've damaged it more than it was!
 
I agree brother....clean everything best you can and run that beast til she blows and be building another in the meantime, if this is your first ski, you just need some time in the tray. Kawi 750 motors are tougher than you think man, it may last a while. Good luck
 

BrightE's

Paul
Location
Seattle, WA
Thanks for all the wishes everyone, I unfortunately have some worse news. The two loud bearings I had found the other night are now completely seized. I broke one loose enough to spin it around a few times after caking it in WD-40, but the other wont budge.

Any advice on this now?
 

BruceSki

Formerly Motoman25
Location
Long Island
buy an SBT crank and top end or youll be pulling that motor back apart shortly. That is if it doesn't blow itself apart first.

Those bearings on the crank and wrist pins are all toast after having water sit on them this long.
 
Location
NW PA
there is a big difference between surface rust on a crank and water that has been sitting in a bearing for the winter, you need a rebuilt crank, do it right the first time.
 

BrightE's

Paul
Location
Seattle, WA
What of the pitting in the crankcase where the bearings meet it? I am assuming this was caused by seized bearings being forced to turn as if they were a solid bushing - and causing the pitting in the case. Will this be sealable with a standard engine sealant when I reassemble?
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