You should not use poly resin. You should use epoxy.
I prefer 3:1 laminating resin with 1208 bias because it's was what I started with and it has worked good.
That is a lot of damage and you should probably remove all of the damaged areas. But, before you start cutting, let me tell you how I would repair it.
I personally use a method I made up called on the part. You use the existing hull to make a mold of the damaged area several inches larger than the damage. The hen use this mood to repair the hull.
To make the mold, You can fill any damaged areas with a cheap product like drywall mud or spackle and finish it with cheap spray appliance epoxy. Wax the hull, pva optional it can be brushed on, then layup a few layers of glass. If using 1208 without a vacuum, 2-3 is fine and you can use poly resin for this if you have it on hand. Once the mood is cured, remove it from the hull.
Now cut out the damaged hull as you were planning to in the beginning. Save the waterbox straps of course. Once you have all the damaged removed, prep the inside of the hull by removing any ribs or other objects in the way, sand with 80 and clean with acetone.
Now you are ready for your repair. Wax your mold and reattach it by some means you prefer like tape or straps. The mold should be waxed but the hull should not. Layup your repair using the mold to shape the repair in place. If using 1208 you want to use 3-4 layers on the nose if not bagging. Use your mood thickness to gauge if you need more layers of glass in the repair. Let cure. Once the repair has cured, remove the mold and admire your work.
Complete any body work with epoxy mixed with a filler such as talc. Do not use microsperes are they will leave pin holes in your finish.
Reinstall your waterbox straps by installing hull inserts. You can use stainless steal tee barbed tee nuts but they are hard to find in metric. I would suggest you use Ufos from jetmaniac so you can keep with all metric hardware. Whatever you use, it must be stainless or brass.
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