Light colored premix oil?

[mbrick]

Bought a new 2016 SuperJet, from the original owner who only had it a few months. Never went in the water and has original fuel from the dealer.

Does anyone know what premix the dealer may have used? Or what premixes are not dyed?
The gas in the tank is nearly clear.

It smoked when I started it in the garage, and the plugs are a tad oily as expected so I highly doubt it is straight gas.

This may sound odd but I want to continue using light oil as to not stain the brand new tank.
The Pennzoil Premium I use is dark blue...

Pic attached:

 

[37]

Maxima 927 is yellow. http://www.maximausa.com/product/castor-927/

The trick to keeping your tank from discoloring is not to expose it to the sun. UV kills plastic. I've run Klotz R50 (which is dark red) for a full year in my '16 and it hasn't discolored my tank or opaque white fuel jugs. None of them sit in the sun. All are topped with fuel most of the time.

Ran the same oil in an SXR tank that I bought new in '14 for an aftermarket hull. Sold it in '16 and it was as white as factory.

 

[Factory928]

I would have siphoned 2016 gas out.... maxima castor 927 has a light color but I doubt the dealer used that. Your being to picky on the gas tank, nothing lasts forever. Your better off buying a used tank and running it until your wanting to sell it then throw the good tank back in it if your trying to make it look new?

 

[mbrick]

Maxima 927 is yellow. http://www.maximausa.com/product/castor-927/

The trick to keeping your tank from discoloring is not to expose it to the sun. UV kills plastic. I've run Klotz R50 (which is dark red) for a full year in my '16 and it hasn't discolored my tank or opaque white fuel jugs. None of them sit in the sun. All are topped with fuel most of the time.

Ran the same oil in an SXR tank that I bought new in '14 for an aftermarket hull. Sold it in '16 and it was as white as factory.

Ok, I always keep the hood on and a cover on the ski so UV shouldn't be an issue.

I thought about 927, but no way the dealer would mix that in. It also does not smell like bean oil.

I'll look into the Klotz, where do you buy from?
Edit: looks like the R50 has a high flash point, similar to castor. Doesn't seem as ideal for a ski? Also nearly the cost of 927, so it must be a variant of castor.

I would have siphoned 2016 gas out.... maxima castor 927 has a light color but I doubt the dealer used that. Your being to picky on the gas tank, nothing lasts forever. Your better off buying a used tank and running it until your wanting to sell it then throw the good tank back in it if your trying to make it look new?

Agreed, I was thinking of siphoning it out. I have not taken it on the water yet.

I don't want to go so far as buying another tank but I am meticulous about my stuff being clean.

 

[37]

I'll look into the Klotz, where do you buy from?

Their factory is only an hour from my house. Cases of oil ship free so I usually only go there for race gas.

I like dark oil since it's easy to know if it's mixed. The only light colored oil I'd run is 927.

Edit: looks like the R50 has a high flash point, similar to castor. Doesn't seem as ideal for a ski? Also nearly the cost of 927, so it must be a variant of castor.

No, R50 is pure synthetic race oil. Super Techniplate is 80/20 synthetic/castor and similar to 927.

I've run 32:1 for decades in my skis. Maxima has a good write-up on oil retention and migration. http://www.maximausa.com/pdf/Oil Migration Sheet.pdf

 

[mbrick]

Have you run Klotz Skicraft? Looks like that is their main marine premix oil.

 

[37]

Have you run Klotz Skicraft? Looks like that is their main marine premix oil.

Never used it. I personally don't like TC-W3 oils, even from Klotz. Here's why: http://x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/yamalube-2r-or-2w-for-2016-superjet.184494/#post-1941317

 

[mbrick]

Ok, your explanation makes sense. No power valves in the 701 and I'm not concerned about smoke.

How about the Klotz Super Techniplate? Do you know how it compares to the R50? Reading further, the R50 is full synthetic while the Super appears to be synthetic + 20% castor. I don't think the marine engines run hot enough for castor.
Also considering Maxima Super M.

I am thinking Pennzoil Premium dino oil that I have for the two tanks of break in, then switch. Seems like the general consensus is to run dino oil for break in.

 

[Big Kahuna]

Dealer would have used either Yamalube or possibly a seadoo oil. Klotz Ski Craft is perfectly fine. Most people tend to get oil that is more than they needed. I ran Klotz Benol in my Stock Class SXR. But when I rode, if not running bouys or racing, I would run WOT the whole time helping to build endurance, Rougher the water the better.

 

[yamabro]

Like Big Kahuna said... if it came from the dealer and the fuel still looks it's more natural color then more than likely it's Seadoo 2-stroke oil.

 

[Mike W]

Yea, it is probably the Seadoo XPS oil.

 

[37]

How about the Klotz Super Techniplate? Do you know how it compares to the R50? Reading further, the R50 is full synthetic while the Super appears to be synthetic + 20% castor. I don't think the marine engines run hot enough for castor.
Also considering Maxima Super M.

This thread might help since Benol just came up the other day: http://x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/klotz-benol-premix-okay.184887/

R50 is race oil but I've never had issues with rust as some claim with pure synthetics. I wouldn't run it with ethanol fuel since it doesn't mix well with alcohol. That might be why some claim to have problems with certain synthetics. Not sure how Super M compares.

927 is the only Maxima product I've used. It's the only yellow colored oil I personally know about. I agree with the others that it's not likely what's in your tank now. I only mentioned it for color.

Super Techniplate is 80% R50 and 20% Benol. Pure castor works fine if you're racing but not as well in a rec ski. 20% is enough to burn clean but still have the protection of castor.

 

[Jhucke]

This thread might help since Benol just came up the other day: http://x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/klotz-benol-premix-okay.184887/

R50 is race oil but I've never had issues with rust as some claim with pure synthetics. I wouldn't run it with ethanol fuel since it doesn't mix well with alcohol. That might be why some claim to have problems with certain synthetics. Not sure how Super M compares.

927 is the only Maxima product I've used. It's the only yellow colored oil I personally know about. I agree with the others that it's not likely what's in your tank now. I only mentioned it for color.

Super Techniplate is 80% R50 and 20% Benol. Pure castor works fine if you're racing but not as well in a rec ski. 20% is enough to burn clean but still have the protection of castor.

I run ski-craft on my boat because I was told that R50 is just too thick of an oil for my superjet even If I am racing it. It's just stock, no porting, no compression, but I run the pipe kind of dry... What are you running R50 on?

 

[37]

I run ski-craft on my boat because I was told that R50 is just too thick of an oil for my superjet even If I am racing it. It's just stock, no porting, no compression, but I run the pipe kind of dry... What are you running R50 on?

You were told R50 is too thick? WTF? I run R50 at 32:1 in anything from ported strokers to my Lites/Spec SJ. Oil doesn't know what engine it's going into. I do it for the crank bearings.

Ski-Craft is fine. I'm not here to sell anyone oil. I only mentioned it above because of the tank discoloration question. Too thick though... lol

 

[Jhucke]

You were told R50 is too thick? WTF? I run R50 at 32:1 in anything from ported strokers to my Lites/Spec SJ. Oil doesn't know what engine it's going into. I do it for the crank bearings.

Ski-Craft is fine. I'm not here to sell anyone oil. I only mentioned it above because of the tank discoloration question. Too thick though... lol

Now you have me thinking my builder was referring to a different oil.. Snowmobile super tech or max 927 maybe, idk. Good to know, though.

 

[mbrick]

Tried removing the tank and could not get it out with the engine in place. So I siphoned the old gas out.

Hooked up a hose to the reserve line and gave a small hit of air pressure through the fuel cap. Started a siphon and it sucked it all out down to about 1/8" in the bottom of the tank.

Good thing Factory928 mentioned ditching this old gas, it smelled bad/stale. Fresh fuel is the way to go.

 

[Big Kahuna]

you have to pull at least the battery out. 2 straps, 2 screws to disconnect the cables. 60 seconds at most.

 

[mbrick]

I removed the battery and battery box. Seemed like it was still too tight to fit between the exhaust and front of the engine bay opening. I also didn't want to scrape it on all sides on the way out.

Water under the bridge, siphoning it also worked

 

[Big Kahuna]

did you undo the fuel filler hose?

 

[mbrick]

Yes. I had it about 1/3 out but it would not fit past the exhaust. Didn't snap a photo, I will next time I try it (probably won't be for a while).