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Alright just took care of it, can’t wait to see how it hardens but came out great from how it all layed up and went on. Should be super strong I got plenty of distance covered around it. Thanks for the help all.

Great I will check that out and get to work! Thankyou very much for your help

I got the crack all prepped and grinded and getting ready to cut out my s-glass to shape and sizes just want to know how many layers you guys think I will need to make this strong enough? Thanks!

yeah I figure that. The bump I won’t mind too much. I will grind the surrounding glass and then regales in the divot of it. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks!

great I have plenty of 8oz S glass at home and Cabosil. How many layers of s glass would you say Is sufficient? And should I let the Cabosil mix dry before laying glass on it? Thanks in advance! @fastgtfairlane

Hello all, finally time to start riding again this season as I’m prepping my ski to go out for the first run this year I am looking over it after the winter to make sure all is well and I notice a crack on the lower section of the hull on the side near the back. I have dremeled the crack to see...

Sounds good I will give that a shot and see how it goes thankyou

All above is great Info thankyou guys for the good responses, but as shown I have it plumbed as it should be, the hose loops up to the top of the engine bay and is connected to the plastic 90* fitting which is not cracked or clogged and some how is still pushing water into the engine bay, it is...

Yes the bilge is 100% connected to the proper spot on the pump reduction nozzle, and my reduction nozzle fitting does not appear to be tampered with or touched, and I just did a defoam and refoam recently checked all my thru hull hoses and they looked good. Can’t think of what else it might be...

Hello all, I have a 96 superjet all stock with stock bilge and a rule 500 electric bilge, took it out recently and it kept having to drain water every 15 seconds for a few seconds then stop and keep doing that over and over, so today I took it to the boat ramp to see what it was and I ran it in...

Awesome. Thanks everyone for the help so I can get this resolved and get back on the water before the end of the season

Awesome. Good to hear, gonna order some cables tonight then. What company sells some for a good price or where can I get some if there’s an alternative? Thanks.

Just bench tested the starter using the battery of the ski and it spun good with no hiccups or issues. Does this mean it’s likely good and I should be looking at new wiring instead?

Great, I can bench test now and see. How will I know if it’s good during the bench test? Also where can I get a good set of all new cables for the ski for a decent price. Gonna replace all battery cables and starter cable while I’m in there

Found needed part.

Ok so I took the starter out and I also tested the cable going from the ebox to the starter and I cut it back about 1” bc the end so was badly corroded it was getting flashy readings of up to 4.04 resistance but averaged in the 3.xx. I’m assuming that much resistance is extremely bad and was...

So I tested the battery and it was 12.5v when sitting there and 10.0v minimum under starting load, then I tested the starter and got a 7.4v max to the starter does that seem normal?

Thanks for the responses guys, I’ll try checking cables and getting new ones. Also the cable gets extremely hot at the end near the connection on the starter itself but only warm by the ebox so I’m guessing that means the end by the starter is bad?

Also, say the battery is bad, is it possible the battery could cause that or unlikely? Starters are fairly cheap so I would replace it anyway most likely. Just seems like a pain to take all the exhaust out to do it haha

I do have a multimeter. I will check both of them tomorrow, how to I test each thing and what should the readings be? Thanks