I played around with the caps quite a bit. Seemed like it maybe helped but didn't quite solve it. I've walked away from it for the past week or so. Was getting frustrated with the project. I was debating moving the latching circuit after the 5v regulator. This would mean you need to...
I was originally using TE bistable latching relays. I switched because I think it’s a mistake to use anything mechanical in this application. Even the current shifty module has issues with hard flat landers sometimes.
I'm now running an NLP14 noco in my xfs and dvx. Only been running them for about a month but so far so good. price is right compared to antigravity and you can buy an extended warranty on amazon for 4 years pretty cheap. Will keep the thread up to date if i have any issues. They are IP67...
Most people double or triple layer the check valve on the kidney block to lessen the dribble.
Edit: sorry didn’t see your follow up post that you did this
Nice I’ll simulate this later today. My circuit uses ground for both start and stop. I actually think there might be less noise if I used 12v like the factory did. Thanks for the help though. This might work better
I haven’t debugged this at all yet. It’s not waiting for a connection though - simply plugging in a usb/TTL converter (not even hooked to a laptop) lets it run.
So, here's the current schematic for this. I'm struggling with two things currently:
1. The latching start/stop circuit is not working in practice. There's a bunch of noise causing inconsistent on/off latching. I tried adding a bunch of diode protection before the raw 12v gets to the BJTs but...
Update: my latest board revision is not working as expected. Power supply is much more stable but the latching circuit is not working. I’m going to replace some components and test a few things. Hopefully I can get it worked out.
You could absolutely run charging if you want. Just keep a flywheel with magnets and the charging components. Will I guess you’d have to run a 62t flywheel since the 760 components would be In the way of the trigger wheel. They don’t tie into the ignition at all. With the smart coil setup you...
That flywheel will work with the dual channel system if you remove one magnet. The trigger and trigger plate should also work if you drill holes for a second pickup. Just dropping a note for others as that’s not a bad deal for a spare flywheel.
Is there a magnet in the flywheel or lumps? It might work either way but I think that’s a standard hall sensor which prob won’t work. I forget the type of sensor a 760 has but it’s not a standard hall sensor. Borut makes a hall sensor version of his ignitions you can custom order though (I believe)
Yes all logic level on the board. The use of smart coils moves the drivers to the body of the coils. If i do a CDI version, i will develop external CDI drivers.
Just to reiterate my goals - I'm not really trying to make the easiest to use, most plug an play ignition. This is for advanced...
I'm sensing some negativity here. Maybe I'm reading into it. I appreciate the input. However, this will be considerably cheaper than any of those options you listed. You are correct, functionally its no different than any other commonly available aftermarket ECU. If you want to run...
I'd kinda like to have a fully functional setup before sharing the schematic and board layout but I do plan to open source it at that point. I think it would be possible to use the factory pickup on a 760 for sure. It would likely need to be wasted spark unless the 3rd lump can be used to...
Ya had some issues with second revision. 3rd revision is on its way with solid state latching circuit and other improvements. I did water test Rev 1 on my 1200 and it ran great!
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