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The crank popped right out with no heat. Checking build threads it seems some people use a bearing retaining compound. Is that recommended in this engine? Some loctite 620?

@amitchell The crank is on the way to be rebuilt. New upper bearings, piston rings and circlips are on the way. I have a few questions: I don't see any seals between the crankcase halves. So I will seal those with Loctite 5699 per the manual. The Octane parts diagram and the manual show...

Ya, that is all I see is a little rust on the piston rings and a just barely in some crank areas. I'll send it out when I know where it goes. I left a VM on Eric's phone Friday.

Anything else you'd like to see?

The disassembly is finished. Pictures as promised.

@amitchell Yes, no rust in the cylinders, domes, pistons, wrist pins, upper bearings.... I haven't split the case that holds the crank yet. I just need to figure out the right part numbers and what to order. What are the correct needle bearings for the wrist pins? What are the right c clips...

@speedysprocket I am used to following manuals. I'm not use to "sorta" following manuals. I won't be doing any honing. I'll be finishing the teardown today or tomorrow. Lots of pics to come. Cylinder walls and rings look good to me for now.

I appreciate the support of everyone here. I'm super bummed... but hopefully I'll learn a lot and get this thing up and running quick. Reading the Octane manual it says that honing/deglazing needs to be done in the cylinders before new rings so they can break in with the honed (roughened)...

I got the head off, easily enough. O-rings look good. Cooling passages are clear. What is the best way to split the cylinders from the lower case? There is some sort of black rubbery sealant. Is there a puller type tool that will run on the studs?

I bought this as a "fresh build".... so I was hoping to get a good season or two of real riding on it before I had to go this far. The initial leakdown test was good. Pressurized to 8psi. 10min later it was at 6psi. It does look like there may be a crack in the case. Some grey oil water was...

So this is looking like a complete tear down, yes? Starting with the head, just keep taking pieces off layer by layer? While I have it apart, should I change anything else since I'm in there? Rings? I don't even know what gaskets, etc this engine uses. Thanks for the support guys. I'll...

@amitchell I guess that means I get to learn more about jet ski engines than I ever have. I don't have much experience, and I have never pulled a crank out so - hopefully I can lean on some of the board members for assistance. I have a SJ manual and an Octane manual. Between the two I hope...

I have no idea how long the water was in there.... and I don't know how it got in there. It looked quite clean when it came out.

I bought a EME Ski with a EME 1000 in it two years ago. Due to work and various issues I only rode it twice. It ran strong and was fun those days. No hard crashes, no sinking, great power. I cleaned it nicely and put it away for just over a year. It was fogged. I put fresh fuel lines and...

Over half of the people I asked said go OEM, so I did. Is there an OEM rebuilld kit?

Then you can just get an offset key, ya? Is anyone reworking old flywheels or should they be considered consumable parts if you break a tooth or slip a ring? They are pretty spendy items!

What do you think about this? https://powerfactorproducts.com/index.php/engines/engine-parts/powerfactor-total-loss-flywheel-trigger-plate-detail

Is there a non-charging version made? I'm running a Total Loss MSD in mine and I'm worried about repairs in the future.