I use to be in the heat up the plastic camp........I am NOT anymore. Mask off the upper hull with wide painters tape. Use a scotchbrite pad to work all the oxidization off the trim. If it's real bad I've been known to stel wool or even razor blade scrape it off. Wipe it all clean with alcohol...
That same trick also works well to stiffen up cases. I like to mix a bunch of aluminum shavings into the epoxy to help keep expansion rates similar to the cases.
Swap out your shocks to the Monroe "Load Handler". Your truck will ride nice AND be able to haul more without bottoming. You'll probably need to look through specs cause I'm betting you need shorter than stock length. Nice OBS too! We'll be at the OBS nats end of May on Minitruckin row.
Anytime I get a can actually get a scammers number.......I like to list Chevelles, 57 chevy's, C10's etc, on all the large nearby Craigslists for cheap and give out the scammers number. Sorry Bastids!
Wasn't the Hydro-Ski the one that Greg Nichols had something to do with? I used to have a Nichols "Trident" picklefork ski YEARS ago. It was all carbon fiber.
I've got a whole herd of Polaris machines here with the Fuji triples I need to fix. All have a holed piston. Thing is the looks of them. They just look "dated" and don't bring much money. But these Fuji machines are VERY reliable and pretty fast after the carb updates.
The motor mounts are on the same plane front to rear.......why not just shave that area down by 1/4"......then add a long strip of stainless 1/4" thick. BAM.....multiple mounting locations just by drilling and tapping holes.
I'll bet it's going to have very little (if any) springback to it after you remove the spreaders. As for the flange.........well.......I'm going out on a limb here and gonna say OVERALL fit-n-finish was "good enough". I mean, why spend any more time making everything real nice when they could...
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