05 SJ surf/free reinforce/build-up

[snowxr]

I think using foam on the bondline is not good also .Foam has no strength .Ii realize it's just for smoothing out the surface for a better bond with the cloth but Marine bondo or resin would do the same thing and add strength as well.:biggthumpup:

I think the foam was a good idea. It doesn't have a lot of strength by itself, but the way it was used will give the reinforcement glass a shape that will promote strength, as long as the glass stays laminated to the hull around it. Think about it like a piece of tubing, compared to a round bar of the same wieght. The tube has greater surface area and more rigidity. The foam forms the core, and the surrounding glass acts much like a tube.

Just adding resin would add wieght, but no more strength. Marine bondo ( aka Duraglass) is a filler, but still doesn't have strength.

Good job with the glass!
Kurt

 

[sjetrider]

I think the foam was a good idea. It doesn't have a lot of strength by itself, but the way it was used will give the reinforcement glass a shape that will promote strength, as long as the glass stays laminated to the hull around it. Think about it like a piece of tubing, compared to a round bar of the same wieght. The tube has greater surface area and more rigidity. The foam forms the core, and the surrounding glass acts much like a tube.

Just adding resin would add wieght, but no more strength. Marine bondo ( aka Duraglass) is a filler, but still doesn't have strength.

Good job with the glass!
Kurt

I agree w/ the foam as well, saves a few #'s and the glass will creat an "I" beam or tube type strength. Resin add more wieght then strength IMO. He mentioned in initial thread, the strenght comes from the glass not the resin. The idea is to adhear to the existing glass leaving as little resin behind as poss. Again, JMO. Nice work bro, any chance you were able to wiegh it in before and after reinforcement?

 

[yamaslut]

should have ground off those ribs.. wait till you go to put the Bpipe in... it will be a pain.

 

[FL-cracker]

I agree with both Snowxr and Sjetrider on this one as well. Your work looks awsome man!

 

[Rickster]

I agree w/ the foam as well, saves a few #'s and the glass will creat an "I" beam or tube type strength. Resin add more wieght then strength IMO. He mentioned in initial thread, the strenght comes from the glass not the resin. The idea is to adhear to the existing glass leaving as little resin behind as poss. Again, JMO. Nice work bro, any chance you were able to wiegh it in before and after reinforcement?

The biggest problem with foam in the bondrail as I see it, is it only becomes structural if there is un-compromised glass on both sides.

The bondrail of the SJ is put together with green glue that is not only inconsistently used by the manufacture, but is also brittle and can crack with consistant pounding.

Once this happens, you lose any structural integrity the foam (sandwiched with glass) will give.

Resin is not structural, but resin mixed with milled fibers definitely is.

I did my bondline yesterday, and I might have added 1 pound of resing/fiberglass in the bondrail, but I know it will take a jack hammer to break that bondline apart.

my $.02

 

[sjetrider]

The biggest problem with foam in the bondrail as I see it, is it only becomes structural if there is un-compromised glass on both sides.

The bondrail of the SJ is put together with green glue that is not only inconsistently used by the manufacture, but is also brittle and can crack with consistant pounding.

Once this happens, you lose any structural integrity the foam (sandwiched with glass) will give.

Resin is not structural, but resin mixed with milled fibers definitely is.

I did my bondline yesterday, and I might have added 1 pound of resing/fiberglass in the bondrail, but I know it will take a jack hammer to break that bondline apart.

my $.02

Good point. How does WCF and XFT do it? And I agree w/ slut a little further grinding on ribs would have made the air pockets easier to get out too.

 

[Rickster]

Good point. How does WCF and XFT do it?

I cannot speak for XFT, but I beleive WF uses epoxy glue to glue the top and bottom together, and then epoxy w/ milled fibers in the bond line both in the bilge, and outside between the two decks.

 

[yamaslut]

i think the foam will work fine... reason being, ive never seen a superjet hull break at the bondline .. they always break at the hoodlip and other curved/thin areas of the hull. from what ive read, the biggest gripes people have with the bondlines are that they leak water which is what contributes to the foam soggage in teh rear of teh ski.

mind you, ive reinforced all my skis' bondlines too (better safe than sorry).. ive just never seen a hull break there.. reinforced or otherwise..

they do.... I've seen it and done it to my square

 

[yamaslut]

10-4..

ive never done it (nor seen it).. i always see the breakage start on the hood lip. got any pics?

it breaks right above the bond line where the flange starts to stick out from the side... Not the actual flange and return flange... that won't break

 

[demolition_x]

another thing with the foam i would imagine is that it has no chemical bond to the glass. atleast when west and 404 are used you apply the glass over it wet so the glass is chemically bonded to that area.

 

[Rickster]

ive never done it (nor seen it).. i always see the breakage start on the hood lip. got any pics?

Come look at my square, it is cracking right above the bondline....:biggrin:

 

[beachedflunkey]

I've seen the crack at the flange on my 05 and an 04 (several cracks). I've reinforced both under the rail and in the bond line of those and two other rn's since...

 

[Frosty]

it breaks right above the bond line where the flange starts to stick out from the side... Not the actual flange and return flange... that won't break

Yup... my '01 is cracking at the flange (under the lip) on both sides... about 18" long. Going to reinforce over the winter.

 

[yamaslut]

yeah ed, it happens a lot... I would agree, its similar to the blaster issue.

 

[newman]

Finally got her tuned and stickered up (temporarily)

Footwells turfed. Kicker tail installed.

Pretty bad crack in the hood. I am looking for a new hood, once i get it, i'll reapply new stickers...

Mod list:
500GPM Bilge
Lowered billet handpole bracket
Factory Pipe mode pipe.
Aftermarket water box
Scupper Valve
Reinforced hull
Bilge controller
Jet Dynamics Intake Grate
Skat Trac Prop
Footwells
Camo Hydro Turf
Lightened Handpole Bracket
Kicker Tail
Factory Pipe Flow controller
Blowsion Chinpad Cover
Billet water Fittings
Kenny Keepers

Probably Forgetting a few things...

 

[hangtime]

I have a brand new 06 hood of you are interested in stock :biggthumpup: