SX/SXi/SXi Pro 1100 triple in my sxi advice

Location
USA
Friend was telling me the exhaust on a 900 is a bit narower, so it would fit without any mods. Anyways, might be idea for a winter build...
 
Location
Montana
The 900 pipe is a bit smaller but it still doesn't fit in the sxi hull. I know cause that's what I'm working with. I just cut down my driveshaft to fit the 900 so now I'm gonna be milling off material off the exhaust manifold and maybe some off the exhaust side of the cylinders to hopefully make it all fit without a hull chop. Ill keep you informed with how much I take off.
 
i had to cut a lil of the side of the chamber and welded a new chamber plate then a jacket plate. that was with out milling the exhaust flange side. i know milling will reduce how much you have to take off the chamber. i would much rather do that than mod the hull
 
Honestly just mock it up with the engine and manifold, but without the pipe and you should be able to get an idea. You can't go too far or else you remove too much of the flange. I'd guess maybe 1/4"? Certainly you'd want to be careful about going much more. Idk.. just a ballpark guess without any manifold in front of me.

Good idea about milling the flange. I think that's a much cleaner install than blistering the hull or cutting and welding the pipe. Also I really like how the exhaust exits straight back to the stock waterbox. I'm sure that drilled a bit would flow a 1100 decent enough.

Hmm this has me thinking!

Can anybody follow up on how they accomplished milling of the flange on the exhaust manifold? I just don't see where there is material to be removed here....
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You can see where the face of the manifold comes pretty much flush with that bulge where the bolts need to thread into... If you take off even 1/4 you'd be cutting into that bolt hole plus even if you are milling underneath the bottom of that bolt hole it still wouldn't fit flat against the exhaust ports because that bulged out area would hit the outside of the cylinder...

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Likewise, if you tried to trim some off of the exhaust port side of the connection, you can see the problem you'd have... Those exhaust "ramps" coming down out of the cylinder are angled in such a way that the ramp ends right at the ports on the face of the exhaust manifold. Milling the exhaust ports back towards the cylinders would mean you'd be milling backwards up the "ramp" and therefore the recessed ports would not mate evenly with the face of the exhaust manifold. This kind of misalignment would drastically effect volumetric efficiency and engine function.

So I'm kind of at a loss here... Where am I supposed to mill this extra space off?


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Location
Montana
Nuclear you reading everything correctly. Nothing about this is fitment is perfect. You can lose your volumetric efficiency by milling off material or you can lose your exhaust chamber volume by cutting up your pipe to make it fit. The only way to do it without messing with the motor is to blister out the hull. So I'm going with the milling process. I think I can get 3-3.5mm off both the manifold and cylinder. It will be close to the headpipe bolt on the manifold (real close) but it should be just enough for me to fit the pipe in the hull without any cutting on the hull itself.
 
Location
macomb
anyone ever put an 1100 in a js550 hull? lol. ive got a 800 in mine. actually started a hull build thread on it, but its just a hull build, not an 1100 conversion lol. id like to see it done-------- sorry about the thread jacking
 
Location
macomb
AND ID SAY DEFINETLY JUST CUT A HOLE IN THE HULL TO MAKE SPACE FOR THE EXHAUST MANI, FIBERGLASSING ISNT TOO DIFFICULT. take a block of foam, make a mold to fit into the hull, cut the hole out of the hole in the appropriate shape for the space needed, then just mix some resin and throw the fiberglass on. big deal, lol, id rather do that than loose engine performance ya know, not to mention u need a machine to mill the mani. fiberglass work maybe take u a day.
 
Location
Montana
The problem with the fiberglass is it will be below the bond line. So now you need tubbie sponsons on both sides and your gonna be cutting them up as well. Certainly more than a day project if you want to glass it correctly, sand, prep and paint.
 
I'm definitely not going to blister the hull for this motor. Not because I don't want to do glass work or don't know how, but because I think blistered hulls look like $hit in my opinion unless you hide it under sponsons, which, as heynagel noted would have to be cut up too. I'd rather the hull remain a multi-purpose, multi-engine vessel. I have this triple, a big pin, a small pin, and a hyperkickass small pin that's currently in it, and this is my only SX hull so I'm not gonna make it a "dedicated" triple hull.
Also, DO NOT mill the exhaust ports on the cylinders!!!!! NOOOOO NO NO
@heynagel I hope you haven't pulled the trigger on doing that yet... I do NOT recommend doing that at all... milling back on the port ramps, like I said, will have a TERRIBLE effect on volumetric efficiency. Think about the amount of turbulence it creates when you put a shelf right there for the exhaust gasses to jump over while decreasing the diameter that it can flow through. And more importantly, think about WHERE that turbulence will occur.... IMEDIATELY upon exit of the cylinder. A 2-stroke engine would be crippled by this. It would still run, but it will NOT be just a small loss of power, it would be dramatic. You'd literally be better off leaving the 750 in there.
Here's why....
By introducing turbulence to the exhaust flow immediately, you interrupt the sonic pressure wave that a 2-stroke depends on. That sonic wave is what creates the vacuum pulling the exhaust gasses from the cylinder. If the exhaust gas encounters immediate turbulence, the sonic wave will be disturbed and broken apart as soon as it hits the sharp edge of that "shelf" (for the same reason sharp angles are used in sound-proof surfaces; they break up coherent sonic waves. and vice-versa, why a tuba in a marching band is shaped with the same smooth flowing curves as a 2-stroke pipe, to amplify a coherent sonic wave).
If you disturb that wave immediately after it is created, you essentially render the expansion chamber useless. The whole concept of an expansion chamber is based on that coherent sound wave traveling through it. It is designed to expand and amplify the wave (think tuba) before reducing the volume of the chamber down to normal pipe diameter. This amplifies the wave and then causes it to bottle-neck and resonate backwards towards the cylinder until it impacts a much more dense volume of gas (the fuel-air mixture) coming into the cylinder at the same time the exhaust gasses are leaving. When this backwards-moving wave impacts the dense cloud of fuel, it essentially "pushes" it back into the cylinder to ensure that the maximum volume of fuel remains in the chamber as the piston closes over the exhaust port to begin compression. ALL OF THIS IS LOST IF THE SONIC WAVE IS LOST!!!

That means you might as well just lose the expansion chamber completely and just run normal tubing out of the manifold because it wont even have an effect anymore. And of course by doing that, you have a much quicker and easier solution for how to fit the pipe into the engine compartment anyway!! lol
bottom line is... DO NOT mill your exhaust ports!!!
 
yeah now im doing this conversion in an sx hull, i dont understand what to mill down, as of right now im going to mod the hull but if the other way is easier then hell..
 
Location
Montana
Here's a pic that I found that im kind of referring to when it comes to milling. Look at the headpipe in this pic and you can see where some material has been taken off. I must say though I don't know how much was milled off or if this will even work.
 

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you can only mill down about 1/2 inch before there isnt enough material left if that. but seriously, the 1100 motor barely fits in an sxr, the pipe touches the hull...soo good luck in any other hull. or try the 900 triple pipe.
 
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