Other 2 stroke motor fogging

ErieOne

Great Lakes
I've been checking out used SuperJets in my area to potentially purchase. When I've asked the owners about their winterization/storage procedures, a few of them mentioned they do not fog the motor because they store it in a heated garage all winter. I thought fogging is always recommended per the owners manual when storing and has nothing to do with the air temperature. I do understand that it is the fluctuations in air temperature that will cause moisture to condense inside the motor. So is this risk eliminated in a controlled, steady temperature? I would think for the minimal time and cost it takes to fog, then fog away! I've always fogged my skis for extended storage and the fact that this wasn't done to these skis (one a 2013 and one a 2016) makes me want to run the other way and look elsewhere.

What do you guys think? Thanks!


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I've been checking out used SuperJets in my area to potentially purchase. When I've asked the owners about their winterization/storage procedures, a few of them mentioned they do not fog the motor because they store it in a heated garage all winter. I thought fogging is always recommended per the owners manual when storing and has nothing to do with the air temperature. I do understand that it is the fluctuations in air temperature that will cause moisture to condense inside the motor. So is this risk eliminated in a controlled, steady temperature? I would think for the minimal time and cost it takes to fog, then fog away! I've always fogged my skis for extended storage and the fact that this wasn't done to these skis (one a 2013 and one a 2016) makes me want to run the other way and look elsewhere.

What do you guys think? Thanks!


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Personally fog my skis after every ride, regardless of whether it will be ridden next day or 6 months off, condensation can do a lot of damage on bare metal surfaces
 
Personally fog my skis after every ride, regardless of whether it will be ridden next day or 6 months off, condensation can do a lot of damage on bare metal surfaces
Same here fog it everytime at the end of riding and I hook up non- ethanol fuel pre-mix with a spare fuel line with a clunk added to it. I just pull the fuel line off the oem filter, it's easy.
 
Location
Ak
When a 2 stroke sits with any amount of moisture in it corrosion attacks any bare metal. Most common internal problem areas are wrist pin bearings and piston rings. When the rings sit stationary they will put a rust ring in the cylinder wall. The wrist pin bearings will pit and usually fail in short order. If you can’t fog the engine simply starting it and letting it run a few minutes will make it last a long time. Otherwise fog it. Lubrimatic fogging is the best in my opinion. I use it on everything including tools.
 

ErieOne

Great Lakes
Thanks! This is all what I believe and why I ask lots of questions before purchasing!

I couldn't find much info related to fogging and storing indoors so hopefully this thread can help others! Cheers!


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E350

Site Supporter
Location
Sacramento Delta
I say "whack stuff" and, am pretty inexperienced.

I will never fog our engines again. Until last year, I never fogged them, I just started them every month on the trailer to warm up the engines and, to my mind, evaporate any condensation/moisture out of the entire engine system.

In comparison, fogging does not force moisture out downstream of the exhaust manifold right?

Last year I fogged them at end of season and this Spring the '94 SN SJ wouldn't start. Carb needed to be rebuilt. Once you fog an engine. When you restart it, it in turn fogs the entire neighborhood. Which I didn't want to do, so I didn't restart it every month. I mean the bearings were already fogged right?

Well, IMHO, not starting a 2-stroke at least once a month is a mistake and just invites carb and other problems.

So, no more fogging for me.

But again, I don't keep our skis in snow country and . . . I say whack stuff.
 
If you only start it for a few seconds or minutes it’s not going to get warm enough to burn out any moisture and when it cools it’s just going to get condensation again. Not to mention all the moisture that stays in the waterbox and makes it’s way into the exhaust ports. Your only defense is a layer of oil. And fogging has nothing to do with your carb or it’s issues.
 
Location
Ak
I use Lubrimatic fogging oil available at Walmart of all places. Its the most expensive item in the whole store I think (joke). I have sprayed it on rusty tools and it will dissolve light corrosion. Spray in spark plug hole and down carbs then crank engine over to coat crank bearings and piston rings. Firing in the spring will blow a big smoke cloud but never fouls a plug. It just works great!


Otherwise just start ski and run it to coat moving parts with oil and move fuel in system. I always use stabil in fuel also. it works great too.

Any ethanol in fuel system is bad news for corrosion. Even on aluminum parts.
 
Location
dfw
It depends a lot on what premix you use, expensive racing oil is seldom good for storage . TCW3 does a good job as after run oil. Anymore I use it as premix at 30:1 and do a long blow out run on the trailer. I do it once at the lake and when I get home, the idea is to get rid of as much moisture as possible. I fully expect ANY older ski to have a rusty crank just because the likelyhood of it being put up wet is extremely high.
 
Location
Germany
I put some oil in the sparkplug hole, turn over the engine by hand and put some paper towel on top of the sparkplug hole.

As stated above, if the Jetski ist stored in a cold environment, don't start it to relube. Turn it over by hand add some more oil or fogg it.
Btw not all oils mix well with all brands of fogging oil.
 

E350

Site Supporter
Location
Sacramento Delta
kevbo: Maybe because the Sacramento Delta can get hot (it was 108-110F yesterday, maybe like dfw?) but when I replaced the crank seals on my wife's 1988 650cc X2 there was absolutely no rust on the crank whatsoever. I road it for two seasons prior. And it had sat for 15-20 years prior to that, under a tarp outside, through rain and shine. (flyHIgh, we don't have freezing temps in Sacramento.)

I never fogged it and, as far as I know, my wife never fogged it. I was using TCW3 Walmart 2-stroke oil back then at 40:1 ratio. I still do 40:1 ratio on all our skis, but am now using Klotz Jet Craft oil.

I always thought that the way that a crank bearing gets oiled in our 2-stroke engines is via the oil in the pre-mix. So, why would additional fogging oil be required? At least in a hot environment such as Sacramento?

And when I am starting the engines to warm them up and recoat with pre-mix oil at least once a month during the Winter?

The '94 SN SJ carb failed by leaking on the engine side. That diaphragm just disintegrated. I believe from ethanol 91 octane (even though I had put Stabil in the tank and ran it through the carb by running the engine before fogging).

To me "fogging" means engine sits, un-run, for months during the Winter.

To me "no fogging" means running the engine to warm at least once a month to oil the bearings with pre-mix and to evaporate any condensation (although I don't believe we have condensation in Sacramento simply because we don't have temperature swings which, I believe, would cause condensation to form).

I choose the latter "no fogging" method, but I am open to learning.

What do you think?
 
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Location
dfw
The premix coats everything and creates a barrier between the atmosphere and parts. It may not last long depending on the type of oil and amount moisture in the air. The exhaust system becomes a green house when there is water in it. The engine compartment does too when you leave the hood on with water in it. Outside storing creates temperature swings above and below the dew point. Everything gets wet on a daily basis inside and out, the oil film breaks down and corrosion begins.
 
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Location
Germany
TCW3 will have a longer lasting protective oil coating than some high performance 2 stroke oils. The fuel oil ratio plays also a role.
Humidity and cold climate are other factors. Just as the cooling water in your engine. Most skis can't be blown out to the point of no water in the exhaust/waterbox.
This trapped water can condensate and move thru the exhaust port into the engine. You can disconnect the waterbox over the winter. I prefer to just not start my jets during winter or a long break. If the engine and exhaust system gets hot you are likely to have some water condensate that was in the waterbox. Pull the plugs so the engine can breath put something over the holes so nothing falls in the engine. Especially if non TCW3 or marine grade oil is used put some oil in the cylinder and turn engine over by hand. While blowing out the engine after every ride. Keep the throttle open while you turn off the engine. For some extra lube.
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
I say "whack stuff" and, am pretty inexperienced.

I will never fog our engines again. Until last year, I never fogged them, I just started them every month on the trailer to warm up the engines and, to my mind, evaporate any condensation/moisture out of the entire engine system.

In comparison, fogging does not force moisture out downstream of the exhaust manifold right?

Last year I fogged them at end of season and this Spring the '94 SN SJ wouldn't start. Carb needed to be rebuilt. Once you fog an engine. When you restart it, it in turn fogs the entire neighborhood. Which I didn't want to do, so I didn't restart it every month. I mean the bearings were already fogged right?

Well, IMHO, not starting a 2-stroke at least once a month is a mistake and just invites carb and other problems.

So, no more fogging for me.

But again, I don't keep our skis in snow country and . . . I say whack stuff.
The ethanol most likely got your carbs, not the fogging. The diaphragms dried out.
 
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