Blaster 200 HP Carbon Fibre Blaster with 155mm Pump

C

Carbon Blaster

Location
Australia
zimmy said:
I like the bulk head work! are you buys making any plans to produce these at any point? Estimated cost on the carbon build once all is said and done?

I would love to see some video of this hull in action, I have seen some pics of it, but havent been able to find a video yet! Keep up the nice work!
Click to expand...
Thanks Zimmy, our initial idea was to build a ski for Gary & myself so we could mess in the surf on the weekends & have a carve on the river during the week, we never intended on producing.
When we posted the build for the 1st blaster, we kept getting emails from around the world from people that liked what we were doing & the mods to all the pieces that make up the complete hull/ski.
Many of these guys were keen for us to produce, so we changed our minds & will do a run of them.
We had to put the ski making on hold for a bit while we were designing & moulding our latest race car, once the car moulds are made we are going to make some blaster hulls at the same time as the carbon car panels.
We are nearly finished the car moulds, so will work out pricing for the blaster hull then.
The hulls won't be the cheapest things around as we only used the best carbon, kevlar & epoxy we could get.
We wanted the hull to be crazy light, still handle unreal & not get smashed around by the surf.
The only way to achieve that while greatly increasing it's strength was to use these higher quality materials & make the ski solid carbon/kevlar, not filling the middle with cheaper fibreglass.
We could still make a strong ski with fibreglass in the core, but we would have to go a thicker construction to get the strength, which means increasing the weight.
In regards to vids on either ski, we will certainly be doing that shortly.
 
zimmy

zimmy

Wow, it sounds like you know what you are doing! Is composite molding your profession ?

How do you think this hull will hold up to a big surf beating?

Its nice to see you guys putting so much effort and thought into the design, the pics on your build thread showed a lot of detail work during the build. Keep us posted! I am sure there will be a few buyers here in the states if you can work out a sipping deal!
 
C

Carbon Blaster

Location
Australia
zimmy said:
Wow, it sounds like you know what you are doing! Is composite molding your profession ?

How do you think this hull will hold up to a big surf beating?

Its nice to see you guys putting so much effort and thought into the design, the pics on your build thread showed a lot of detail work during the build. Keep us posted! I am sure there will be a few buyers here in the states if you can work out a sipping deal!
Click to expand...

Yes, composite moulding is my profession, also a 2-stroke race engineer, the two seem to work hand in hand together.
No problems in the surf, we posted a thread on ozfreeride about about different composites, resins, vac bagging, etc, which explained how the various materials worked in conjunction with each other.
In a nutshell: a 200gsm plain weave carbon & a 200gsm plain weave fibreglass both weigh 200gsm, but the fibreglass is many times more flexable than the carbon, so you would need multiple layers of fibreglass to have a similar rigidity as carbon.
These multiple layers make the fibreglass weigh more.
Hand laying or "wet layup" gives a very bad fabric to resin ratio, making it prone to cracking under stress conditions.
The excess resin is like a piece of glass that when you flex it too much it cracks or shatters.
Vacuum bagging (pre-preg or resin infusion) creates an environment that gives a dramatically better fabric to resin ratio, which is far less prone to cracking when put under stress.
The type of resin you use is very important, the main 3 types are:
Polyester Resin
Vinylester Resin
Epoxy Resin
Polyester is a budget resin designed for making a low stress product from a mould.
Vinylester is designed for high quality products made from a mould & for some repairs. This resin has good impact resistance.
Epoxy is designed for high quality products made from a mould, repairs & bonding. Some epoxies have high impact resistance. The main advantage is that epoxy is also a glue & besides wetting out the fabric it also bonds or glues the layers of fabrics together.
Epoxy reduces de-lamination, where other resins are prone to de-lamination under severe stress conditions, even though they have high impact resistance.
All types of resins are available in different levels of quality, just because something is made out of epoxy, doesn't mean that particular epoxy has high qualities.
Some epoxies can have up to 3 times the tensile strength as the other (especially if you have your resin made for your application), this means you can have less layers of carbon, but still have the same strength as a product made with a lower strength epoxy that has to use twice the amount of layers.
This obviously gives you a very strong, light product.
The disadvantage with these high grade epoxies is they are many times more expensive, need to be used under vacuum & need to be baked in the mould to acheive it's full potential.
 
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C

Carbon Blaster

Location
Australia
TR35.jpg
This is Jay doing some barrel rolling on the flat at the river with our 1st ski, this is around 130HP & 144mm pump, so really looking forward to what is acheivable with an extra 70+HP & bigger pump!
 
C

Carbon Blaster

Location
Australia
PIC_0089.jpgPIC_0090.jpg
Thanks for the great feedback guys!
Many people have the mis-conception that the grease nipple in the mis shaft housing is to grease the mid shaft bearing, this is not the case.
The nipple only pumps grease between the two rear seals & lubricates the lips of bothe these seals.
The bearing is a sealed bearing & is already pre-packed in grease.
This is a mod that I've done on every ski I've ever had, oil feeding the bearing!
The seals are removed from the bearing, the grease washed out, a spacer made to replace the middle seal & allow a greater volume of oil, grease nipple hole drilled larger & re-shaped internally, pulse line fitting replaces the grease nipple,
rear sealed turned around to keep oil in & an oil reservoir attached via fuel line to the pulse line fitting.
This mod is like having extra horsepower in your motor, it is far less drag for the motor on acceleration as well as less drag at full rpm.
It also makes your bearing last forever!
 
MADMAT

MADMAT

Location
Ohio
That is killer! I believe HBCWatercraft was doing that with his pumps too! He said you could spin them by hand super easy.....no resistance!

Man I want to that to my mid and pump when I get the 500.00 mag pump!

Thanks for the pics/info!
 
blaster800

blaster800

Location
sunbury ,ohio
This is a great oil mod to which I have already done to my prop bearing .......There was another mod similar to this somewhere on the X in which another hole is drilled and nipple attached into the top of the bearing housing allowing air to escape , then approx 6-10 inches of clear tubing that is connected from one nipple to the other ,fill with trannie fluid so its easy to see in the tube and dont forget to allow a bubble for expansion contraction of fluid .FWIW and BTW very nice build :)
 
C

Carbon Blaster

Location
Australia
blaster800 said:
This is a great oil mod to which I have already done to my prop bearing .......There was another mod similar to this somewhere on the X in which another hole is drilled and nipple attached into the top of the bearing housing allowing air to escape , then approx 6-10 inches of clear tubing that is connected from one nipple to the other ,fill with trannie fluid so its easy to see in the tube and dont forget to allow a bubble for expansion contraction of fluid .FWIW and BTW very nice build :)
Click to expand...
It's a mod I can't beleive more people don't do, it's like free horsepower!
We were going to oil feed the pump bearings on both blasters. Supplying oil to the pump has an even better effect than the midshaft, as the pump has 2 bearings & a greater volume of grease inside that has to be spun.
The ONLY thing that stopped us was we could not find a clear or transluesent cone so we could visually view the oil level. If we could not see the oil level, we could stuff an expensive pump if the front seals decided to leak while out for a ride.
Didn't want to keep having to remove the rear cone to check on oil level all the time.
Tried auto trans oil, but had better results (seals not leaking, bearing life) with motocycle racing gearbox oil.
Thanks for the input.
 
C

Carbon Blaster

Location
Australia
MADMAT said:
That is killer! I believe HBCWatercraft was doing that with his pumps too! He said you could spin them by hand super easy.....no resistance!

Man I want to that to my mid and pump when I get the 500.00 mag pump!

Thanks for the pics/info!
Click to expand...
Your mag pump should be cool, yeah the shaft does spin by hand when you do the mod to the midshaft housing & pump, especially after the seals are run in a little bit.
 
Tmart

Tmart

formerly superjet444
Location
Middle Georgia
Wow, I don't think I could comprehend seeing a blaster flatwater barrel roll and flip. Really cool build
 
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