- Location
- Annapolis, Maryland
I know your right the weight does bring it down a little. i just did that so i could show the left and right mis alignment.
Custom/Hybrid 2011 Rok build
- Thread starter MDStandUp
- Start date
I know your right the weight does bring it down a little. i just did that so i could show the left and right mis alignment.
- Location
- South Florida
Yeah, that only works if you are one of the chosen few. For the rest of us we just tinker and grind and shim and cuss and post threads to ask for ideas and then do the best we can. We also try to help each other out. Thank God for X-H2O!
- Location
- Annapolis, Maryland
yeah but its a double edged sword atleast for me. with the x i can figure out good ways to fix my problems. without the x id probably be still riding my sj and been totally happy with it not knowing anything different.
- Location
- South Florida
true. ignorance is bliss
- Location
- Annapolis, Maryland
Alright worked on it again today. Actually 4 of us did. Thanks Ed, Dave, and Brian.
Enlonged the pump holes and shaved the ears on the rear and the thing fits perfect with no shims needed. the pump is ready to go. though messing with the midshaft im easily able to pull the shaft right out of the housing. so that needs some love. got the engine shimmed, cleaned up the ebox, bolted up basically everything to make it a long block.
The problems.
1. the midshaft- is there a way to check to see if the bearing are in good working shape? what is missing that it just slides out? a snap ring?
2. what are people using as a longer throttle cable in these skis? where do i get it?
3. anyone know the size of the exhaust mani bolts?
4. anyone know the size of the smaller flywheel cover bolts?
Enlonged the pump holes and shaved the ears on the rear and the thing fits perfect with no shims needed. the pump is ready to go. though messing with the midshaft im easily able to pull the shaft right out of the housing. so that needs some love. got the engine shimmed, cleaned up the ebox, bolted up basically everything to make it a long block.
The problems.
1. the midshaft- is there a way to check to see if the bearing are in good working shape? what is missing that it just slides out? a snap ring?
2. what are people using as a longer throttle cable in these skis? where do i get it?
3. anyone know the size of the exhaust mani bolts?
4. anyone know the size of the smaller flywheel cover bolts?
steve-uk
Manners cost nothing
- Location
- Barrie - ontario
answer to question three is a SN throttle cable
steve-uk
Manners cost nothing
- Location
- Barrie - ontario
oh and jetmaniac has some custom cables for these style of skis too... longer than rn cable shorter than sn and his prices are good on them too
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/87419-MANIAC-Big-Bore-Throttle-Cable-29.&highlight=
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/87419-MANIAC-Big-Bore-Throttle-Cable-29.&highlight=
- Location
- Annapolis, Maryland
yeah just saw found that in my search. exactly what i need.
Buckwild12
I'm moved by DASA power!
- Location
- Chester, Maryland
Justin if you need a new bearing, I have one at my place. I also have one of the 3 grease seals that you need. Let me know if you need them. I can put it in for you, if you want, we have a press at work.
- Location
- Annapolis, Maryland
been a while since the last update on this thing. I lost my mine trying to chase down a electrical problem. you might have see the other thread. that is fixed and was all because im stupid and hooked the wires up backwards. anyhow, everything this is finished down to putting the registration stickers on, setting up a limiter rope, etc. is all finished BUT, 1. i got some pretty serious shakes at lower rpms. will idle fine but is pretty wild. 2. there is a pretty bad rattle somewhere. its just above the idle in rpms. 3. getting a hot midshaft. 10 sec at idle will cause it to be too hot to touch back by the housing. as i increase the rpms and isolate the vibration it doesnt heat up as much. dont know if this is allignment issues or vibration issues. so thats what i will be tracking down next.
what are your thoughts of not having grease in the midshaft area. what does it do? keep out water, lubricate (what would it lube), cool???
what are your thoughts of not having grease in the midshaft area. what does it do? keep out water, lubricate (what would it lube), cool???
- Location
- Stevensville, MD
Does the Rok have a flat firewall? Is it possible that the midshaft needs to be shimmed out? Wondering if the vibration is causing the carrier to hit the firewall and that's why it's heating up. I don't honestly know, but it's an idea.
sjetrider
615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
- Location
- in the 615 (Nashville)
THE BULKHEAD IS NOT FLAT. IT IS RECESSED FOR THE MIDSHAFT. Check the allignment again. Is it a new midshaft housing? That motor shakes more than a stock motor as well. Its the nature of the motor. But your midshaft should not be getting hot. Was your drive shaft straight out the hole in bulkhead and pump bolted down completely tight when you installed the midshaft? If so, did the midshaft slide on easilly and bolt right up without having to move it side to side or up and down? Is the motor lined up propperly? Did the rubber dampner move with little force inside the couplers when the motor was fully bolted down? It should.
is your driveshaft straight and the splines on bothe shafts in good condition? all things I would check. as for the raddle I would make sure the starter bendix is disengaging as well.
is your driveshaft straight and the splines on bothe shafts in good condition? all things I would check. as for the raddle I would make sure the starter bendix is disengaging as well.
- Location
- Stevensville, MD
So it's completely flat? LOL, kidding.
I know the engine was spot on, because we spent a solid hour getting it perfect. The shaft was also dead nuts on. The midshaft was JUST rebuilt. Worth checking, I agree, but it just doesn't seem like that should make it heat up.
I suggested he use a stethoscope to listen up front and see if it sounded like the bendix was stuck, or if that's where the noise was coming from, also.
- Location
- Annapolis, Maryland
alright got it running without the rattle. it ended up being the bendix. when i got it the bendix seemed to have some play. apparently the bendix got locked up in the past cause there was a nice grove in a side. ripped it out and put a new one and no more rattle. took it all down and realligned everything. the heat is still there but i decided to run with it. ran it today for the first time. what i thought was a really wrong blade chose isnt. any throttle over idle just cavitates and spins until i work it up to about 40% throttle. asking some other guys about what pitch to get they think its a airleak in the pump. not totally sure what is wrong now. this build is becoming a real pain in the ass. the heat said the same at idle but stayed a little cooler having water on the other side.
other than the issues i love the way the hull handles and feels. wish i could figure out how it jumps with some low end.
other than the issues i love the way the hull handles and feels. wish i could figure out how it jumps with some low end.
- Location
- Stevensville, MD
Justin check your pump seal and also what does your wear ring look like? I'm sure some of it is the prop too. 13/17 in a stock pump behind a 904 isn't gonna cut it in my opinion.
Buckwild12
I'm moved by DASA power!
- Location
- Chester, Maryland
I second that verdict. Race car engine on street tires.
X3
Also, you need grease on the splines of the driveshaft/midshaft to control heat and also to keep water out.