OK guys when moving the steering cable closer to the nozzle do I have to cut away some of its supports?? And I noticed that my pump has a factory trim its just locked into place by a tiny bracket.. and I get a cable and remove the bracket and utilize it??
2012 sj nozzle mod ???
- Thread starter lani
- Start date
SpaceCowboy
breaking something
- Location
- Ypsilanti Michigan
Why are you moving the steering cable closer? When you take that bolt out your nozzle will flip up?
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
You can move the Steering ball inward to increase turning speed......... The Trim Adjustment bar has nothing to do with steering. You can get a cable and rig up a trim system....
iangdesign
Cats, lots of cats!
- Location
- United States
That is what @Big Kahuna was saying in his post above your last. My SN was setup the same way.
- Location
- new jersey
Most guys will have an a/m bilge pump and utilize the stock bilge tube for their trim cable
- Location
- Minnesota
2008+ SJ Stock Turn Plate and Steering Nozzle Quick Steer Mod
Tools needed
1. M6 x 1.0 Tap
2. 5mm Drill
3. Dremel Tool & Dremel Cutter I used Dremel high speed cutter #196
4. File to clean up the support rib on the steering nozzle
Step one pop of your chin pad and remove the steering cable and the ball joint. The ball joint on the turn plate and the steering nozzle are both M6 x 1.0 threads.
Step two drill the outside cast hole in the turn plate with the 5mm drill and tap. Apply blue thread lock and reassemble the turn plate ball joint and re-install the steering cable. Turn plate mod done.
Step three remove the ride plate and steering cable. The steering cable nozzle ball joint has a 5mm hex slot in the ball end to remove it from the brass insert pressed into the steering nozzle. Remove the steering nozzle.
Step four use the dremel tool and the file to remove the excess material from the top and bottom rib of the steering arm from the steering nozzle to allow drilling and taping of the new ball joint mounting hole closer to the centerline of the steering nozzle.
Step five use the washer from the steering nozzle ball joint to mark where the new hole for the ball joint will be drilled. Once marked use the 5mm drill and 6 x1.0 tap to drill & tap the new hole.
Step six re-install the steering nozzle use thread lock.
Step seven check and center the steering alignment (bars centered nozzle straight) I was able to get things straight with only adjusting the nozzle end.
Step eight Install the steering cable using blue thread lock install the ride plate use blue thread lock.
Step nine make sure you are not bottoming out your steering cable or it will break over time and use. You should be able to easily remove the steering cable from the ball joint on the turn plate with the bars hitting the stop block and pressure applied to the bars.
Step ten see how this changes things. You will smile
View attachment 254551 View attachment 254552 View attachment 254553 View attachment 254554 View attachment 254555
Tools needed
1. M6 x 1.0 Tap
2. 5mm Drill
3. Dremel Tool & Dremel Cutter I used Dremel high speed cutter #196
4. File to clean up the support rib on the steering nozzle
Step one pop of your chin pad and remove the steering cable and the ball joint. The ball joint on the turn plate and the steering nozzle are both M6 x 1.0 threads.
Step two drill the outside cast hole in the turn plate with the 5mm drill and tap. Apply blue thread lock and reassemble the turn plate ball joint and re-install the steering cable. Turn plate mod done.
Step three remove the ride plate and steering cable. The steering cable nozzle ball joint has a 5mm hex slot in the ball end to remove it from the brass insert pressed into the steering nozzle. Remove the steering nozzle.
Step four use the dremel tool and the file to remove the excess material from the top and bottom rib of the steering arm from the steering nozzle to allow drilling and taping of the new ball joint mounting hole closer to the centerline of the steering nozzle.
Step five use the washer from the steering nozzle ball joint to mark where the new hole for the ball joint will be drilled. Once marked use the 5mm drill and 6 x1.0 tap to drill & tap the new hole.
Step six re-install the steering nozzle use thread lock.
Step seven check and center the steering alignment (bars centered nozzle straight) I was able to get things straight with only adjusting the nozzle end.
Step eight Install the steering cable using blue thread lock install the ride plate use blue thread lock.
Step nine make sure you are not bottoming out your steering cable or it will break over time and use. You should be able to easily remove the steering cable from the ball joint on the turn plate with the bars hitting the stop block and pressure applied to the bars.
Step ten see how this changes things. You will smile
View attachment 254551 View attachment 254552 View attachment 254553 View attachment 254554 View attachment 254555
- Location
- outer banks
just go by a cable from earlier year that is longer more throw faster turns but it cost more! but then u have it for when u upgrade stearing systeme
JGringo
When in doubt, Throttle-out.
- Location
- Lafayette, Louisiana
Stick with an X-Metal steering system on the handlepole. Infinite adjustment without fighting the nozzle. I wanted the same thing and just picked up their complete turn-plate and bars...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
JGringo
When in doubt, Throttle-out.
- Location
- Lafayette, Louisiana
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Location
- Pasadena, MD
There are four bolts that hold the pump assembly together. Remove the four bolts and the to going into the hull on the reduction nozzle.
- Location
- Eaton
I have a 2011 Superjet, what year cable should I buy 2007, see Pic. How will this improve the steering? Do I need any aditional parts to install?
Attachments
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
You will need to relocate the cable mount on the pole if I am not mistake. Contact Watcon or Jetmaniac, believe the both stock conversion kits.