bondra131
Thaat's braptaastic!
- Location
- Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Nozzle mod is blowsions bracket. I have one from my old ski. It mounts the cable closer to the inside of the nozzle and back further
Super Jet 2014 SJ steering
- Thread starter bondra131
- Start date
- Location
- Minnesota
Tools needed
1. M6 x 1.0 Tap
2. 5mm Drill
3. Dremel Tool & Dremel Cutter I used Dremel high speed cutter #196
4. File to clean up the support rib on the steering nozzle
Step one pop of your chin pad and remove the steering cable and the ball joint. The ball joint on the turn plate and the steering nozzle are both M6 x 1.0 threads.
Step two drill the outside cast hole in the turn plate with the 5mm drill and tap. Apply blue thread lock and reassemble the turn plate ball joint and re-install the steering cable. Turn plate mod done.
Step three remove the ride plate and steering cable. The steering cable nozzle ball joint has a 5mm hex slot in the ball end to remove it from the brass insert pressed into the steering nozzle. Remove the steering nozzle.
Step four use the dremel tool and the file to remove the excess material from the top and bottom rib of the steering arm from the steering nozzle to allow drilling and taping of the new ball joint mounting hole closer to the centerline of the steering nozzle.
Step five use the washer from the steering nozzle ball joint to mark where the new hole for the ball joint will be drilled. Once marked use the 5mm drill and 6 x1.0 tap to drill & tap the new hole.
Step six re-install the steering nozzle use thread lock.
Step seven check and center the steering alignment (bars centered nozzle straight) I was able to get things straight with only adjusting the nozzle end.
Step eight Install the steering cable using blue thread lock install the ride plate use blue thread lock.
Step nine see how this changes things.
Little Extra Protection… (this may not be needed if you can remove the cable from the turn plate at max throw both directions with no binding)
Steering stop mod. This will give you a 3.175mm (0.125) less travel on your steering cable 0.0625” 1.5875mm per side. This is such a small amount of steering sacrificed for me it was worth it not having to worry about breaking the stock steering cable with the cable on the outside most hole in the stock turn plate.
Material used:
1.) 1/16” x ½” aluminum flat stock. I had this laying around the garage you can pick it up at any home improvement or hardware store.
2.) Super Glue.
All I did was cut two sections of the aluminum stock 0.700” 17.75mm and glued them to the steering stop block. Now with the steering aligned I can easily remove the steering cable from the turn plate at max throw either way. There are now a few mm of safety factor in the steering cable. Why Yamaha went the 2.5” cable in 2008 I do not know. Only thing I can think of is that is what the FX-1 used so it went along with the FX-1 pole change in 2008.
1. M6 x 1.0 Tap
2. 5mm Drill
3. Dremel Tool & Dremel Cutter I used Dremel high speed cutter #196
4. File to clean up the support rib on the steering nozzle
Step one pop of your chin pad and remove the steering cable and the ball joint. The ball joint on the turn plate and the steering nozzle are both M6 x 1.0 threads.
Step two drill the outside cast hole in the turn plate with the 5mm drill and tap. Apply blue thread lock and reassemble the turn plate ball joint and re-install the steering cable. Turn plate mod done.
Step three remove the ride plate and steering cable. The steering cable nozzle ball joint has a 5mm hex slot in the ball end to remove it from the brass insert pressed into the steering nozzle. Remove the steering nozzle.
Step four use the dremel tool and the file to remove the excess material from the top and bottom rib of the steering arm from the steering nozzle to allow drilling and taping of the new ball joint mounting hole closer to the centerline of the steering nozzle.
Step five use the washer from the steering nozzle ball joint to mark where the new hole for the ball joint will be drilled. Once marked use the 5mm drill and 6 x1.0 tap to drill & tap the new hole.
Step six re-install the steering nozzle use thread lock.
Step seven check and center the steering alignment (bars centered nozzle straight) I was able to get things straight with only adjusting the nozzle end.
Step eight Install the steering cable using blue thread lock install the ride plate use blue thread lock.
Step nine see how this changes things.
Little Extra Protection… (this may not be needed if you can remove the cable from the turn plate at max throw both directions with no binding)
Steering stop mod. This will give you a 3.175mm (0.125) less travel on your steering cable 0.0625” 1.5875mm per side. This is such a small amount of steering sacrificed for me it was worth it not having to worry about breaking the stock steering cable with the cable on the outside most hole in the stock turn plate.
Material used:
1.) 1/16” x ½” aluminum flat stock. I had this laying around the garage you can pick it up at any home improvement or hardware store.
2.) Super Glue.
All I did was cut two sections of the aluminum stock 0.700” 17.75mm and glued them to the steering stop block. Now with the steering aligned I can easily remove the steering cable from the turn plate at max throw either way. There are now a few mm of safety factor in the steering cable. Why Yamaha went the 2.5” cable in 2008 I do not know. Only thing I can think of is that is what the FX-1 used so it went along with the FX-1 pole change in 2008.
Last edited:
- Location
- Minnesota
Sorry use blue thread lock.
bondra131
Thaat's braptaastic!
- Location
- Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
^perfectly done right there. I can't imagine anything more you can do with the oem parts. Thank you sir
bondra131
Thaat's braptaastic!
- Location
- Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
What's with this schmity cable?
- Location
- Minnesota
After ride report. I was driving a dump truck this made such a huge difference this is a must I you want to anything. I have not tried a pre 08 SJ so I do not have a baseline other than my 08. I can break the pump lose now and do power 180's now. I can actually do a set up wake now and not need 500 feet to set it up. Soo much better than the stock set up. All I can say is do this... If you don't have the cash in hand for a pile of parts.
makejetskiinggreatagain
Brandon
I need to do this.... and you just used the same stock cable right?
bondra131
Thaat's braptaastic!
- Location
- Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Yea same cable man. I can't wait to rig mine up. My old superjet had a nozzle mod and aftermarket steering. Older oem steering is a bit better plus I had all the mods so it was just quick as shonet I could flat water 180 nose stab and 360 off small waves... So this 2014 is killin me lol I can get the pump to break loose and spin the ski on water but can't do nose stabs... It's bunk
- Location
- Minnesota
Yes I am using the stock everything. I did check to steering cable and it is at max throw now. There are a few mm of excess left but that is all. Just make sure that when you hit the stop on the turn plat that the cable is not bottoming out mine is close but I do not think I am stressing it. I will keep you posted but I can tell you I will never go back.
makejetskiinggreatagain
Brandon
well I may wait a month or so and see how your cable is still doing then lol. would you have more throw if you only tapped the steering plate and left the nozzle alone? or would that make it worse?
Last edited:
- Location
- Minnesota
If you want to play it safe just do the nozzle. This will not require any additional cable throw it will just move the nozzle faster. Doing the turn plate will give more throw and faster throw being farther from the center of the turn plate. I think this is how it is working.
- Location
- Minnesota
All I can tell you it made the ski a lot more fun to ride. I liked it stock. It is so much better now.
- Location
- Minnesota
I had to center the steering last night as well. This will change your bar alignment. I added that step to the list to save peeps time in the future
- Location
- Chelmsford, MA
Just did the steering plate half of this and I was surprised how much of a difference. Really improved steering. Going to do nozzle now as well.
bondra131
Thaat's braptaastic!
- Location
- Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
I rode a 2010 today and all the guy did to it was a Blowsion turn plate and it was only connected to the first hole. Could have it one or two holes out further and it was still way better than my stock set up. So aftermarket turn plate does help a lot. And Blowsion told me that it won't help.... Ha wow
bondra131
Thaat's braptaastic!
- Location
- Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
So threading that outer hole on the oem turn plate and drilling a hole as close to the inside of the nozzle to mount the cable in is absolutely amazing! Way better. Huge difference. Ski turns way better and is worthy of 180's and 360's off of waves. Sweeeet